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My Arduino WordClock

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Picture of My Arduino WordClock
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Step 1: The Materials

Picture of The Materials
The list of materials for the board depends on how you plan to make the electronics, if you want an Arduino standalone or an Arduino UNO or 2009, however, this is what I used.

Step 2: 1) The Materials- LED and resistor

Picture of 1) The Materials- LED and resistor
To realize the proposed scheme are needed:
98 White LED
98 Resistor 470 ohm
Why 470?
I chose these resistors for this reason:
LED (ultrabrightness white)  http://www.robot-italy.com/product_info.php?products_id=421 forward v is 3,3v and 25ma
,the clock will run to 9v and i want that the led will be drived at half current 12,5ma (no needs too much brightness), so:

(9-3,3)/0,0125= 456, correct misure is 470 ohm resistor.

Step 3: 2) The Materials -Standalone Arduino

Picture of 2) The Materials -Standalone Arduino
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On the web and on Instructables  you will find several examples , these are the materials I used for my own PCBs, I plan to switch directly the ATMega 328 bootloader included  with that my own Arduino UNO.

-2 ceramic capacitor 22pF
-quartz 16 mhz
-2 elettrolitic capacitor 100 nF
-5v regolator voltage 78L05
-1n4007 diode

Step 4: 3) The Materials - Integrated

Picture of 3) The Materials - Integrated
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3- HCF4094 shift register
4- ULN2003A Driver
ATMega 328 with bootloader

Step 5: 3) The Materials - other electronic part

Picture of 3) The Materials - other electronic part
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-2 micro button to set hours and minutes
-a supply voltage coaxial connector
-a flat wire 26 wire with connector
-two-pole connector

Step 6: 4) The Materials - remainder

Picture of 4) The Materials - remainder
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-IKEA Ribba frame
-carboard light, color you want to make passpartout
-cartonboard thicker to make LED holder

Step 8: Holes guide

Positive mask to help to do the holes in a led holder
I've used a a drill with a bit of 5mm
IKEA frame with inside lucid paper with word printed through a laser print (four lucid together are need to have a solid color black).

dcgchico1 month ago
Hi
You have calculated 470 Ohm resistor: (9-3,3)/0,0125=456 -> 470 Ohm

If you are using a voltage regulator so you have 5V, why don't you calculate (5-3,3)/0,0125=136->270Ohm?

Thanks
Cello62 (author)  dcgchico1 month ago

Because, how you have calculated in the first formula, it works at 9v or 5v, and then its better to use 470 ohm for safety. Regards

celineabbey6 months ago
hi can i know the source code, we need this because for our thesis in the school. thanks
Cello62 (author)  celineabbey6 months ago
Hi. The source code is avaible into the instructable at the end bye.
dcgchico Cello622 months ago
I don't find the source code :-(
Cello62 (author)  dcgchico2 months ago

Look better. At the end of Step 15. Regards

5437815 months ago
Hi, i can't find out PCB. Can you share me PCB, plz? Thanks
Smtty0910 months ago
The picture of the elctro capacitor is 100 microfarrad but you have speced a 100 nF. Which one works? Thanks
Cello62 (author)  Smtty0910 months ago
Hello, is a font problem sry, 100 microfarrad. Regards
ritzanab11 months ago
how much are the materials all together?
Cello62 (author)  ritzanab11 months ago
Hi. Never done total amount sry, but not too expansive regards
anachum1 year ago
Hi,
It came out beautiful !
which program did you use for the ATMEG?
I don't see RTC? can you tell me which sketch you have in this clock?
tnx
Amos
Cello62 (author)  anachum1 year ago
Hi. The sketch file is linked in the instructables, please see all pages., it is an arduino project. Regards
F_Elite1 year ago
Hello,

I think there should be more information here. How do you attach the wires from the PCB to the LEDs correctly?
Cello62 (author)  F_Elite1 year ago
You have to read better. There is a schematic diagram, and a photo of a 26 wires connector, one wire/one word, vcc, and so on. Thanks
Ok, fine, and do I need to put any code on the ATmega 328 or does it work unmodified?
Cello62 (author)  F_Elite1 year ago
Repeat, you have to read better. At the end there is a code that you have to load in the atmega with bootloader.
Ahmedqatar2 years ago
Great idea ..
Is there a chance to make an Arabic version?
Why dont you write. Every thing in arbi like al waqt. And write the numbers in arbi i want to make a prayer time clock like this word clock but havethe clock telling me how long left
I know this is an old post - I would be very interested in helping with an Arabic version - You can email me at doug@dougswordclock.com - All I need is a short instruction in how to tell the time in Arabic, and I can modify the code and cut up a stencil.

I have 24 separate words to play with, so it should be doable.

Doug
maceide drj1131 year ago
If its not to much for me to ask; would you be so kind and helpful to help me make and norwegian version?
I'll be glad to help you out with all you need:)
Cello62 (author)  Ahmedqatar2 years ago
Hi, ty for reply Do not know Arabic and I do not know quite how it is delivered on time, but I think so. The concept is to modify the program by replacing the input on the correct words, the layout is simpler. See this in the Arabic version:
http://qlocktwo.com/
Regards
I know how this clock works and the one you sent me is cool but yet i'm not sure how to get Arabic to work with it.

Is it easy to modify the program to control the led sequence?
Cello62 (author)  Ahmedqatar2 years ago
Not so easy, but not impossible. You must study the language, in any case before you know how it is treated the time in Arabic, after taking the example in English try to see if there are similarities, if so just replacing the words, otherwise you have to add instructions.
Try to contact if you want this author
http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Word-Clock-Arduino-version/
is very kind and competent, may have already done something in Arabic.
Regards
I do have programming background .. I think it's just replacing the words..
Thanks for helping
pro2xy2 years ago
"Share a project does not mean give away components" - I thought we were talking about the designs, not the components. Sorry I misunderstood that.

"I paid several euros to have the designs and build the pcb" - The text on the instructable wasn't clearly mentioning that. "Has made by a professional mastering" gives more of an idea that you are a professional in designing PCBs. Sorry about that again.

" mine is just a request for transport cost"  - I thought that you would email a soft copy of the design or upload it here. Sorry again, misunderstanding.

"but as youI've seen i have completely shared project including wiring diagrams" - I completely agree, and honestly, following your schematics and design ideas, I'm building my own word clock! Thanks to Doug as well!

"If you have nothing to do go to to make the communist from another site please." - I dont understand this statement, please elaborate. 

Over everything, this is a very nice instructable. Hats off to you. :)
pro2xy2 years ago
Interesting to note: You say -
'Author:Cello62
There is no joy in possession without sharing'

And yet -
'I can send gerber file for a small fee.'
Anyhow, I wonder how much.
Cello62 (author)  pro2xy2 years ago
Share a project does not mean give away components if your limited brain can understand that I paid several euros to have the designs and build the pcb, mine is just a request for my costs, but as you have seen i have completely shared project including wiring diagrams. If you have nothing to do go to to make the other from another site please.
sucanushie2 years ago
Do you use a DS1302? I can't seem to see it on your PCB
Cello62 (author)  sucanushie2 years ago
Hi
You don't have understood my words. I've just wrote that there is another member, Doug Jackson, that has made a word clock using Ds1302.
Look at http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Wordclock-Grew-Up/.
Regards
ddolbi12 years ago
Hi, if I plan on using ATMega168 and other components instead of using an arduino, what do I do about the "to arduino" connections on the schematic?
Do I just completely ignore it and imagine it isn't there?
Cello62 (author)  ddolbi12 years ago
Hi, ty for reply.
Yes you have to ignore this part (CN1)
Me too i didn't use the Arduino but only the ATMEGA and of course what it takes to make it work. View photos of the card and you'll see that I put only the chip. The card is designed to connect directly to an Arduino (CN1) connecting the various pins but it is a choice. In this case you don't need C1-C2-X1-R1 because are already included in the Arduino. Greetings
ddolbi1 Cello622 years ago
Thanks for the quick reply.
What do you mean by I don't need C1-C2-X1-R1? Isn't the point having them so I can build the arduino on the card itself?
Also, I'm not very good with arduinos, but can I program the microcontroller on an arduino UNO, then take out the chip and just place it on the card?
Thanks again!
Cello62 (author)  ddolbi12 years ago
I hope to explain you well:
-if you use a board like the one i did, with a ATMega standalone, you need c1-c2 and so on, better you need capacitors, clock, resistor, all that is indicated by my scheme ok? If you plan to connect an Arduino to my board it is no necessary to add these component because are already included in an typical Arduino board, if you plan to build another board with an Atmega standalone to connect to my board you need all these component (and others like power supply and so on) but in your board to drive the Atmega ok? The last method is a no sense because is more simple to add an Atmega to my board.
For the second question YES, i have done this, i've buyed an Atmega 328 with bootloader inside, replaced with that of Arduino UNO, reprogrammed and placed on my board.
ddolbi1 Cello622 years ago
Wow. Thanks! That solved all my problems!
ddolbi1 Cello622 years ago
And also, I have a question regarding the CN3. I placed 3 male pins on it, and I'm confused about pin 1 and 3. What's going through those pins? It appears to me that there are no currents going through them because they are open.
If I'm mistaken, what else gets connected to these pins other than the microcontroller?
Cello62 (author)  ddolbi12 years ago
CN3 is for the two buttons that regulate the hours and minutes. Pin 1 is for one and Pin3 is for the other. Pin2 is for 5volt shared toghether.
If I could ask a couple of questions - how could I get a copy of that PCB board - also would a project like this be easy for someone with a basic understanding of circuits and various experiences soldering?
Cello62 (author)  HomelandSecurity2 years ago
Hi ty for reply. Methods may be different. I have given the schematic to a designer and i did make the PCB to a professional mastering there are several on the internet. You must send the gerber (software) file after you decide how many cards you want to achieve. Once you have the card is very easy to solder the components. As i wrote in the instructions i sell the gerber files, after you can choose where to make the pcb. To solder the components is very easy after looking the schematic. Regards
Thanks - where could I browse to purchase one of your boards?
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