My Indoor DWC Hydroponics System

My Indoor DWC Hydroponics System
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  This instructable will cover the build and operation of a deep water culture hydroponics system. So far, I have sucessfully grown banana peppers in this setup with complete ease since most of the process is automated.
Also, these plants were grown indoors completely under artificial light that outputs about 60 watts. The entire unit requires about 65 watts and runs for about 16 hours every 24 hours. It costs about 9 cents a day to run it.
When I first wrote this instructable it was about a month before I planted anything in it. Since then I have made many modifications to the hydroponics system such as a third light and a more advanced electrical system. I'm soon going to make a fabric cover for it with built in fans for air circulation. As a result you'll see some old and new pictures mixed together. Please bear with me untill I find enough time to re-write the whole thing.
 
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Step 1Warning Science Content: An Introduction to Plant Physiology

Warning Science Content: An Introduction to Plant Physiology
To the naked or untrained eye, plants can appear as very simple and boring forms of life. In reality, plants are very complex creatures. In fact, genetically speaking plants are about twice as complex as humans.

They exist in two very separate yet two very interconnected and equally important worlds. There is the above ground world of the shoot system and the underground world of the root system.

The shoot system of the plant is what we normally see when we look at a plant in the ground. From figure 1B you'll notice that the shoot system is extensively branched to allow a maximum surface area for the absorption of sunlight. This part contains the leaves, which is where the chemical reaction we learned in junior high takes place:
6 CO2 + 6 H20 ==> 6 O2 + C6H12O6

This chemical process is known as photosynthesis in which the radiant energy from the sun is harnessed and converted into chemical energy in the form of sugars. Excess sugars produced by the plant can be stored in bulk, usually in the form of a fruit that is meant to provide a developing seed with energy until it can grow it's own leaves and manufacture it's own glucose.

The process of photosynthesis is actually much more complex than the above chemical reaction. It is really a series of dozens of chemical reactions that are only a small part of a plant's overall metabolism, which requires many other nutrients such as Nitrogen, Potassium, and Phosphorus. But how does the plant collect these nutrients? From it's root system.

The root system is responsible for providing the leaves and the rest of the plant with the required raw materials for metabolism and photosynthesis. From figure 1B you'll notice that the root system is extensively branched to allow a maximum surface area for adequate absorption of water and nutrients from the soil. Anything that is absorbed by the roots are transported up to the leaves through the plant's stem. In return, some of the oxygen and sugars produced by the leaves are transported down to the roots through the stem. The roots are not exposed to sunlight and therefore cannot manufacture it's own sugars.

There are three main problems with soil that limit the growth of a plant:
One is that soil does not contain a whole lot of oxygen that the roots need to survive. Roots need to "breathe" just like we do and this can cause a lot of problems when oxygen is scarce. Hydroponics systems help with this by delivering a highly oxygenated nutrient solution to the roots. This is most commonly achieved through the use of air pumps and bubblers similar to those used in aquariums.

The second problem with soil it that nutrients are often scarce and in a form not usable by the plant. For example, nitrogen in soil is often in the form of ammonia or gas and must be processed by nitrogen fixing bacteria before the plant can use it. Hydroponics systems suspend the roots directly in a nutrient rich solution that can be readily absorbed by the roots and used for growth.

Finally, soil can contain many pathogens that can lead to diseased plants. Hydroponics solutions can be easily sterilized to prevent any nasty creatures from infecting your plants.

By addressing these three problems, hydroponics allows plants to grow and develop at an accelerated rate. With all that being said, I finally give to you my design of an indoor Deep Water Culture (DWC) hydroponics system.

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80 comments
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Aug 11, 2010. 2:40 PMsteveF5 says:
nice instructable!, while plants are still small and their root systems have not extended far enough to reach the water, should you just water them top down from the reservoir below?
Jul 21, 2011. 4:07 PMtudgeanator says:
Brilliantly written, and very helpful 'ible! One question, how to regulate warmth? It's a bit chilly over here in the UK for without heaters, or do the lights provide enough warmth? Many thanks.
May 8, 2010. 3:42 PMrussvan says:
 ive seen that weird blue snorkel tube coming up from the bottom of the bucket in alot of DWC systems, and I cant figure out what it is!! does anyone know?
May 16, 2010. 10:52 AMPYUS says:
semi-transparent tube allows user to view water level inside the bucket ... which must be opaque to block light, which damages roots and stimulates algae.
May 16, 2010. 12:24 PMrussvan says:
 makes sense, thanks!
Feb 10, 2010. 7:02 AMJamezino26 says:
Hey LancePenny,

Awesome instructable, however, I can't seem to download it. Everytime it tries to load it just gets stuck or quits (times out) on me after 10 mins of nothing. Maybe I should take it up with the Instructables crew rather. What say you?

Would love to look at the instructable in full.

Thanks

J
Aug 11, 2008. 1:33 AMnafango22 says:
banana pepper seeds. mmmhmmm, im sure.
Feb 4, 2010. 6:15 PMgrampa tom says:
Im having trouble getting setup for your PRO membership.. I wounder if you can accept checks on line. would appricate hearing from you.. You have a nice site . keep up the good work. espically like your hydroponic s im trying to learn how to grow indoors. Thank You

                                                                       Grampa Tom
Feb 4, 2010. 4:21 AMg.roller says:
how much did this cost you to buid?
Jan 30, 2010. 1:52 PMKnexFreek says:
 cool
Jan 4, 2010. 6:13 AMtj the gnome says:
can you include some quantities of each item? i want to get all the parts at once.
Aug 10, 2008. 7:12 PMapider36439 says:
why don't you just run the wires inside the pipes ????
May 3, 2009. 9:28 AMauroraoutdoorlighting says:
If you use stranded wire, it's much easier to feed through the pipes. Plus, you can probably go a gauge smaller since there's more surface area on stranded wire for the electrons to pass through.
Jul 2, 2009. 8:06 PMbohner says:
you are wrong with your calculations but within reason your lights would more likely be pulling .23 amps. The reason for that is there is alot more than one calculation you can use to calculate current draw. Because the ballast of the florescent lights you need to use another calculation but you don't have the proper testing tools to actually find the right variables. Your best way to actually find the current draw is to use an ammeter. And just because you use stranded wire DOES NOT mean it can handle more current.
Nov 10, 2008. 12:52 AMlittleangels says:
WOW! I am completely impressed! Just starting to investigate hydroponics, you make it seem so simple! ( I am sure that is a "ha-ha"). Where I live, (USA, on west coast, no sun), is in an agriculture belt, but alas, I can't even grow tomatoes...no sun, too many pine trees...So, this seems perfect! If you ever want seeds, I have been collecting organic seeds for many years, have LOTS, and am willing to share. Pumpkins, Italian Butter beans (really good), all the way to pears, apples, persimmons and tangerines. Let me know if you would like any seeds to experiment with. How would fruit trees do in hydroponics?
Jun 29, 2009. 6:02 PMbabybackribs says:
um...i'm gonna have to say that fruit trees get way too big for hydroponics even before they are ready to bear fruit. I have just purchased 6 seedlings that are about 6 feet high and in 4 gallon planters that won't produce fruit for at least a few years until they are well established in the soil. I guess it's possible on a huge scale, but not practical.
Jun 23, 2009. 7:24 PMsonhakkai says:
From experience growing peppers, and tomatoes, if you remove the flowers the first time they show up, and let the roots become a bit stronger, generally speaking you get larger yields. I've also heard, but not tried, that if you remove some of the lower leaves you also get more fruit. I'm not sure how well this works, and as this is my first growing season in the area I'm in, I'm not doing much experimenting.
May 21, 2009. 9:10 AMpasserby06 says:
Most three strand electrical wiring that I've encountered in the U.S. comes with either black/white/green strands, or black/white/bare. A cute ditty for remembering the assignment of these strands is, "Black is hot, white is not and the ground is always green." Commit that to memory and you shouldn't have any problems with messed up polarities. (You'll probably also be cursing my name for not being able to get it out of your head.) ;-) Also, with modern grounded outlets, the black/power lead attaches to the "short" slot, white/neutral attaches to the "tall" slot.
Mar 26, 2009. 9:41 PMaandre says:
I loved your instructable and am going to do something similar in the future with potted plants and LEDs. I only have one very important recommendation, however. That is, you should go with a lower rated fuse, something much closer to the actual power being used. I would recommend a 1A for your particular application.
Apr 7, 2009. 8:15 AMdiamondice00085 says:
i had a question about maintaining the solution. Obviously you would want to make sure that the PH and PPM were within specified parameters. However, on this system you would have to lift the lid to check the solution and/or remove the solution. Does lifting the lid and recycling your solution disrupt the plants at all?
Apr 8, 2009. 3:05 AMorisj says:
What a well put together instructable! And very complete. Good job!
Apr 2, 2009. 1:23 PM2cardGUTZ says:
its called mylar, reflects 95% of light, use it. believe it or not aluminum foil @ 50% and yes flat white is a better option better than foil
Mar 7, 2009. 9:28 PMmanofadventure says:
Nice! I might build one of these in a different country!:-)
Jan 19, 2009. 2:18 AMSixTwelve says:
I really enjoyed the article. I'd like to share one project suggestion and one article suggestion. Project: Instead of painting the reservoir lid white, you might consider aluminum foil. Spray tack doesn't cost any more than paint, and for that matter flour paste would likely bond foil to the plastic irretrievably, and practically for free. Article: I understand you recommended an understanding of Ohm's law. The thing is, laypersons tend to over-estimate their safety in this area. I only point this out because a 50% safety barrier is generally considered minimum in the industry. You did this and more with your example wiring; I would suggest spelling that out, though. Thanks for an entertaining and informative read!
Feb 28, 2009. 7:32 PMAsianSpanker says:
I read somewhere that flat white reflected back as much light as aluminum foil. Or that the difference was so small that it was not worth doing expensive reflector systems. But that was 10 years ago. We be some more smarter now.
Feb 17, 2009. 12:30 AMsensoryhouse says:
Congrats! Your IP has just been traced by the DEA........Yay!
Feb 28, 2009. 7:27 PMAsianSpanker says:
Yes, those banana peppers look extremely addictive. Good that you have such a keen eye! LOL
Feb 23, 2009. 12:42 PMtwhaley says:
Tune in next week for : "Build your own meth-lab" ;)
Feb 19, 2009. 7:08 AMtwhaley says:
A long time ago I made something like this with my roomate at college.
Feb 21, 2009. 6:30 PMobstructio says:
Probably weren't growing banana peppers though, were you?
Feb 19, 2009. 2:30 PMtestoffer says:
There is a much cheaper solution to the reflective tape to prevent root rot (if indeed that is what's happening). Use a piece of an Emergency Solar Blanket (space blanket, Mylar blanket). You can get one for under two bucks. They are 84" by 52". Cut a strip big enough for the bottom and then cut some slits from the edges so you can get it round the stems/trunks of the plants. Also, you are wasting at least half the light from each of the two outer bulbs. Someone alluded to this earlier. Get a second space blanket and use the rest of the first one to make a curtain that goes around the lighting frame. This curtain along with the piece at the bottom will reflect most of the light output of the bulbs back toward the plants. This will effectively double the efficiency of the bulbs (even better if you use the T8s). Also, for the hand pollinating you can use a small, natural fiber, arts and craft paintbrush (round with a flat bottom). Use a twirling motion from stamen to pistil.
Feb 19, 2009. 2:55 PMkd1s says:
I have to build this. The electricity usage is pretty low and having fresh veggies and other items throughout winter would be nice. I understand plant nutrition so there isn't a barrier there.
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Author:LancePenney