Step 4: Increasing Spring Power, Reassembly

Now that the barrel locks have been removed, it's time to turn our attention back to the main body of the Maverick. Remove the spring and plunger assembly. (Pic 1) 

Now, remember those two pennies and that felt pad? Grab 'em. Stick one of the pennies to the felt pad, and put the pennies (felt towards the back) in the back of the gun, where the spring used to reside. 

Now, cut/shave down the cross on the back of the plunger assembly. It doesn't have to be neat, it just needs to be cut down, and the top of the cross should be even. (Pic 2)

Once that's complete, put the plunger assembly and spring back into the gun. (Pic 3)

I'm having trouble posting replies due to CAPTCHA issues, I was trying to reply to Arx:<br> <br> I agree with Arx, so many people recommend removing the &quot;air restrictor&quot;, but it's there to protect the piston - not to limit the speed of the projectile! A more accurate name would be &quot;piston brake&quot;, &quot;anti-hammering valve&quot;, or similar. I'm only guessing here, but it might actually help with accuracy too, if it stops the piston from pushing out extra air once the dart has already started moving down the barrel. Adding more air-pressure while the dart is in-flight down the barrel will probably mess with the dart's trajectory, and may be why people see significantly more 'spread' with AR-removed Nerf guns.<br> <br> I've just upgraded my Nerf with a more powerful spring, and I'm glad I left the 'air restrictor' in place - even with a spring that's nearly twice as strong (in pressure) as the last, the piston brake still helps slow down the piston after the dart has fired.<br> <br> To anyone modding their Nerf I recommend tracking down a larger spring that suits your blaster, before you remove the AR. If you're unhappy with performance with a new spring alone, then you could always remove the AR as a last measure.<br> <br> Thanks for the thorough instructable, good stuff :)
You are just plain stupid. Have you ever done a nerf mod before? The air restrictor does nothing to the plunger.
<p>I just put some cardboard in the plunger to soften the blow, the gun's more powerful and it's not taking so much damage</p>
<p>lmao so ez im mlg lmao lmao lmao u guys r scrubs</p>
<p>just a small mod lmao took 10 minutes</p>
Thats a really short time. I've done a 1995 crossbow mod which took multiple days just for the epoxy to dry
<p>if u cant do it ur a scrub</p>
<p>Bubbles lmao lmao lmao lmao</p>
What is the purpose of removing the barrel locks?
<p>I am cereal. I can't get the front hitch off!!!</p>
Get a set of needlenose pliers. Put each &quot;nose&quot; under each side of the swivel on either side of the pin. And GENTLY pry up. Either end of the pin will pull free. Its held by friiction teeth.
<p>Where do you get felt pads?</p>
<p>I only see one screw in the slide where are the other two?</p>
<p> One is in the back by the hole and the other is on top of the slide and one is in a small hole on the back of the tactical rail.</p><p>(And here is a picture)</p>
<p>I really like the mod because it is so easy to do but one problem I ran into was that I shaved the front cross instead of the back.</p>
<p>This project just got mentioned on Engadget!</p><p><a href="http://www.engadget.com/2015/02/15/nerf-rival-and-n-strike-modulus/" rel="nofollow">http://www.engadget.com/2015/02/15/nerf-rival-and-...</a></p>
<p>I didn't add the &quot;Russian roulette&quot; mod, but I did ar removal and penny mod. </p><p>Btw three American pennies work well. </p>
Thanks for posting! It made a three year old maverick shoot like new:)
<p>It did not cock, so I went back and troubleshooted until I found the problem. </p><p>As it turns out the orange piece that is seen through the slot where the pin on the cocking slide should go needs to be cocked all the way back before the gun is reassembled. </p>
Great work!! Loved it!
<p>Nice pocket knife I have the same one.</p>
It is hard to take the grey thing off the end of the barrel.<br/>
Mine maverick is kinda broken will it still work?
<br>I've just upgraded my Nerf with a more powerful spring, and I'm glad I left the 'air restrictor' in place - even with a spring that's nearly twice as strong (in pressure) as the last, the piston brake still helps slow down the piston after the dart has fired. <br> <br>To anyone modding their Nerf I recommend tracking down a larger spring that suits your blaster, before you remove the AR. If you're unhappy with performance with a new spring alone, then you could always remove the AR as a last measure. <br> <br>Thanks for the thorough instructable, good stuff :)
I did the AR mod and penny mod, didn't chop the orange sticks off but my maverick isn't shooting any further.PLZ HELP somebody! VRY VRY thanx in advance. also my darts dont fly strait after travelling 5-6 feet they tend to go down and dont hit the target! I just wanna know if this same prob is happenin 2 everybody??????
Very clear and easy to follow instructions. Thank you for a job well done.
i would recommend to not to remove the restrictors cuz it gives u a huge disadvtange imho. arrows fly less steady and far. <br> <br>the barrel mod is nice but optional. <br> <br>certainly go for the coin mod. <br> <br>glueing the clutch is a must! <br> <br>oh and this is nice too: http://fritzing.org/projects/nerf-upgrade/ <br> <br>i will post pix on fritzing if i finish the project.
Removing the air restrictors has zero negative effect if you use new or good condition darts, or anything other than streamlines. Also, the entire point of removing them in the first place is to increase range by a substantial amount. You seem to not know that much about Nerf modifications or how Mavericks work, since your project is completely useless to anyone who can count the number of times they've fired, which is everyone old enough to use one.
Hahaha, next step is to build a Nite-Mav. <br>http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20298&amp;st=0&amp;p=286341&amp;hl=+nite%20+mav&amp;fromsearch=1&amp;#entry286341
When removing the AR,.you can drill out the peg so it can accommodate nerf streamline darts. Otherwise the peg will keep the streamlines from fitting correctly. Just make sure to place the spacers back on after for a good seal. Otherwise neat write-up with clean pics.
I've never had an issue with using Streamlines in any of the Mavericks I've tested. The Streamlines don't fly quite as straight as Whistlers, but they seem to work fairly well. I'll try removing the pegs from one of my Mavericks, see if it helps.
I've been in to modding my Nerf/s for a while, and I've gone and removed the air restrictors from two mavericks, a spectre, a firefly, and a raider (as well as a bunch of non-nerf brand ones as well) . In all but one of the cases (the firefly), removal of the air restrictors have either not caused any problems, or was beneficial, when firing streamlines. <br>The firefly is an exception, it didn't like streamlines before, and it doesn't fire them reliably after. I think mine is just a bit &quot;different&quot;, becasue I've been able to fire streamline reliably from my friend's firefly without problems. I guess some just don't like streamlines. <br> <br>Fully removing the pegs would do two important things: <br>1) It would allow the blaster to use &quot;stefans&quot; (home-made darts), which tend to not be hollow in the centre, <br>2) By fully removing the peg, cutting/drilling it out, so that it is disconnected by the supports that the three-prong piece fits through, you open it up to allow for much more airflow through, giving you superior ranges. <br> <br>I hope this helps, If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
Thanks for the information! I wrote this guide for people who want basic, simple mods for their Maverick. However, it seems as if removing the pegs is fairly easy, and beneficial I'll add it to the guide once I've tested it. <br> <br>On that subject, have you ever had issues with darts slipping out of the barrels once the pegs have been removed?
I have not had any problems with Nerf-brand darts slipping out of the barrel, and during &quot;research&quot; (playing around with Nerf darts and scrap pegs) on the issue, I have been able to determine that the peg doesn't actually play a part in retaining the dart in the barrel, as the external diameter of the peg is significantly less than the internal diameter of the tube in to which it fits.<br> If you do encounter issues with darts slipping out of the barrels, you could look in to either re-barrelling the turret, or lining the existing barrels with some kind of material that will make the darts fit tighter.<br><br>I should note that in some non-nerf brand blasters, in particular one called the &quot;snipe shot&quot; by BuzzBee (its a piece of absolute junk, don't buy it), the peg is what holds the darts in place. Thankfully, no Nerf-brand products use this technique the retain darts.
What is the can of lube for? It is not in any of the steps...
The &quot;Air Restrictor&quot; that everyone seems to like removing is not actually there to slow down the dart or anything, but to slow down the piston after the dart is moving. <br> <br>Try firing without a dart sometime (on an unmodified nerf) and you'll see how it works. <br> <br>If you want to take it out, realize that the piston will now be slamming into its stop, instead of having the air vents close, slowing it to a halt. It'll probably break eventually.
I do understand the purpose of the air restrictor, and yes, it can reduce the lifespan of the gun, especially if you dry-fire it. That being said, they do reduce the power of the weapon. It's possible to reduce wear and tear on the plunger by padding the inside of the plunger assembly. I'll see if I can add a step for this. <br> <br>
Would love to see before and after videos of the gun in action!
Thanks for tell us how to get the hinge off. I have read other instructables, but they don't tell you how. I tried to get the air restrictor out, but I couldn't get the hinge off.

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