Natural Beeswax Wood Polish





Introduction: Natural Beeswax Wood Polish

About: I like making stuff.

I make a lot of wooden projects. There are a million different ways to finish a wood project but my favorite finish is a wax/oil blend. Otherwise known as a wax polish. This wood polish is a 1:3 ratio. I made a video to help explain the process.

If you dont feel like making this I also sell it in my etsy store.

Step 1: Tools & Materials

Affiliate links

1. Pure Tung oil or Mineral Oil

2. Crock Pot

3. Beeswax

4. Tins or container for finshed product

Step 2: Melting the Wax

This ratio will give you 8 oz of wood polish.

Measure out 2 oz of beeswax and pour it into the crock pot. My crock pot didnt have any heat setting so I assume it was on low. This took about a hour to melt but I would use a crock pot that you could put on high. Make sure you stay next to wax because beeswax is flammable.

Step 3: Adding the Oil

Pour out 6 oz of oil.

Once the wax is melted slowly add in the oil. Since the oil is colder than the wax it will start to clump up. Just keep stirring it and it will melt back down in a few minutes. I used a small dowel to mix everything together.

Step 4: Pouring the Wax Into Containers

I transferred the melted wax polish to a measuring cup to make it easier to pour into the cans. Make sure to wear oven mitts since the pot will be hot. I poured my wax into two 4 oz tins. Now wait a few hour for them to harden up before use.

Step 5: Enjoy Your New Wax Polish

This is a good project for any level of skill. Use a dry cloth to rub some polish into the wood. Wait a few minutes and come back with a different section of the cloth and buff it out to a nice sheen. This wax polish makes the wood super soft to the touch. Its basically as soft a baby's bottom. Let me know in the comments if you make some or have any questions.

2 People Made This Project!


  • Make it Move Contest

    Make it Move Contest
  • Oil Contest

    Oil Contest
  • Woodworking Contest

    Woodworking Contest

We have a be nice policy.
Please be positive and constructive.


50+ years ago I learned a similar formula from a man as old and seasoned as I am now. He used 1/3 beeswax, 1/3 linseed oil and 1/3 Paint thinner. (Not for food prep surfaces.) Worked fine.

6 Questions

Can this be used on painted wood just to make it shine.The paint is matte finish and I would like it to shine without repainting


Can you use veg oil


Generally a very bad idea. The vegetable oil will go rancid as it is exposed to oxygen. Tung oil, cutting board oil (generally just mineral oil--without fragrances), boiled linseed oil, and other oils meant to be used as wood finishes will not go rancid.

If you want a food-safe finish, use mineral oil. It is inexpensive at drug stores--just make sure you get pure mineral oil with no fragrances, and definitely not "baby oil" (which is mineral oil with fragrance). And, if you use mineral oil, the polish makes a very good skin moisturizer (so feel free to get the polish all over your hands as you finish your cutting board, then rub it in to your hands for soft skin).

1 more answer


No. Veg oil will turn rancid over time.

Can this be used as furniture polish on wood that is already finished or is it meant for unfinished wood only?


It can be applied on top of other finishes.

Just wondering if it would work as well to warm the oil, then stir in the beeswax and let it melt?

My Great Uncle used beeswax polish on all the beautiful furniture he built, but I was a little kid at the time and never learned how he made the polish. Thanks!!


That would probably work well. You can set the bottle of oil in warm water then it shouldn’t make the wax clump up when you add it.

This could be use instead of a varnish coat? It protects the wood against marks or stains?


It does, but only partially, and you have to redo it periodically.

The wax goes into the wood pores, but doesn't seal the wood completely. If something wet, like red wine or blueberry juice, isn't cleaned quickly, it goes deep into the wood and stains it permanently. If something less fluid, like ash or charcoal, falls onto the wood, it doesn't go deep into the pores, can be cleaned off by rubbing the wood thoroughly, and then the waxing can be redone. Without the wax, even cocoa powder would get a hold onto wood, making it close to impossible to clean.

I use beeswax un-mixed with oil to once in a blue moon (that's maybe every five of seven years) redo a wooden board I use for kneading dough - I repeatedly heat it with a heat gun and rub it in. Without the wax, dough sticks quite easily to the board. With the wax, it has to be really-really sticky to stick. Even then, it's rather easy to rub off. However, I don't much care about stains on that board, nor does it usually get in touch with staining things. The occasional re-waxing keeps the wood's look fresh, as if it was just sawn.

2 more answers


On items that come into contact with foods, (Wooden spoons, cutting boards etc.) Use this instead of varnish. I make this as well, except I use mineral oil, which is food safe.


It depends. If your making a table I would probably use a varnish for most other things it should hold up well. Polished like this is commanly used in cuttinging boards so it should be ok standing up again stains.


What is the clean up process for the crock pot? How wearable is the wood finish? Can you use any wood finishing oil as the oil? In your example you appear to use tung oi, will other oils work? Is there a best oil to use?


I've found that bar keepers friend works pretty good for cleaning up wax and propolis, however it's probably pretty bad for the croc pot.

1 more answer


For the crock pot I let it cool a bit and when it is warm i use a paper towel to wipe it out. The wood finish appears to hold up pretty well. But if the item was gonna sit outside a lot I would prob go with something else. I think pure tung oil or mineral oil is the best to use. You can also use walnut oil, coconut oil, and raw linseed oil. Hope this helps.


Thanks for your mixing ratio. I use mineral oil that you can buy at most pharmacies and wally world for a lot less than it costs from a dealer who puts a fancy name on it.

3 replies

Very cool. Always happy to share information.


IKEA has the best price for mineral oil:)

Great idea to use Tung oil for the wax! I will definitely try this combination (I previously tried mineral oil and beeswax).

Ill have to check out IKEA thanks.

Good to use on vintage oil finished military gunstocks. It's a pretty authentic USGI treatment.

3 replies

The traditional gunstock finish was hand rubbed raw Linseed oil and warmed in front of a fire. The heat speeds up polymerisation, with gunstocks beeswax was often used after the oil. Tung oil 'dries' faster and harder, boiled Linseed oil has added driers and one is commonly Tung oil.

Oil finish is my preference on a gunstock as it looks and feels nice and is easy to repair dings.

Original gunstock finishes depend on the location as well as what
was available. In 18th century America, the premium was Chinawood oil,
but because of it's rarity and exceedingly high cost, the typical finish
was an oil varnish each individual gunmaker made themselves by cooking
raw linseed oil with rosin, KOH, white lead and limestone. Some
gunmakers used pine tar or spar varnish. Raw linseed was not really used
on gunstocks until the mass production of rifles for WWI and it has
since been used on military wood stocks precisely because it cures so
slowly and can be easily refreshed with a bit more raw oil without any
special preparation of finishing being required. There are no historical
records to even suggest that any waxes or wax-oil blends were ever used
on gunstocks. All such wax-oil blends were used as a cheap and fast
method of finishing furniture and needed to be refreshed quire
regularly. Linseed oil finish is inferior to a Chinawood oil finish.

Tung oil or China wood oil is a drying oil obtained by pressing the seed from the nut of the tung tree (Vernicia fordii). Tung oil hardens upon exposure to air, and the resulting coating is transparent and has a deep, almost wet look. Used mostly for finishing/protecting wood, after numerous coats the finish can even look plastic-like.

Thank you! I live in Brazil and we use linseed oil for some application. Also we use "peroba" oil. Peroba is a timber tree, very hard and red color. This wood is used in house construction and it is rare now.

It's the oil from the Tung tree! I it is a natural oil, with no hydrocarbon- based oil elements. am not sure what country you live in, but tung oil can be bought in many countries in a hardware store.

Thank you! I live in Brazil and we use linseed oil for some application. Also we use "peroba" oil. perobe os a timber tree, very hard, and red color. This wood is used in house construction and it is very rare now.

Pinterest is preventing me from saving this, saying it may have inappropriate content! Grrr! I think it may be because of the "baby's bottom" comment.

I use the same method of mixing however I use Grapeseed oil (from the Supermarket) instead of Parrafin, I have been using this as a foodsafe finish for a couple of years.

Love your video. You have a wonderful voice for this media. Pleasant to listen to and easy to understand the steps. You did a great job and I might try to do this myself for caring for my cutting boards and rolling pins. Thanks.

1 reply

Thanks! I always hate hearing my own voice when I edit those videos. If you use it for rolling pins use mineral oil instead of Tung Oil.

Great 'ible! I make my own wood project finishing oil as well and can tell you that coconut oil does get rancid. Also walnut oil is commonly olive oil with walnut 'flavoring' added.