Introduction: Nerf Rapidstrike Modding Guide Pt.2
16.8v & 12.6v
"Always re-wire the motors and remove any inductors provided by nerf if you want the most out of your gun"
I'm not going to show you how to re-wire the motors because there are a lot of good video's you can follow on YouTube for that.....
The first night I had the gun I tried running 16.8v straight because I saw some guy do it on YouTube.....Well he failed to mention that the gun doesn't stop firing after the trigger is still released. A common fix is to use a separate 9 volt battery hooked directly to the push arm switch assembly. Now while this is a suitable fix, it does get costly because 9 volt batteries are expensive and they don't have the ROF (rate of fire) that 12.6 volts can provide.....
Let's start with the battery tray.
-You're going to need to find the main POSITIVE wire or side, and from where the battery would sit --solder a new wire on the NEGATIVE side of the tray. SEE PIC
Step 1: PUSH ARM Re-Wiring
In stock form there is a RED wire and a GREEN wire connected to the push arm assembly switch.....(SEE PIC). They are the positives directly linked from the battery tray. The red wire is going to be the new wire (12.6v) from the new battery tray.
Step 2: Flywheel Switch Re-Wire
Find the two white wires located on the flywheel switch.....The small white wire needs to be clipped from the Trigger switch assembly above it and replaced with the main positive wire directly from the new battery tray (16.8 volts).
-This should complete the Voltage Mod :)
Step 3: FIREFLY TECH
Okay so here's my take on the whole thing, - there's a lot of re-wiring if you're going to be doing the intergrated FIREFLY set up so just know that it's not going to be easy if your a beginning modder.....
Step 4: Push Rod Housing
Unscrew the housing unit. Inside you'll find the push rod arm, and take it out.....
Step 5: Dissasemble the Arm
Take a tiny screwdriver and pry the tabs on the inside to seperate the two halves of the front of the push arm.
There's a little spring that sits between them. You're not going to need it any more...
Step 6: Arm Apart
Step 7: LED 3mm UltraViolet
You're going need a 3mm UV LED and bend the leads in a 90 degree angle as shown in the pic.
-more on that later.....
Step 8: Inserting the LED
Slide the leads from the LED front to back then upwards so the leads stick straight up.
Step 9: Arm Re-Assembled
When you put it back together, the bottom half with the LED should look like this..... You're going to have to glue the bottom half back to the main arm. You can use a hot glue gun to keep it in place but, I advise using super glue if you use 12.6 volts for durability.
-When your finished place the arm assembly back into the housing unit and screw it back together.
Step 10: Arm Housing Unit Wiring
After the unit is put back together solder the two wires for the positive and negative with heat shrink tubes.
-Heat shrink tube lenght is apprx. 1 and 1/4 inches long.
Fill the area between the LED and wires with Hot Glue or use Liquid Tape as shown in the pic to keep the leads from accidentally touching under high stress. It also keeps the set up rigid so it does not come apart when moving back and forth.
Step 11: Wire Lenght
I used the Blue & Black wires from the access switch because I felt like I did'nt need that switch anymore..... Start by soldering them to the LED then "TWIST" the wires back until you reach exactly 6 inches. Any less than that and you risk the wires getting pulled and the LED ripped out from the arm movement.
Step 12: Double Check
Make sure that from the green marks you get 6 inches. The pic is what it should look like when your done with it and ready to connect it to a switch!!!
Step 13: Switch Placement
It was the only place I could think of at the time but feel free to place it any where you want. I like using slide switches but it's always easier mounting a round hole type switch like a push button or toggle.
Step 14: Resistors
I'm using a helicopter Li-po battery 3.7v for the LED's. They require 10ohms each so I just twisted together two of them at the end and I'll be soldering that to the switch. Then from the switch to the Negative of the Li-po battery.
If you don't feel like using a Li-po you can also fit a "AAA" Li-ion Trustfire battery in place. I tried fitting a 9 volt in the side and it just does not fit.
Step 15: Problem Areas
If your going to be placing the switch in the bottom area where I put mine it's a good idea to cross the wires that connect to the resistors over to the left as shown in the pic. This prevents the stock from "PINCHING" the wires when it closes.
Step 16: Front LED Snips
Clip about 2 16th of an inch in both side for the front LED to fit into.....
Step 17: Front LED Finished
So this is what it should look like when your done with the front LED.....It's always a good idea to sand the LED Flat a little so the glue sticks to the plastic and the LED better.
-The LED is only glued to the right portion of the flywheel housing so that you can still take it apart when needed.
-Try and keep the leads bent along the curve of the housing to prevent the access door from touching it when closing.
Step 18: Firefly Battery Tray
Here's how I marked the cut for my Li-po battery. I used masking tape so I could draw a line where I wanted to cut.
Step 19: Firefly Tech Finished!!
This is what it should look like when your done.....
-Using UV LED's this way will produce 3x more glow than using the Firefly clip made from Nerf!!!
Step 20: Access Cuts
To make sure that the "TWISTED" LED wiring doesn't get cramped while moving back and forth cut the access door along backside as shown in the pic.
Step 21: The Yellow Wire
If you happen to take out the access door switch the yellow wire needs to be re-wired to purple wire located on the trigger switch.
in the picture.
From here your gun should be able to should well and with a higher ROF than using a 9 volt battery plus have intergrated Firefly technology. The rest of the stuff you might see in the pic is just extra things that I'll cover in pt.3 of the modding guide.