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Mi torno del pobre tiene algunas virtudes y algunos defectos. De estos, el más molesto es el ruido: cuando debo hacer funcionar al mismo tiempo la amoladora y el taladro, a los vecinos se les deben erizar los pelos. Así que pensé que podría tratar de construir otro, que no tuviera ese problema. Además, quise capitalizar la experiencia que me dejó la construcción del anterior, para no trabajar de balde o por lo menos mejorar mi eficiencia. Así que adopté el protocolo HSE (Hacelo Simple, Estúpido) que en mis épocas de analista-programador de sistemas demostró sobradamente su valía. Otra táctica que he adoptado con buenos resultados es la de trabajar sin planos, resolviendo puntualmente cada situación con los elementos que tengo a mano. Ya que es "cool" darles nombre a las cosas, podríamos llamarla TTSP (Táctica de Trabajo Sin Planos)

Agregado el 21/05/13: vea https://www.instructables.com/id/Mejoras-a-mi-KISS-lathe-my-KISS-lathe-upgrades/
y https://www.instructables.com/id/Plato-para-torno-plate-for-lathe/

My poor man's lathe has some strengths and some flaws. Of these, the most annoying is the noise: When I do work at the same time the grinder and drill, the neighbors are owed bristle hairs. So I thought I could try to build another, not having that problem. I also wanted to capitalize on the experience I left the building before, so no work for nothing or at least improve my efficiency. So I adopted the KISS protocol (Keep it Simple, Stupid), which in my time as an systems analyst-programmer proved their worth. Another tactic that I have adopted with good results is to work without plans, duly solving every situation with the items I have on hand. Because it is cool to name things, we might call it WWPT (Working Without PlansTactic).

Added
may 05 2013:  see https://www.instructables.com/id/Mejoras-a-mi-KISS-lathe-my-KISS-lathe-upgrades/
andhttps://www.instructables.com/id/Plato-para-torno-plate-for-lathe/

Step 1: Seek and Find (buscad Y Encontrar�is)

Pensando y pensando, recordé que tenía arrinconado en el patio trasero el viejo bombeador de agua que había en la casa que compró mi hija hace unos años. Mi yerno lo sacó porque ya no se usaba y molestaba, y él pensaba tirarlo a la basura. Como yo soy de los que no tiran ni la cáscara del huevo, se lo pedí por las dudas algún día me sirviera.

Así que levanté la tapa de chapa, vi que estaba con motor y todo, lo conecté a 220V y ¡aleluya! funcionaba perfectamente. Por supuesto, tenía tanta mugre encima que daba pena. Me puse a restaurarlo, lo hice revisar por un experto que me confirmó que los rodamientos no necesitaban reemplazo, lo limpié lo mejor que pude, le lavé los rulemanes, los engrasé, le agregué una tapita protectora para retener la grasa, le cambié algunos tornillos, y para terminar le di dos o tres manos de pintura. No sé qué potencia tiene porque perdió la chapita con las especificaciones, pero por el peso calculo que es de 3/4 o 1 HP

Thinking and thinking, I remembered I had been stuck in the backyard an old water pump from the house that my daughter bought a few years ago. My son-in-law took it out because it was not used and annoyed, and he'd throw it away. Since I am among those who do not discard an eggshell, I asked it, just in case one day it serves me.

So I lifted the cover sheet, saw it was with motor and all, I connected it to 220 V and hallelujah! worked perfectly. Of course, it had so much dirt that was sad. I began to restore it, I did review it by an expert who confirmed that bearings needed no replacing, I cleaned it as best I could, I washed the bearings, oiled them, added a protective cap to retain the grease, changed a few screws , and finally gave it two or three layers of paint. I don't know how much power it have, because it lost  specifications label, but I estimate 3/4 or 1 HP because its weight. 

Step 2: Direction of Rotation (sentido De Giro)

Me di cuenta de que el motor giraba al revés, cosa que como bombeador no lo afectaba para nada, pero usarlo como torno iba a ser complicado porque las piezas a tornear se aflojarían al aplicarles la herramienta de corte. Afortunadamente, recordé que invirtiendo un par de cables de los bobinados internos, se invertía el sentido de rotación. Lo hice en un ratito, sin novedad.

I noticed the engine rotates reversed, which as a pump will not affect it at all, but using it as lathe would be complicated because the turning pieces are loosen when subjected to the cutting tool. Fortunately, I remembered that reversing a pair of internal winding wires are reversed the direction of rotation. I did it in a while, without incident.

Step 3: The Chuck (el Mandril)

¿Qué usaría como madril? En principio pensé usar la pequeña polea que ya traía el motor, pero luego me pareció que eso significaba arruinarla, y que teniendo en casa tantos trozos de caño de hierro, lo mejor era hacer una pieza a medida. Tomé un caño que por poco no entraba en el eje, le hice un corte longitudinal, lo abrí un poco y cuando estuvo amoldado al eje le soldé una tuerca para apretarlo al eje con un tornillo. A ese caño le soldé en una punta un par de arandelas gruesas y grandes, y en el agujero central de estas, tres arandelas más chicas que a su vez tenían soldado un tirafondos bastante robusto. Posteriormente agregué una tuerca hecha de madera dura, que sirve para sujetar piezas planas de madera. Mas tarde haré otros mandriles, para diferentes tareas

What would I use as chuck? At first I thinked to use the small pulley that brought the engine, but then I thought it meant ruin it, and having at home many pieces of iron pipe, the best thing was to make a bespoke piece. I took a tube that almost did not enter the shaft, I made it a longitudinal cut, opened it a bit and when it was molded to the shaft, I welded a nut to tighten the shaft with a screw. At one end of this pipe I welded a pair of big thick washers, and at the central hole of these, three smaller washers, which in turn had welded a quite robust lag. Later I added a nut made of hard wood, used to hold flat pieces of wood. Later I will make other chucks, for different tasks.

Step 4: The Chassis (el Chasis)

Ahora venía el tema de montar el motor sobre una bancada que levantara el eje de giro lo suficiente como para poder tornear un plato grande o una fuente mediana. Entre los trozos de hierro que guardo encontré un pedazo de perfil, que rescaté hace unos meses de la basura en la obra de construcción de la casa de mi hijo. Como la forma que tenía era trapezoidal, le corté una punta y la soldé girándola 180 grados, de manera de convertirlo en un rectángulo. A esa base, que casualmente era del tamaño justo de la base del motor, le hice los cuatro agujeros necesarios para asegurar este, y bajo los agujeros soldé las tuercas, para simplificar la tarea de fijar y sacar el motor.

Luego le soldé a la base dos largueros de hierro en L de 1 pulgada, como rieles, para deslizar sobre los mismos el portaherramienta. Mediante dos pequeños trozos de hierro plano de 1/8 pulgada por 1/2, me aseguré de que quedaran medianamente paralelos al soldarlos. La longitud de los largueros la fijé más modesta que en el torno anterior, porque todo tiene su pro y su contra: a mayor capacidad, más dificultades de almacenamiento. Me fijé como meta poder tornear objetos de pequeño y mediano tamaño. De todas maneras, puedo agrandarlo si hubiera necesidad.  A los largueros les puse patitas de goma, fijadas con pequeños tornillos, para que no queden apoyados sobre la mesa en toda su longitud. Además, absorben un poco las vibraciones.

Now came the matter of mounting the engine on a bench to lift the spin axis enough to turning a large plate or a medium bowl. Among the pieces of iron that I keep, found a piece of profile, that I rescued a few months ago at the construction site of my son's house. Because its shape was trapezoidal, I cut one end and soldered it by turning 180 degrees, so as to turn it into a rectangle. At that base, which just happened to be the size of the engine base, I made the four holes needed to fasten it, and under the holes I welded nuts, to simplify the task of puting and removing the engine.

Then I welded two beams of 1 inch L angle iron to the base, as rails, to slide the tool holder over them. Using two small pieces of flat iron 1/8 inch by 1/2, I was fairly sure that they are parallel before weld. I decided the rails's length more modest than the previous lathe, because everything has its advantages and troubles: higher capacity means more storage difficult. I set a goal: to be able to turning small and medium size objects. Anyway, I can enlarge it if the need arises. For the rails I put rubber feet, fixed with small screws, so there are no resting on the table along its length. Besides, they absorb some vibration.

Step 5: The Tool Holder (el Portaherramienta)

Para hacer el portaherramienta, o mejor dicho el soporte de herramienta, dado que será un torno principalmente para madera, usé un trozo de caño cuadrado de hierro que hallé en el garage, sobrante de un trabajo anterior. Al principio le di una forma de L algo cerrada, pero luego me di cuenta de que con esa forma me resultaría difícil tornear cerca del centro de rotación, así que agregué un codo, con lo cual la L se aproximó un poco a la forma de la C. En la primera versión, le hice en el extremo superior agujeros cruzados 90%, de manera de poder atornillar el apoyaherramienta en forma paralela o perpendicular al eje de giro del motor. Posteriormente decidí reemplazar el par de agujeros por un trozo de caño vertical, que me permitiera girar rápidamente a cualquier ángulo entre 0 y 180º el soporte de la herramienta. Los agujeros quedaron en parte, como recuerdos de su pasado evolutivo.

To make the tool holder, or rather the tool support, since the lathe will be mainly for wood, I used a square piece of iron pipe I found in the garage, left over from a previous job. At first I gave it a closed L shape, but then I realized that I would find it difficult turning around the center of rotation, so I added an elbow, which the L was close to some C shape. In the first version, I made holes 90% crossed at its top, so I can screw the tool rest parallel or perpendicular to the rotation axis. Later I decided to replace the pair of holes with a vertical piece of pipe, let me turn quickly to any angle between 0 and 180 degrees the tool rest. The holes remains partially, as memories of its evolutionary past.

Step 6: Sliding (desplazamientos)

Ahora venían los mecanismos de desplazamiento longitudinal y transversal, que en el primer torno me habían insumido bastante trabajo. Recordé el principio KISS (Keep It Simple, Stupid) y decidí no complicarme la vida. Así que hice simplemente dos abrazaderas cuadradas iguales, cada una con dos tuercas que aprietan un trozo de planchuela de hierro a manera de morza, lo suficientemente robustas como para no correr el riesgo de que fallaran en caso de que la herramienta se clavara en la pieza a tornear, cosa que sucede cuando uno no sabe hacer el trabajo. Estas abrazaderas permiten ambos movimientos (longitudinal y transversal), y lo único que tengo que hacer es aflojar un poquito las tuercas, reubicar el portaherramienta y volver a apretarlas. Tal vez más adelante haga un mecanismo a palanca que reduzca todo a un único movimiento, pero lo haré solo si la relación trabajo/beneficio es realmente conveniente.

Now came the mechanisms of longitudinal and transverse sliding, that in the first lathe I had too much work. I remembered the KISS principle (Keep It Simple, Stupid) and decided do not complicate my life. So I simply did two equal square brackets, each with two nuts that fasten a piece of iron plate, like a vise grip, robust enough to avoid the risk of fail if the tool is nailed to the turning piece, which happens when one does not know to do the job. These brackets allow both movements (longitudinal and transverse), and all I have to do is loosen four nuts, relocate the tool rest and re-tighten the nuts. Maybe later I will make a lever mechanism that reduces everything to a single movement, but I will do it only if the work/benefit relation is really convenient.

Step 7: Wiring (cableado)

La parte eléctrica, al principio se redujo a agregar un cable de 2 metros con una ficha al motor, pero luego me cansé de andar enchufando y desenchufándolo, así que intercalé un interruptor pulsador, montado sobre un trozo de madera, para accionarlo con el pie. Tiene la ventaja de que en caso de tener que desatender el trabajo, no tengo que preocuparme por apagar el motor, ya que al levantar el pie se corta el suministro de energía. Cuando voy a tocar con las manos la pieza que se está torneando, o tengo que ajustar la posición del portaherramienta, empujo bajo la mesa el interruptor, para evitar pisarlo inadvertidamente y ocasionar un accidente.

The electrical part, at beginnig was reduced to adding a 2-meter cable with a plug to the motor, but then I got tired of walking plugging and unplugging the engine, so inserted a push button switch mounted on a piece of wood to be operated with the foot. It has the advantage that if I have to neglect the work, I don't have to worry about turning off the engine because raising the foot, the power supply cut off. When I go to touch with the hands the piece is machined, or I have to adjust the position of the collet, I push the switch under the table, to avoid inadvertently stepped on and cause an accident.


Step 8: Futurismo Y Ciencia Ficci�n (Futurism and Science Fiction)

Los próximos pasos son:
  1. Aprender a usarlo e ir detectando problemas a solucionar o mejoras necesarias.
  2. Reforzar algunos puntos donde la soldadura no quedó del todo bien
  3. Hacer algunos mandriles alternativos
  4. Hacer una contrapunta
  5. Masillar, lijar y pintar
The next steps are:
  1. Learn to use it and go find some problems to solve or improvements.
  2. Reinforce some points where welding was not quite right
  3. Make some alternative chucks
  4. Make a tailstock
  5. Putty, sanding and painting

Step 9: Agregado El 25/11/10 (added Nov 25 2010)

Acá hay dos trabajitos más, hechos con el torno. Ambos tienen defectos, porque son solo intentos. Poco a poco voy aprendiendo a tornear. Bueno, Lula Da Silva empezó así...

Here are two more odd jobs, made with the lathe. Both have flaws, they are only attempts. Little by little I am learning to turning. Well, Lula Da Silva started just like that...
Le quedo Muy Bien!! El motor se ve como nuevo. Perdone mi espa~ol se que tengo muy pobre lenguaje. Pero como me gusta el repose de herramienta (tool rest) que hiso. <br>Deveria hacer un instructable de eso. <br>Gracias por compartir con nosotros! <br>Jesse M. <br>
Gracias por tu comentario. Esta fue la primera versi&oacute;n, actualmente ha cambiado bastante. Por favor, mira <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Mejoras-a-mi-KISS-lathe-my-KISS-lathe-upgrades/" rel="nofollow">https://www.instructables.com/id/Mejoras-a-mi-KISS-lathe-my-KISS-lathe-upgrades/</a>. Y &uacute;ltimamente le reforc&eacute; el chasis, para poder hacer repujado.<br> <br> Thanks for your comment. This was the first version, plis see <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Mejoras-a-mi-KISS-lathe-my-KISS-lathe-upgrades/" rel="nofollow">https://www.instructables.com/id/Mejoras-a-mi-KISS-lathe-my-KISS-lathe-upgrades/.</a> And last month I reinforced the chassis, to allow metal spinning.
very smart!
Thanks!
buenisimo, felicitaciones por El Papa Argentino.
Gracias, carlo$, Yo no soy cat&oacute;lico (renegu&eacute; a los 14 a&ntilde;os), pero estoy contento con Bergoglio papa por ser este un tipo sencillo, y sobre todo porque ha tenido la valent&iacute;a de enfrentarse a los Kirchner. <br> <br>Thanks, carlo$, I am not Catholic (disowned at 14), but I'm happy with Bergoglio pope as this is a simple dude, and especially because he had the courage to face the Kirchner.
Osvaldo,<br><br>Very nice with a lot of ingenuity. I have long thought about a homemade lathe, but have never worked out how I would make the chuck. You did a good job with available materials. I like how you slit a pipe and opened it to fit your motor shaft. I wondered at first if your tool rest could swivel and was glad to see that it does. I think you will really like turning wood pieces with a tailstock. A tailstock allows many possibilities you cannot achieve with a mount only to the headstock shaft. Can you also find a speed reduction control for a 220 volt alternating current motor? Changing the speed is also very useful.
Thanks, Phil. The tailstock is one of the next steps. Saturday I went to the timber shop and the clerk ask me if I could make some articles for them. Maybe in one or two months I have learned to do it.<br><br>Yesterday a friend suggested I lower the tool rest, we agreed that I will have in mind.<br><br>I HAVE A 220V VARIATOR! Even I tried it with my motor, and it functions well. I have not used, really, but I propose to do it.<br><br>Have you noticed the beautiful blue-gray color of the iron pieces? It is not the camera, is the liquid phosphating I used as a preliminary step to painting. I love how it converts rust into iron phosphate and covers this with a very nice color.<br> <br>BTW, there are some English errors to fix?
Your English is okay. A little rough but okay. Thank you for posting this very informative and ingenious instructable.
Thank you, SharpyWarpy! Thanks to Google translator, too...
That bowl was retouched in december 2010 using a sharper cutting tool. Its walls (of the bowl, not of the tool) now are translucid, and its flaws are less.
nice job&hellip;<br>
have you thought about adapting the chuck from a drill to your electric motor? <br> <br>It will open up a whole new world of possibilties for you!
My <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Torno-del-pobre-poor-man-lathe/">poor's man lathe</a> uses a drill chuck as you suggest.<br> <br> Thanks for your concern!<br>
Nicely done. A bit startling to see green wire as power, here green or bare is the ground. Yup, any three phase motor reverse rotation by switching 2 wires. <br> Clever solution to clamping your beaver/tool rest holder. I suggest using a cam or eccentric linkage to make it easier to lock and unlock. A question about the bed rails. Wouldn't it have been easier to have the flats of the angle irons on the top? Sort of like [ ], gives more clamping face for the beaver (I'd think). <br> Your headstock motor set up reminds me of an old Popular Mechanics article on making your own faceplate lathe. Yours is better because you can add a tailstock and do spindle turning.
Thanks for your compliment, kleinjahr!<br><br>My motor is not triphasic, is monophasic (biphasic?). Here in Argentina ground is commonly seen as yellow with green strips or vice versa. My motor has not ground wire, and besides, if I touch it while I am doing mass elsewhere in my body, I get 220 volts directly. That keeps me alert!<br><br>With regard to the eccentric, I thinked it but preferred not to complicate for now my life doing it, because I wanted to start using the lathe quickly. Maybe I will do it later.<br><br>Regarding the bed rails, your suggestion is valid, but the sawdust would accumulate over the horizontal flat plane. I thinked it before decide. <br><br>Anyway, the actual status is temporary, I have thinked to make a double cone speed variator (I bought a used shaft with bearings), enlarge the rails and attach a detachable tailstock. But I have many other projects, and I have no time limit, then I don't know when I will do it.<br><br>Now I have two chucks, one with a short and thick screw for wood and other with a whitworth screw and nut.
Enhorabuena, buen trabajo! Ya me gustaria harceme un torno de estos pero no tengo espacio en mi casa. <br>Por cierto, me tomo nota de los 2 protocolos HSE y TTSP. <br>Saludos.
Muchas gracias. Esos protocolos son mi gu&iacute;a de c&oacute;mo vivir.<br><br>Thank you very much. These protocols are my guide on how to live.
this is terrific. My sister has 3 or 4 of these motors behind her house, I have always figured one could turned into a lathe. <br><br>Nice Job.
Yes, these older engines, of the time when things were made to last, are spectacular. Quiet, powerful, heavy, reliable.
Nice work! the turning results look great. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks, you are very kind. The turned pieces have some flaws because I am learning, but you are right, they look nice.
nice lathe !
Yes, thanks! I am glad with it.

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