Nerf Maverick Air Restrictor, Barrel Lock Removal





Introduction: Nerf Maverick Air Restrictor, Barrel Lock Removal

So, this is a basic tutorial on removing the Nerf Maverick's air restrictors, increasing power, and removing the barrel locks, which allow the barrels to slide out farther, making reloading easier, plus a few minor mods that help increase power. 

What you'll need:
1x Nerf Maverick
1x Screwdriver
1x  Knife 
1x Needlenose Pliers
2x Pennies
1x 19mm felt pad

Silicone-based lubricant (check and make sure that it's safe for both metal and plastic)

Step 1: Removing the Slide

1. Remove the three screws on the slide. Those are the only three screws that you'll deal with that are a different length than the others, so store them separately! Pull the slide apart, ensuring that the spring + tab combination on the right-hand part of the slide doesn't fall off.

2. There are eight screws, all the same length, on the outside of the Maverick. Remove them all and set them to the side.

1. Once all of the screws are removed from the outside of the gun, pry apart the two halves. If they refuse to separate, carefully pry them apart with a knife or another thin tool.

Step 2:

2. Now that the inner workings of the gun are revealed, carefully remove the large spring and set it aside. Then, remove the barrel assembly from the rest of the gun. This is a little easier if you press the magazine release button while doing it.

3. Pry the front hinge off of the barrel (Pic 2) using a screwdriver or similar item. This might take a while. Once it is removed, let the metal axle piece fall from the barrel assembly. (Pic 3) There's a small spring on the back of the axle. Make sure you don't lose it!

4. There are three screws on the back of the barrel assembly (Pic 4). Remove all of them and set them aside. 

5. Remove the back of the barrel assembly (Pic 5). 

6. Remove the orange caps from each barrel (Pic 6). Below each one should be a small spring, and a smaller three-pronged piece. These are the air restrictors. Remove them, then replace the orange caps. Once you've done so, reassemble the barrel. Be sure to put the screws back in!

Step 3:

Now that the air restrictors are removed, it's time for the bolt lock. Put down the barrel assembly. Pick up the front hinge piece (Pic 1). 

On the front of the front hinge piece is a small rectangular protrusion. This is the first half of the magazine lock. Cut it off. Once you're finished, make sure the surface is fairly smooth. (Pic 2). Once you're finished, reassemble the barrel assembly. If you're confused about how to do so, refer to step 2.

The second magazine lock is located on the left side of the gun (Pic 3). It's a part of the frame, so just carve it down until it's no longer there. (Pic 4)

Step 4: Increasing Spring Power, Reassembly

Now that the barrel locks have been removed, it's time to turn our attention back to the main body of the Maverick. Remove the spring and plunger assembly. (Pic 1) 

Now, remember those two pennies and that felt pad? Grab 'em. Stick one of the pennies to the felt pad, and put the pennies (felt towards the back) in the back of the gun, where the spring used to reside. 

Now, cut/shave down the cross on the back of the plunger assembly. It doesn't have to be neat, it just needs to be cut down, and the top of the cross should be even. (Pic 2)

Once that's complete, put the plunger assembly and spring back into the gun. (Pic 3)

Step 5: Finishing the Reassembly

Now that you've replaced the plunger and spring assembly, it's time to put the barrel(s) back into the main body of the gun.

Once you're sure the internals are in order (see Pic 1), put the two halves of the Maverick together, then replace the screws. 

Finally, assemble the slide. Remember to hook the spring (noted in Pic 1) back onto the slide.

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What is the purpose of removing the barrel locks?

It allows the barrel to fall out when you unlock it. It's pretty much for if you have another barrel. but even if you don't have another one, it allows for much easier, faster reloads.

I am cereal. I can't get the front hitch off!!!

Get a set of needlenose pliers. Put each "nose" under each side of the swivel on either side of the pin. And GENTLY pry up. Either end of the pin will pull free. Its held by friiction teeth.

Where do you get felt pads?

I only see one screw in the slide where are the other two?

One is in the back by the hole and the other is on top of the slide and one is in a small hole on the back of the tactical rail.

(And here is a picture)

I really like the mod because it is so easy to do but one problem I ran into was that I shaved the front cross instead of the back.

I'm having trouble posting replies due to CAPTCHA issues, I was trying to reply to Arx:

I agree with Arx, so many people recommend removing the "air restrictor", but it's there to protect the piston - not to limit the speed of the projectile! A more accurate name would be "piston brake", "anti-hammering valve", or similar. I'm only guessing here, but it might actually help with accuracy too, if it stops the piston from pushing out extra air once the dart has already started moving down the barrel. Adding more air-pressure while the dart is in-flight down the barrel will probably mess with the dart's trajectory, and may be why people see significantly more 'spread' with AR-removed Nerf guns.

I've just upgraded my Nerf with a more powerful spring, and I'm glad I left the 'air restrictor' in place - even with a spring that's nearly twice as strong (in pressure) as the last, the piston brake still helps slow down the piston after the dart has fired.

To anyone modding their Nerf I recommend tracking down a larger spring that suits your blaster, before you remove the AR. If you're unhappy with performance with a new spring alone, then you could always remove the AR as a last measure.

Thanks for the thorough instructable, good stuff :)