I decided straight away that it didn't need to work as a controller...as I thought the novelty would become a bit old before too long. Instead I wanted something that was a bit subtle, looked good, and showed off some nice wood.
Here's how I made mine.....
Step 1: Measure up
Step 2: Design
I didn't stick too rigidly to the plan...I'm a bit of a geek though so it was important to me to get the top spot on.
Step 3: Let the build commence!
Black - Oak
Grey - Maple
Red - Mahogany
I was thinking of using walnut for the black bits...but I really like oak!
First up I went to my local timber yard and selected some nice bits of oak, and got a few maple & mahogany offcuts too.
I cut the oak roughly to size, and fed it to my planer/thicknesser until I had some nice square bits of wood.
Then I glued it together using "Resintite" wood glue (kinda like Urea-formaldehyde adhesive), and plenty of clamps.
When dry the glue got scraped off and I had a good go at it with a belt sander.
Not pictured here...but I got some glass cut at this stage for the top (as I didn't trust them to cut it accurately enough later). Then I cut the oak panel to match the glass.
Step 4: Rebates for inlays
I drilled little pilot holes and drilled all the corners with a forstner bit. Then scored in lines between the edges of each corner with a sharp knife.
I then took out the bulk using my router at a depth of 4mm. All the rest was taken out with chisel & mallet.
A long day of chiseling later, and all the rebates were done!
Step 5: Maple inlay
With a lot of patience I shaped all the maple so it slotted perfectly into the rebates.
Then they got glued & clamped in place, and sanded flush with a belt sander.
Step 6: D-Pad
It needed a 6mm maple edging though. So I made a template off it using a flush bit in my router, then I rebated off the template with a 6mm rebating bit.
I thicknessed some maple to 6mm and worked it to surround the cross.
Then glued...clamped....sanded flush
Annoyingly, the oak I used for the cross looked completely different from the rest of the tabletop. I recommend just making a 6mm channel and filling it with maple instead.
Step 7: Marking out letters
I found a NES font & nintendo logo and added them to my CAD drawing.
I put masking tape over everywhere there were words on the tabletop, and projected my drawing onto it.
Then traced around the projected words with a pen, and cut through the tape to score the letters into the oak.
This also provided me with a perfect template for the mahogany inlay.
Step 8: The road to madness
I then shaped the mahogany by hand to fit perfectly into the rebates....this took flippin ages...seriously, it was fiddly and delicate and almost drove me insane!
Everything got glued/clamped/sanded flush.
I'm really glad I took my time over this...came out really nice!
Step 9: A/B buttons
The rebate was made using a router and a little chiseling.
Then I made some circles from mahogany by hand and they got glued/clamped/sanded flush.
The oak start/select button got done in a similar manner (sorry, not pictured)
Step 10: Maple edging
Then I planed down the last of my maple, cut it to size, and mitred the corners. They were made to stick above the surface by 4mm so the glass should slip nicely into place.
They got biscuited and glued in place, with a bit of oak veneer in the corners cos I cut them too short....looks good though, lets just say I did on purpose eh?
Step 12: Legs
Then marked out the ends, and cut the mortices for rails...using a morticer. I then cut them to length.
I decided to put tapers on the legs, so made a jig for my table saw.
The tapers looked great...but left me with some scorch marks that took ages to sand out.
Step 13: Rails
For the rail on the front I marked out where I wanted the draws and drilled all the way through with a forstner bit.
I then cut between the holes with a jigsaw to take out the bulk.
The edges were formed by tracing along a straight edge with a flush bit in the ol' router...then I spent too damn long sanding off the burn marks that left me!
Step 14: Drawers
I then made the runners for the drawer from some more softwood I had in the shed...I've always struggled with drawers in the past so totally over engineered em to give as little play as possible, but without being too tight.
Then I made the drawer fronts so there would be about 1mm gap around them and the face rail.
Step 15: Glue it together
I then sanded it down to 240grit, gave it a good coat of sanding sealant, sanded it down to 400grit, and waxed.
I glued the drawer fronts in place with the drawer closed so I knew they'd fit just right.
Last of all I attached a "push to open" fixing to the rear of the draw - you push it in a mm or so and it pops open by itself, meaning there's no need for for handles on the front.