Step 4: Building the Clock Housing

To see more information about the V90 CNC machine that was used to build the housing have a look here.

The case was created using multiple layers of 1/2 inch MDF. There’s a front piece that has the actual Simpson 260 multimeter details v-carved into it. This is followed by 4 center spacer pieces and finally a back piece that has the hanging teardrop cutout.

The front piece was primed and painted with Krylon black paint before getting the details routed into it. All the other pieces were just routed in the CNC machine from raw MDF. I could have saved lots of wood if I built the sections from two pieces since the large center space in my design is wasted space but I decided to do it this way so that there will be no joints in the spacer pieces.

The black painted surface of the meter face was covered with contact paper then the details which will eventually be white were v-carved through the contact paper into the MDF. This provides a way of easily painting the fine white details using a spray gun.
<p>Nicely written Instructable and great clock.</p><p>I purchased a kit of parts from Alan's site and built my own take on his clock.</p><p> I had PICBasic Pro version 3 so modified Alan's code to run it and also added synchronisation to the DCF77 &quot;atomic&quot; clock via my master Clock system.</p><p> more info on my site here </p><p><a href="http://home.btconnect.com/brettoliver1/Voltmeter_Clock/Voltmeter_Clock.htm" rel="nofollow">http://home.btconnect.com/brettoliver1/Voltmeter_C...</a></p>
<p>This is a fantastic project nice job :)</p><p>Q: why are you using two chip sockets?(see step 2 photos)</p>
Great idea - I'm going to give this one a go as well.. <br>I second in asking what software was used to draw up the schematic..
What software did you use to draw this schematic?
Owww, wonderful idea, great build! Thumbs up!
Hey, Excuse the noobish question, but your setting is .5 mA, so the max, when it's set on it, is .5 mA showing on the scale? <br> <br>I have access to ammeters that have a non-changible scale that goes to 20 mA, can the kit run this?
What a great idee!
this is too cool
Why does the first meter say sunMa while the others are sunWa?
What? You have never made a mistake either?
LOL, I never noticed that before. I am thinking that the 2nd and 3rd are SunMa knockoffs. :)
LOL. I never noticed that before! That represents the quality of these meters I got, I should have spent more money on them. :)
I have one just like it except the colors around the dial are white, green, and red. Also, mine says MODEL instead of Sun(W/M)A, but it does say &quot;YX-1000A&quot; on it...
Nice project! Excellent work.
Thanks. :)
That's a pretty cool device, I'm sure the steampunk sorts would love to make a version of it somehow, but as it is, I like it... :)

About This Instructable


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Bio: You can see my blog here: http://hackedgadgets.com and my personal site here: http://alan-parekh.com
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