Introduction: My Phil B Type Carbon Arc Torch (mi Soplete De Arco a Carb�n, Tipo Phil B)

Picture of My Phil B Type Carbon Arc Torch (mi Soplete De Arco a Carb�n, Tipo Phil B)

PLEASE HELPME WITH ENGLISH ERRORS. I WILL APPRECIATE YOUR KINDNESS!

Luego de haber hecho dos versiones de sopletes de un solo carbón, esta y esta, finalmente decidí que ya era hora de experimentar lo que hizo Phil B hace un tiempo. Obviamente, lo hice a mi manera, con las cosas que encontré a mano.

After making two versions of single carbon torches, this and this, I finally decided it was time to experience what Phil B made some time ago. Obviously, I did it my way, with the things that came to hand.

Step 1: Handles (mangos)

Picture of Handles (mangos)

Comencé por asegurarme de que entre mis cosas viejas hubiera materiales suficientes para el proyecto. En primer lugar, tomé un viejo palo de pino, sección cuadrada de 1 pulgada de lado. Corté dos trozos de unos quince centímetros, aprovechando los extremos que tenían sendos rebajes para empalme. Estos rebajes servirán para permitir la apertura de los brazos del aparato. Los trozos de madera serán los mangos.

I started by making sure that with my old things have enough materials for the project. First, I took an old pine wood stick, square section, 1 inch of side. I cut two pieces of about six inches, using the ends having recesses for joint. These recesses serve to allow the opening of the arms of the device. The wooden pieces are the handles.

Step 2: Arms and Carbonholders (brazos Y Portacarbones)

Picture of Arms and Carbonholders (brazos Y Portacarbones)

Brazos: corté dos trozos de acero de construcción de 8 mm, de unos 15 cm de largo.

Porta carbones: corté dos trozos de hierro ángulo de 3/4 de pulgada, de unos 5 cm de largo. Hice un agujero de 4.5 mm en el centro de uno de los lados de cada trozo. Corté dos trozos de chapa gruesa , les di forma tal que pudieran apretar contra el ángulo internos de los trocitos de hierro los electrodos de carbón, les hice a cada uno un agujero coincidente con el correspondiente de su hierro ángulo, y sobre el agujero soldé una tuerca, que aloja el tornillo mariposa que aprieta el carbón. Los tornillos mariposa los hice soldando una arandela enla ranura de la cabeza. Uso estos tornillos porque si usara el destornillador podría inadvertidamente apretar demasiado los carbones, que son frágiles y podrían partirse.

Esos trabajos de soldadura de piezas pequeñas son para mí un desafío, dado que no soy un soldador experimentado ni mucho menos.

Soldé los dos trozos de hierro ángulo en un extremo de cada brazo de acero de construcción.

Al otro extremo de cada brazo soldé una chapa gruesa con dos agujeros, para atornillarlos a los mangos de madera. Traté de que los portacarbones quedaran apuntando hacia adentro y abajo en un ángulo de 45 grados aprox.

Arms: I cut two pieces of 8 mm structural steel, about 15 cm long.

Carbonholders: I cut two pieces of angle iron 3/4 inch, about 5 cm long. I made a 4.5 mm hole in the center of one side of each piece. I cut two pieces of iron sheet, gave form them so they could press against the internal angle of the iron pieces the carbon electrodes, made them each a hole coincident with the corresponding angle iron, and soldered a nut over the hole, which houses the thumbscrew that tightens coal. I made the thumbscrews welding a washer into the headslot. I Use these thumbscrews because if used the screwdriver I could inadvertently tighten too much the carbons, which are fragile and could break.

These welding of small parts are a challenge for me, since I am not an experienced welder, far.

I soldered the two pieces of angle iron at one end of each arm of construction steel.

At the other end of each arm I welded a thick iron shhet with two holes, to screw them to wooden handles. I tried to stay the carbon holders pointing inward and down at an angle of 45 degrees, approx.

Step 3: Ground (masa)

Picture of Ground (masa)

Masa: Soldé un trozo de chapa gruesa de hierro a uno de los brazos de acero, para asegurar en el mismo la pinza de masa. La chapa está doblada para darle mayor espesor, y mejorar el agarre de la soldadura.

I soldered a piece of thick iron sheet to one of the steel arms, to set there the ground clamp. The sheet is bent, to give it thicker, and better grip of the weld.

Step 4: Positive Wire (cable Del Positivo)

Picture of Positive Wire (cable Del Positivo)

Sacrifiqué la primera versión de soplete monocarbón, para utilizar el cable. Dado que este es un poco delgado y suficientemente largo, lo puse doble. Con estaño uní los pequeños alambres de cobre en ambos extremos. Uno de ellos lo dejé redondo y lo adosé al correspondiente brazo de acero mediante una brida prensacable, complementada con un trozo de chapa de hierro para mejorar el contacto. Al otro lo aplasté para que pudiera entrar dentro de la pinza portaelectrodo de la soldadora.

I sacrificed the first version of monocarbon torch, to use the cable. Since this is a bit thin and long enough, I put it double. Tin joined the tiny copper wires on both ends. One end left round and attaches it to the corresponding steel arm by a wire flange clamp, complete with a piece of iron sheet for better contact. The other end was smashed so it could enter into the electrode holder of the welder.

Step 5: Putting It All Together (armando Todo)

Picture of Putting It All Together (armando Todo)

Uní los mangos de madera con una bisagra de lona, pegada con adhesivo de caucho. En el extremo inferior hice muescas para alojar una bandita de goma bastante grande, a la cual le di varias vueltas para que tire con fuerza hacia afuera los brazos.

Para que los brazos no se desalineen entre sí, hice dos guías de chapa de hierro y las atornillé a uno de los mangos. Posteriormente las uní por el extremo externo con un puente de chapa, al cual hice un agujerito sobre el cual soldé una tuerca. La tuerca aloja el tornillo de pulgar que permite regular la separación máxima entre los extremos de los carbones.

En los mangos de madera cubrí las partes metálicas con dos pedazos de plástico moldeados al calor, para evitar electrocución.

I joined the wooden handles with a hinge of canvas, glued with rubber cement. At the bottom end I did notches to accommodate a fairly large rubber band, which gave it several turns to yank out the arms.

So the arms are not offset from each other, I made two guides of iron sheet and screwed to one of the handles. Subsequently joined them by the outer end with a metal bridge, which made a hole, on which I soldered a nut. The nut is hosting the thumb screw that regulates the maximum separation between the carbon tips.

In the wooden handles I covered the metal parts with two pieces of heat-molded plastic, to prevent electrocution.

Step 6: Prueba (test)

Picture of Prueba (test)

Tuve que flexionar ligeramente los brazos de acero para que las puntas de los carbones hagan contacto correctamente, pero fuera de eso, la prueba fue un éxito. No pude filmar ni fotografiar porque no tengo ayudante. La chispa salta con facilidad y dura unos 15 segundos antes de extinguirse, No quise exigir la soldadora porque ya tendré oportunidad de hacerlo en cuanto tenga que hacer un trabajo real. Además, con una temperatura ambiente que roza los 30 ºC, seguramente el recalentamiento se produciría en pocos minutos. Mi soldadora es la más barata del mercado.

Me llamó la atención el siseo tan diferente al que estoy acostumbrado a oír, una especie de silbido agudo y ruidoso, montado sobre una onda de 50 Hertz que corresponde a la frecuencia de la corriente alterna.

I had to bend the steel arms slightly so that the carbon tips make contact correctly, but beyond that, the test was a success. I could not film or photograph because I have no helper. The spark jumps with ease and lasts about 15 seconds before dying, I did not require heavy duty from the welder because I'll have chance to do when I have to do real work. Moreover, with an ambient temperature close to 30 º C, probably overheating would occur in minutes. My welder is the cheapest of the market.

I was struck by the hiss so different that I'm used to hearing, a kind of sharp, loud whistle, mounted on a wave of 50 Hz corresponding to the frequency of the alternating current.

Comments

Phil B (author)2010-12-30

This is a clever use of available materials. How does it work for you?

rimar2000 (author)Phil B2010-12-30

Still I could not do any real work, Phil, because my wife used me as driver and also as cook assistant, by the end of year celebration. Though it seems the contraption functions well. I need it to weld copper with copper, for the future revolutionary Schiavoni Ecological Motor.

Lefrançois (author)rimar20002012-09-22

Ah! les femmes!

Dipankar (author)2011-01-11

VERY GOOD AND CHEAP PROJECT.
KEEP UP THE GOOD WORKS..........

rimar2000 (author)Dipankar2011-01-11

Thanks, Dipankar!

zappymax (author)2011-01-09

i made some time ago an electrical welder with an electrical transformer, and tried to weld together metal shields (like in automotive process) but system didn`t work correctly. not enough power to melt the metal(s) at the contact point between the two electrodes.
will try to build a bigger electrical transfo, based on a bigger nucleus and/or different caliber, number or primary-secondary ratio of the copper wire used. also could try with my welding machine directly, as power is already availbale there.
a detaiil... coppered carbon electrodes were used in "old fashioned" movie halls projectors or lighting equipment for movies/aso too

doctorbigdaddy (author)zappymax2011-01-11

The electrodes for spot welding need to be either solid copper or heavily copper coated. Also, I have fond that a simple 12 volt high amp battery such as a deep cycle battery of 800 cranking amps works better than an induction transformer . The weld is a dead short for only a second or two and didn't seem to harm the battery . The copper electrodes keep them from sticking to the project.

zappymax (author)doctorbigdaddy2011-01-11

so we could make copper electrodes handles , and avoid ferrous ones.

and as I read: "A single carbon rod can be used to tack stainless steel sheetmetal," , i use for small work carbon (pos.) rods from D,C or AA discharged zinc /acid batteries f.i.. More power is needed, because welding doesn work now.

I realize bronce rods from alkaline (neg) batteries also could be useful for small work, if less power is enough.

rimar2000 (author)zappymax2011-01-11

Ferrous are cheaper, easier to get, easier to work with them.

rimar2000 (author)zappymax2011-01-09

Maybe this my project would give you an idea for your welder.

AR10NZ (author)2011-01-09

Hi Rimar2000 :
Interesting. A single carbon rod can be used to tack stainless steel sheetmetal, prior to TIG welding.
I am curious about the Schiavoni Ecological motor, could you please indicate where I might find information on it ?
Regards,
Dennis
diaden@ihug.co.nz

rimar2000 (author)AR10NZ2011-01-09

The Schiavoni Motor is in development phase. Three first tries have been failed, but that does not stop me. When I will have a working prototype, just then i will divulge the operating principle. At the moment I can only say it will be environmentally friendly, very low technology and good performance. The hobbyist's dream! If you think "this dude is crazy", I did not offend me, because I think it sometimes.

doctorbigdaddy (author)rimar20002011-01-11

The history of invention is written in the efforts of ' crazy' men and women who thought outside the box! Tesla was considered a nut and he gave us the impossible AC current and the miracles of induction motors, press on in spite of any epithets. What do you risk ? Only a failure of this approach and a start on another !!

rimar2000 (author)doctorbigdaddy2011-01-11

I agree with you. I am astonished for the number of persons that think "correctly": this is made so, that other in that manner. ALWAYS one can find a better way to do ANYTHING!
Obvious, in the journey one makes flaws, fails, errors, setbacks, some of them dangerous. But that is the only manner.

AR10NZ (author)rimar20002011-01-10

Hi Rimar :
I am curious, semi retired, have TIG, and stick welders, lathe & mill attach, oxy acetelene, etc.
Cheers,
Dennis

rimar2000 (author)AR10NZ2011-01-10

Maybe you and me could be perfect partners, if not for the distance.

I am retired since 01/01/10, I have a cheap stick welder and some electric hand tools, only. I like to design and to build little things, I am NOT perfectionist, I am content the things work. Besides of the mentioned motor, I have thinked a pulsorreactor motor that is different than existing, very simple. Maybe during 2011 I have time to attack it.

EmmettO (author)2011-01-03

Maybe it's me but when I weld with my arc torch I now make sure I'm entirely covered. I used it to weld one time and only had a t-shirt on. Now do this from time to time and I'm fine but I know, bad safety habit. Anyway I wore a t-shirt using the arc torch and I got a pretty decent UV burn.

Just a life experience, I think the time that the arc is struck is longer than normal welding and the longer arc length puts out more UV so cover up well!

rimar2000 (author)EmmettO2011-01-03

Yes, you are right, the UV (Ultra Violent ;)) light is dangerous. I have a denim frontal apron that covers from shoulders to under knees. That, plus the welding mask, is enough for me. I could not get used to working with gloves, that's too much to ask me!

erik_mccray (author)2010-12-30

I would like it if you posted an instructable on using a carbon ark welder after you get your year end celebrations done. I am looking to make a carbon ark welder myself, but I can't find any info on what it's like to weld with one. Info on how it welds would help. What I have heard is very mixed from you can get as good of results from it as tig to its junk. It sounds like it takes a lot of manual skill to get good results. Let us know what you find out with using the carbon ark welder. Another fine post my friend.

kill-a-watt (author)erik_mccray2010-12-31

Not my vid, but this guy shows localized heating of metal with his carbon arc.


rimar2000 (author)kill-a-watt2011-01-01

Maybe I can get someone to film me while I use the gadget. It is difficult to photograph the cherry red color of iron when you have to do several things before taking the picture. Either way, a "before and after" is illustrative, only that it is questionable whether it is a fake.

erik_mccray (author)rimar20002011-01-02

I think some hand drawings with a good write up on how it works on different joints & metals would go a long way. I can get videos & pictures of a carbon ark but not a lot on using a carbon ark.

rimar2000 (author)erik_mccray2010-12-31

I can try it, Erik, but it is difficult for two reasons: 1) I have no helper; 2) the light from the arc is too intense for recording a video in action.

Nevertheless, I will try to do a "before and after", maybe that will be sufficient.

About the opinions, I learned to don't hear others, because i.e. a film can be the best of the universe for you, and the worst for me.

The stick welding requires a lot of manual skill too; if you look my weldings, they are ugly, ugly, ugly, but enough good for my needs.

Pay attention also to the "one carbon arc torch", it is very useful sometimes.

Thanks for your concern!

kill-a-watt (author)2010-12-30

With the new carbon arcs I see! Working better than the battery cells?

I need to make one of these!

rimar2000 (author)kill-a-watt2010-12-30

I don't understand your question, pardon.

It is easy to make! And very cheap, almost free.

kill-a-watt (author)rimar20002010-12-31

I thought you were the one who taught me how to salvage carbon arc rods from dry-cells.

I see you are using the copper-coated carbon arc rods which you said were hard to find in your country.

:-)

rimar2000 (author)kill-a-watt2010-12-31

I'm glad to know I was helpful, thanks for saying it!

Yes, I found these rods in "La Casa del Soldador" (Welder's House) in La Plata, about 20 km from my home.

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