Step 8: Create the Arduino shield

If you want you can buy a card that is already ready, but it is very simple and useful to make it at home.

Cut a piece of prototyping PCB exactly the width of the pins on the card.

Sold only the strips those that correspond exactly to the pins we're going to use: Pin0 to Pin13- Analog 0-4-5- 5v- GND

The position of the pins can change, depending on the card we're going to use, Arduino, Luigino and so on, but the goal is clear.

Once you have made the shield, you will have more space to sold each wire on the corresponding pin.

Will also be much more convenient to leave the Arduino connected on the back (see later) only by detaching the shield if you do the maintenance in.

Go on!
<p>Do i need to steal a supermarket basket? :) haha</p>
<p>I finally made it... with some small modifications, and I credited your Instructable.</p><p>http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Binary-Clock-2/</p>
Great job! Very nice. Thanks for sharing
<p>I am trying to do a simulation before making this to make sure I am doing it right, but the leds keep blinking no matter what I do. Right now I don't have the hour and min leds given that they really don't need coding. <a href="http://123d.circuits.io/circuits/559138-binary-metric-clock" rel="nofollow">http://123d.circuits.io/circuits/559138-binary-met...</a> Just click &quot;start simulation&quot; </p>
<p>I made it after your good instruction. I made also a small circuit for the atmega 328. I soldered the led the other way, cathode (negative -short leg) to GND and the anodes (positive-long leg) to the to digital pins, didn&rsquo;t read carefully, so I had to switch digitalWrite in the sketch.</p>
Grazie. gentilissimo! E complimenti per i tuoi progetti di orologi. Sono bellissimi.
ciao, non mi &egrave; chiaro&quot;a layer of gray and a white matt&quot; te lo chiedo in italiano perch&eacute; in inglese non ho capito :-(. <br>Sono due ulteriori strati? Quello bianco &egrave; la carta da disegno opaca, mentre quello grigio?<br>grazie
Ciao<br>In sostanza devi fare in modo di evitare che la luce dei led si &quot;diffonda&quot; e si concentri solamente solo sulla lettera da illuminare. Per ottenere questo io ho adottato del bianco opaco, che limita la diffusione, e uno o pi&ugrave; strati di grigio che smorzano l'intensit&agrave;, fai le prove comunque. A presto
that is really beatiful, I made it, but I have some problems with the software. effectively, my clock is low, I lost 7minutes in 3days! have you a solution? have you modified the soft? thx for all
<p>The loop is losing time. Imaging that lastTick is on 901 and the next loop() doesn't come around for 101 ms, then you'll be at 1002ms by the time you reach the if condition. What happens to the 2ms? They are lost. It can be even worse; you are at 999ms and the next time takes 101ms, you would end up at 1100ms, losing a whole 100ms!</p><p>Also, since you are calling millis(); twice in the original, there is a chance that the second call is further forward than the first comparison. </p><p>Try this fix:</p><p>int temp = millis();<br>if (temp - lastTick &gt;= 1000) {<br> lasteTick = temp;<br> second++;<br>}</p>
<p>I saw online that when creating a clock this is &quot;normal&quot; because of voltage difference and things like that... there is a &quot;Real Time Clock&quot; module that exists that makes sure that the time stays accurate, I don't know how it works exactly, but it could fix your problem... but hopefully you fixed your problem in the last 2 years ;)</p>
Hi<br>Ty for reply<br>No, i'm sorry, as explained there is a version 12 hours and at 24, I used the version in 24 hours and is perfect. <br>Sometimes there can be problems if there are changes in Arduino voltage double check if the power supply is ok.
Thx for responding so fast! <br>My power supply is 12V for my arduino, but I don't know how it can be the problem? <br>you have no delay problems on yours? <br>excuse me, I'm french, and my english is not fluent! <br>May be I can see inside the following boucle to send lasTick by serial port. <br>&quot;if (millis() - lastTick &gt;= 1000) { <br> lastTick = millis(); <br> second++;&quot; <br>Like that, I'll see if it is really 1000 between two values. <br>
&gt;&gt;Thx for responding so fast! <br>I'm in Italy, yours email comes faster here....;-)<br><br>&gt;&gt;you have no delay problems on yours?<br>No, i'm sry<br>I told you about power supply is important because it is stabilized by 7 to 12 volts, power surges can cause delays.<br><br>
Great, it looks like a bought clock
Can u explain about micro switch connection between led and arduino
Hi<br>All i think has explained above. What isn't clear? All the micro switch have two pin, one is connected to an Analog pin of Arduino (see what) and one to GND. If you have a question again let me know. Thanks<br>Regards<br>
ok ok thanks.......i also have problem with opening the code file
Is a web site problem, if you have installed Arduino IDE correctly try to rename the file as .ino or .pde , the last methods is to copy and past the text into an arduino clear sketch<br>Regards
thanks for your help problem has been solved
Whether v need to connect the switch with pull down resistor as given in this page <br> <br>http://arduino.cc/it/Tutorial/Button
not necessary in this case isnt the same like your tutorial
Nice! I can see that you have successfully completed your project.
Yeah<br>Thanks for the advice, I just tried to do something that is also visually beautiful.
Hey, I built a new version of my clock, be sure to check it out.<br><br>http://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Binary-Clock-20/
That is a beautiful rendition of a LED clock - I love the care you have taken in making it.<br><br>:-)
Never like yours, I can improve .. thanks
that is&nbsp; great and thanks for sharing--<a href="http://www.belouisvuitton.com"><strong>replica louis vuitton</strong></a>
Really beautiful, and much easier to read than I thought it would.
Thanks very kind

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