NG V2 K'nex Gun





Introduction: NG V2 K'nex Gun

About: I do K'nex...a lot. It's fun to mess around with new mechanisms, and to learn about basic engineering. I build mostly guns, and love to build new concepts. I will start posting some of my 'unposted ideas' in...

Hey guys! This is an improved version of my NG V1, and it requires no broken pieces except for the ammo. This is almost the same thing as my V1, except for the barrel design and overall look of the gun. The stats are mostly the same, except for the broken pieces, of course, although there is one major difference that I have found. This gun has more kick than the original. I don;t know why it has more, but it does. The range is the same, and everything else is very similar. I think I like the look of the V1 better, but that's just my opinion. Also, this version is not magazine fed, and is muzzle-loaded.

I'm planning on making the V3 a shotgun that shoots yellow rods, and it will be magazine fed. Thanks for checking out this gun! Please give me your feedback on it, and I'll take any suggestions you have for the V3!

There is a link to the V1 here for more information.

Step 1: Internals

Hey, these are just a couple pictures of internals that were requested. The first picture just shows the barrel with the ram in, and the second shows it with the trigger engaged.



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    22 Discussions

    Hey, Hey, Hey, I said I'd give you a shoutout, well! On my 'model airplanes' instructable, I've put your name up there, it's not k'nex, but other people will still look at your guns, probably.

    At least I hope they do. And please, I know it isn't k'nex but you and everyone reading this, please vote for me in the 3d contest.

    2 replies

    I know it's been awhile since this initial post, and it's been equally long since I commented on your first version, but I'm still contemplating what I talked about on the V1. Does this larger ramrod increase range? You seem to think so as your now probably building your 3 version, and the physics behind it also make sense to me (Inertia, and collisions all that good stuff). I think it's just one of those thing that no matter how many times I see it I will not be able to comprehend it, which also means, I need to try it myself.

    Good job as always, you have convinced me to make a prototype myself to see what the heck this large ramrod is capable of.

    5 replies

    Thanks! Really, the big ram-rod was meant to be able to have a larger force against it, which means more rubber-bands, and as soon as I get it to adapt to yellow rods, it will be able to receive longer ranges.

    That is true Knex guy. But, if you had a really short pin then surely you can get more 'usable force out of it, what I mean by this is if the pin is really long, then the bands will hit the bullet when they are at the least stretchy. Because the most force will be at the position of the trigger, the bands will be stretched the furthest. However, when they hit the bullet they have not stretched far. The longer the pin, the bigger the difference between full power and little power, you want that to be the very small, because there will be more of the 'usable' power at the point it hits the bullet?

    Saying this though, the longer the pin pull the more momentum the pin will carry, like the longer a barrel on a slingshot gun?

    Tell me what you think, I honestly believe in both the points I've made, and think they kinda counteract each other, but I have found that a longer pin and pin pull, the better the power output.

    WOW, that took me ages to write!

    I agree with everything said there, and I will try to incorporate those ideas into future versions. Thanks for the feedback!

    I found out something new that could help, my new gun will be published in a few days, and when test firing it, I found it much more effective when the bullet was much closer to the pin, you see, it got a little stuck about 1/2 inch infront of the trigger, which seemed to decrease range on many occasions.

    I always do tests on my guns to see how they peform best.

    I almost like the direction you're going with this. Your physics is a little off, though. You should try to make a lighter pin that still uses your rail system. Maybe even add a long rod to the front of the pin.

    Warning: It's about to get amateur physics in here.

    For shooting far, the biggest factor is actually how much you can get the firing pin (and the ammo) to deform and compress when it hits. The pin acts like a really stiff spring because it's made of flexible plastic. The firing pin has kinetic energy, but it can only transfer a certain amount to the ammo. That's why pins break when you have too many bands on; not enough energy going to the ammo. The pin compression turns the kinetic energy into what I call "spontaneous" energy. When the pin hits and compresses, it's still in contact, and transferring energy to the ammo. The time that the pin and the ammo are in contact is directly proportionate to the amount of energy transferred.

    The reason that you want a pin to be lighter is because it can move faster. Being faster makes the collision last longer. The reason that you want a long rod is so that it can act like a spring that transfers energy.

    1 reply

    Thanks! Right now I am actually designing a rod like this that will be more hollow, and will be faster. And I am also possibly adding a rod on the front to adapt it to yellow rods. Right now, it can shoot red rods, and will be posted soon. I might use some of your concepts in the V4!

    I'm not a pro with knex but i know you could pull off something awesome. I would challenge you to make a working pump action shotgun that looks fairly realistic.

    1 reply