Introduction: Mustang Leather Tool Roll

Picture of Mustang Leather Tool Roll

If you are on this site looking for things to make then you probably have sets of tools lying around or getting carried away by your 2 year old and stuffed in the bottom of a toy box or the oven compartment of their PlaySkool Kitchen set. A few months ago I made this tool roll that I quickly fell in love with and figured I would share the project with you. As you can see from the picture above the original sleeve that came with this particular set of graduated wrenches dated back to the sixties and weathered as well as Keith Richards; very tattered around the edges but holding on to life like a champ. I used the original sleeve as a template but made a slight alteration by ditching the hanging grommets at the top corners and including a flap and buckle closure.

Step 1: Sizing the Panels

Picture of Sizing the Panels

For this project I used a "Mustang" hide. Now don't go crazy thinking I turned Sea Biscuit into a tool roll. Every tannery has ways of tanning ordinary cow hide to make it look similar to the hides of other animals. There is also a "Kodiak" hide made to look like brown bear and a Buffalo hide that...well...that one is actually buffalo. This "Mustang" hide is a garment hide used to make things like leather jackets, chaps, and satchels worn by the likes of Indiana Jones himself. I cut a panel 24" x 48" which would be used for the main body, inner panels, and flap, Using the tallest wrench as my upper height limit I laid it in the middle third of the panel on the far right side and folded the bottom third up to a point within 4 inches from the top of the wrench head. At this point I laid the plastic wrench sleeve from my template on top of the leather and scratched a line all the way the diagonal to the far left. This created a sleeve that would be equidistant from the top of the smallest wrench to the largest. I did the same thing for the smallest group of wrenches in the upper left corner of the roll. I then cut the bottom flap from the main body to create two distinct inner panels. I brought the flap down to make sure it lined up properly with the bottom, and since I always measure twice and cut once, it did.

Step 2: Lining and Punching

Picture of Lining and Punching

The next few steps are the longest in the project. These tools won't just keep themselves in place without your help. If it was plastic we were working with we could just glue them or heat weld them together to form pockets, but then some yahoo would be sitting in his office chair 74 years down the road thinking words onto his bendy plasma glasses trying to show you how he is improving on a flawed design. Everything I do is hand stitched. If you have been following the stuff I have been putting up here over the last few days you are probably already sick of hearing about it, but that's not going to stop me from saying it again. Hand stitching is the only way to make sure something lasts forever. They are still pulling stuff out of the ice that cavemen made out of leather at the dawn of civilization that is still holding together. I try to make stuff that you want to be buried with and the kids get to fight over the shovel.

I digress. In order to stitch the inner panels properly to the main body we have to make sure the wrenches are aligned in a 90 degree perpendicular orientation (straight up and down) from the bottom edge of the main body panel and spaced properly to accommodate the canted socket end at the bottom. The good thing is that even if you don't space it exactly right, this pre-oiled garment leather is very forgiving and will loosen up with the proper application of brute force and ignorance.

Once the spacing and alignment are set press the leather around the tools to form an impression on the leather. Remove the wrenches and, if you have one, use your 90 degree ruler to score a line between each wrench impression (straight up and down) from the bottom. Before you start flailing around with your mallet like you're playing whack-a-mole it helps to secure your panels first to prevent them from moving around during the process. I set rivets in the corner of each inner panel. This also adds strength and stability when the tools are repeatedly removed and replaced during the life of the roll. From there you can take your thonging chisel, awl, or ice pick and poke holes through the inner panels and main body panel. This is ultimately how you will stitch the whole thing together.

Step 3: Punchin' and Stitchin'

Picture of Punchin' and Stitchin'

After your holes are punched in both inner panels and your rivets are set it is time to snitch cuz snitches get stitches and you're gonna be doing a lot of stitches. If you do this right there are roughly a thousand stitches in this thing. As always I use two harness needles, braided and waxed nylon thread, and a figure eight stitch. It is a rock solid stitch that will never fail you. How you stitch each line is up to you. I use one 15 foot length of thread and start in the corner. I run one leg up a line and back down to the bottom where it meets up with the other leg and work my way over to the next vertical line where the one leg takes a trip north and south and the left leg just keeps moving forward. I do this because I hate knots in my work. Knots are a point of failure and if I can minimize knots then I increase the strength of the product and reduce the chances that the knot will work it's way loose and 25 pounds of tempered steel wrenches introduce themselves to the soft, pink, tender flesh of your toes as you try to fix your serpentine pulleys while wearing your Mario Battali edition Crocs. It takes FOR-EV-ER, but it is worth it. You will never have to repair that stitch. When you get to the end of the line and you have stitched yourself dizzy then all that is left is to tie it off in a good knot ( I prefer a double square knot, but it's up to you), trim the excess thread, and burn the knot slightly to melt the wax and nylon together in a hot little ball of napalm. Now take a minute to pat yourself on the back before you realize you still have to stitch the small panel up above.

Step 4: Strap It Up

Picture of Strap It Up

I used a buckle strap to close it up. I cut a strap about 12 inches long and punched a oblong hole for a buckle about 4 inches from the end. I set the buckle in the strap and rivet the short end to the main body panel half way between the top inner panel and the bottom inner panel. This way, when I roll it up from the largest wrench to the smallest the strap can wrap around the roll and buckle securely. I will come back and add some photos of that process later. I did not have this site in mind and I made that strap up on the fly at the end. Well there you have it. As always I appreciate you reading this far without bouncing your head off the keyboard. There will be more of these on the way.


paolobertoncin (author)2016-11-17

great job .... I need one too


3366carlos (author)2016-01-17

super awesome, very expensive too. What thickness of leather? And where did you get the leather? Thanks.

bratasaur (author)3366carlos2016-05-11

You can get leather for a great price at sporting goods stores that process dear or elk. They are not full sized skins but cheap and you can look through to find the one or four you like.

gavinh6 (author)2015-07-13


tony.fantasia (author)2015-04-07

Hey Everyone! I'm sorry for being tardy to the party, but I have had a lot going on lately. Got laid off and started a new job in the middle of kicking off two very big projects (new business and Non-profit). I am just now getting to the point where I can breathe again and as soon as I do I will record the video showing the stitch on this roll. I appreciate your interest and your patience.

Thanks again


cwilson1 (author)tony.fantasia2015-04-14

Thank you Tony! By the way. Gorgeous job on the roll! I am now contemplating all my favorite hand tools I want to include in my own roll haha. A video of the stitching process would be great, do you leave slack in the figure eight, or crank each "eight" down? What weight leather did you use? And how did you get that nice "formed wrap" around each box end wrench, heat? Blood sweat and tears? Did you use an overstitch wheel for the holes? So many questions! An answer to any would be greatly appreciated. You sir, have inspired many to start their own attempt at bad ass leathercraft. Great job Tony!

claudio21 (author)2014-11-09

Can you please do an instructable on the stitch?
Great post. I hope mine turns all right

tony.fantasia (author)claudio212014-11-09

once the dust settles I will get back into Instructible mode and do one on the stitch for you.

Any chance you can do an instructable on the stitch yet? This tool roll rocks, but before I dedicate some leather to it, I'd like to know how to do the indestructible stitch you pontificate about. Sounds like a feat in and of itself.

Sundevildaddy (author)2014-12-05

Love it Tony, Thank You for the share. Definitely one I will be using.

bambuino (author)2014-10-25

Whoa, I cringe at the idea of destroying a leather jacket, as mentioned here. Where I live, everyone loves leather sofas, and occasionally they appear on curbsides for bulk item pickup. In one weekend I got about 4 yards of leather just driving around my neighborhood, walking to the store, &c. I always carry a pocket knife, and rarely skip an opportunity to skin a sofa. Its the back panel of the sofa you want, the part up against the wall usually, the low traffic area.These make good tool roll materials.

bambuino (author)bambuino2014-10-27

Just to mention a technique I use that others may find useful. The blade from a hand plane makes a nice tool for skiving down an edge, which is moistened, formed over, and placed in a press. Soon enough a finished edge not much thicker than the hide itself can be sewn. There is like a leather work contest going on I think? Just thought to share. I made something "tool roll-ish" while back and finished the interior with another material under the leather hem.

Dream4real (author)2014-10-22

For inexpensive leather, I've always managed to find old purses or jackets at garage sales. It might be tough finding anything large enough for this type of project, but it's a thought.

tony.fantasia (author)Dream4real2014-10-22

That's the trick, but it is a great idea. Nothing says it has to be one piece. I kinda like the patchwork look.

steve76063 made it! (author)2014-10-22

Hmmm, I thought I'd posted a reply, but when I looked it wasn't here :(
Earlier this year, I made something similar to replace the cheap plastic holder for a set of Harbor Freight metric wrenches. I used some left over Naugahyde and Denim, and I embroidered the sizes on the denim before I stitched it together. Here's what my version looks like:

tony.fantasia (author)steve760632014-10-22

Sorry about that. After reading it I felt like I was being defensive so I erased it. I never intended for any certain type of material to be used for this project and I really like what I am seeing from everyone. There seems to be an issue over the price of the material I chose for this project, but it was a commissioned piece and that was what they wanted. I love your pouch. I have never used Naugahyde before. It looks great with the denim and wrench sizes. How long did it take you to make it?

oilitright (author)2014-10-21

For those of you who spit coffee out of their mouth and nose, as I did, when they read the price one might need to pay for a chunk of leather (up to) $238.99 may I suggest an alternate material.

I've made several tool rolls over the years and for me good strong canvass has worked well. There are a couple other Instructables available here. And even denim if you have trouble stitching heavy canvas. Most home sewing machines will sew denim, just but a needle for denim.

I wonder if a person found a suitable old leather jacket that it might be re-purposed?

tony.fantasia (author)oilitright2014-10-21

I like the idea of re-purposing the leather jacket. I am going to try that.

I checked out the link to a certian leather retailer all over the page and saw leather that would work for a lot less than 238.99.

tony.fantasia (author)oilitright2014-10-21

I understand the sticker shock. When I first started I could never afford that kind of stuff. After a couple years when my skills got better I was able to start selling pieces and that adds up pretty quick. Also, Tandy has other excellent leathers at lower prices and many in smaller quantities. You can certainly do this project with a variety/combination of materials. Canvas and leather always looks great and I think denim with a leather strap would look cool as well.

sbendor (author)2014-10-21

Hi Tony: Great post and fabulous sense of humor!

tony.fantasia (author)sbendor2014-10-21

Thanks a bunch. If you can't have fun with your work whats the point in doing it ;) I appreciate your support.

tomatoskins (author)2014-10-20

I've been wanting to make this for a little while. I've had some chisels without a case for some time. Your 'ible pushed me in the right direction. Throw in some inexpensive suede, thread, and a few hours, and this is what came out.

Very nicely done!! It has a great look to it and it looks very well made. I have no doubt this will last you a good long time. I am glad you found your direction and I am thrilled that I was a part of the push in the right direction. I'm going to be checking out your stuff now. Thanks for sharing your project with me. That means a lot.

Thanks! You do great work!

Gannicus (author)2014-10-18

You said you bought this from Tandy, do you have a link? Because it doesn't look like they carry anything called Mustang. Thanks!

tony.fantasia (author)Gannicus2014-10-18

They discontinued the Mustang a little while back If you look for the Kodiak you would get a hide that is very very close. I am told the tanning methods vary by region, so even if you can find it in one place you may not find it in all of the stores. I am still trying to figure out how and why Tandy does things. Every time I find a hide or a stain I really like using it gets discontinued. I know they base their decisions on more opinions than just my own, but still. Follow this link to the Kodiak:

Gannicus (author)tony.fantasia2014-10-18

Tony...first, thanks for taking the time to reply! Second, AWEEESSSSOME work, and thanks for all the info.

Since I've never bought leather for projects like this before, ( I have purchased vegetable tanned leather for axe covers etc ) when it says the price is $238, does that mean you must buy the ENTIRE piece for that price? And, it says it is 22 - 24 sq feet...does that mean I'm buying a giant piece roughly 6' x 4'???


tony.fantasia (author)Gannicus2014-10-19

Hey Gannicus. That is correct. It is a bit expensive to buy some of these materials, but you can do a lot with that much material and if you are careful with your cuts you can earn a good bit of coin. I am in the process of building an Instructable showing a messenger bag that I made with this stuff and it can sell for between $250 and $400 depending on how many of the details you add. It's a good investment and projects like these can double or triple that investment very quickly.

HAL 9000 (author)2014-10-17

Why is this not in the Leather Goods contest? Enter it, and you'll have my vote!

tony.fantasia (author)HAL 90002014-10-17

Hey there! I just checked and it's in there. When I clicked on the entries link it was on the top row on the right. I appreciate your vote.

ragul548 (author)2014-10-17

The only thing missing is where did you get the hide?

tony.fantasia (author)ragul5482014-10-17

Good point. Sorry about that. I buy all my hides from Tandy Leather Factory. There are other places like Springfield Leather that sell hides, so feel free to Google it, but I have a Tandy store ten miles from my house so I always just go there. They do internet sales and ship to pretty much anywhere around the world. This particular hide is oiled and prefect for this kind of project.

CurtosNoirDesign (author)2014-10-17

Hurray!!! This is awesome

Thank you Sir. I appreciate the inspiration. When are we going to get together to work on that card case for your wife?

Mielameri (author)2014-10-16

Now this is a seriously awesome upgrade for wrench storage. It would also be cool to stamp the wrench size into each sleeve

tony.fantasia (author)Mielameri2014-10-17

That is a fantastic idea. The next roll I do I am stealing this idea, bit you get full credit

JerryD1 (author)2014-10-16

if i read correctly, you used plastic for the inner pockets. wont the plastic eventually crack and break? what kind of plastic did you use - looks like leather. could a thinner piece of leather be used or would it be too bulky and stretchy? good project and one i'm going to want to attempt once i see your stitching technique training. thanks, jerry

tony.fantasia (author)2014-10-16

Hey there. Sorry for the confusion. I used the plastic wrench sleeve from the original pouch as a template to create the same thing out of leather just so I could make sure I had the correct shape for the panel and general dimensions for the wrenches themselves. Everything is cut from the same piece of leather. I will record the video for hand stitching this weekend.

weezzel13 (author)2014-10-16

I would love to see an instructable about how you and the cavemen hand stitch. (with a lot of pictures maybe even a video :). I am overly visual leaner. I plan on making one of these so my kid can loose all of my wrenches at once instead of only one at a time.

This is a great piece. I hope my project turns out half as well.

tony.fantasia (author)weezzel132014-10-16

Thank you very much :) I appreciate your interest. I will get my cavemen together and get that video made for you. If you follow my page I think you get notified when I post new stuff. I'll try to get that out in the next day or two. Make sure you share a picture of your project with me. I would love to see what you do.

warehouse32 (author)2014-10-16

Nice job! I have way too many loose tools hanging around..this is one of the classiest ways i've seen to organize them. Keep up the good work!

seamster (author)2014-10-16

Yes indeed, another great post!

Your photos are great, and your writing style is quite entertaining. Keep it up!

tony.fantasia (author)seamster2014-10-16

Thanks again! I'm glad you like it. I have fun with this and I'm glad it is as entertaining to you to read as it is for me to write :)

seamster (author)tony.fantasia2014-10-16

Oh yeah, this is a great place for maker-types to share and interact. I love it. The community is so friendly and supportive!

tony.fantasia (author)seamster2014-10-16

I agree. You can't go wrong around people who have a genuine interest in learning something new every day

seamster (author)seamster2014-10-16

And I just have to ask, did that customer reciprocate your feelings?

tony.fantasia (author)seamster2014-10-16

They certainly did. The project was commissioned by a gentleman who wanted to pass his tools down to his grandson who is a diesel mechanic. It exceeded his expectations to say the very least.

seamster (author)tony.fantasia2014-10-16

"a customer of mine that I quickly fell in love with"

That's the line I was referring to... did the customer fall in love with you in return?

Ha, bad joke. I know. :D

tony.fantasia (author)seamster2014-10-16

Good catch! That's what happens when you write these things at 3am. It sounded better in my head.

About This Instructable




Bio: I started working with leather in order to replace a wallet. It became a hobby that became a passion that became therapy that is turning ... More »
More by tony.fantasia:Mustang Leather Tool RollTomahawk Sheath, haft wrap, and belt holsterKnife Sheath Mod
Add instructable to: