In this Instructable, I will be documenting the modifications I make to my new NERF Vulcan EBF - 25 fully automatic Nerf gun.

Many of these modifications are NOT REVERSIBLE , and, if done wrong, will result in irreparable damage to the gun.

Also, i know it's kind of obvious, but performing ANY of these modifications will immediately void the warranty, so don't complain that the store refused to take beck your broken gun! - Note, Some people have commented that Wallmart took back their broken guns after failed mods. THIS IS NOT NORMAL! Toy companies do not follow the maker's creed of "If you can't open it, you don't own it!"

I will also point out key parts that I think should be made of metal, along with CAD drawings of said parts.

All the images in this instructable are available in high quality (so you can actually see what I'm talking about). Just click the boxed "i" in the top left of the image, and click "Original File"!

And, as always, wear safety glasses when playing with modified NERF guns, the darts won't have much of a problem giving you a black eye!

DO NOT MOD A NERF GUN WITH BATTERIES IN IT! 9 volts isn't a lot, until you add current!

The steps are numbered in the following manner:

M # P #, Name
meaning: Mod # Part #, Name (if first part)

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Step 1: Pre Mod Stats

Here are the stats on the gun, Pre-Mod:

Flight Distance:
Initial 50.27777778'
Bounce 5.861111111'
Total 56.13888889'

Looking at these numbers, the gun did really well pre-mod, better than any other Nerf gun I've used.

Step 2: M1 P1, Belt Air Restrictor Removal

The belt on the Nerf Vulcan has some annoying air restrictors in it that need to be removed, but, if you cut too much plastic, the gun won't work.

This mod doesn't do much on it's own, but combined with the removal of other air restrictors, it's incredible.

Step 3: M1 P2

I used a drill bit and a knife to hollow out the tube, but anything that gets the job done should work.

This is a long and tedious mod, since it has to be repeated many times.

However, it's probably the easiest mod to do, since you don't have to disassemble the gun.


If you installed the handle and bolt, read this step, otherwise, skip to the next one.

Step 5: Feed Cover Removal

In order to access the innards of the gun, the feed cover must be removed. to do so, take out the two hinge screws.


The longest part of disassembling the gun is taking out the screws, and there are a ton of them!

Luckily, not all of them need to be removed!

Step 7: M2 P1, Master Air Restrictor Removal

In this mod, we complete the belt mod by removing another air restrictor.

Use extreme caution when lifting the piston out of the action, there are many thin plastic parts that could snap of bent wrong.

When I first performed this mod, the firing distance actually dropped, but i quickly figured out why: The master air restrictor acted as a chamber seal during the firing sequence. Without it, it is necessary (on some guns) to spread a bit of Vaseline or other gel on the tip of the plunger chamber (marked in picture). This will greatly improve the function of the gun by keeping the seal moist, and airtight.

Step 8: That's It, for Now.

For now, I'm done modding my Vulcan, but there are plenty more mods I'm planning.

I will update this Instructable with future mods that I do!

Future mod list:

  • Round Counter
  • Extended belt -- maybe not, this would put too much stress on the belt feeder (if the belt was hanging)
  • Rechargeable battery - possibly an old laptop batt?
  • Better ammo box
  • Better belt feed - see next item
  • Metal components (and CAD Drawings)
  • Stefans (requires belt post removal...)
  • Rewiring
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<p>is there an air restrictor in the firing mechanism? because mine still doesnt fire that far...</p>
<p>mine gos only like 20 feet !</p>
Yep he mentions it in this instructable
<p>I see...</p>
Cool its so much fun to have a Nerf war with
awesome thx
Im going to buy two slightly used nerf vulcans from a friend, can you reverse the polarity of on of the belt motors and do some cosmetic changes to make one of the guns belt feed from the opposite direction and still work. <br>Lego
That would probably reverse the entire firing mechanism, so it would feed backwards but it wouldn't fire.
sadly no, the feed mechanism is a One Way ratchet that works by pulling an angled lever past teeth on the belt holder, regardless of which way the motor turns, that part will still pull the belt in the same direction.
Lol MasterDraco, your avatar is from a movie I watched :D I liked that movie!
Sadly that won't work... The firing mechanism works by reciprocating motion, and the belt advance will only work in the correct direction. I ruined my first Vulcan when the belt got pulled backwards, and broke the ratchet mechanism...
I have a used vulcan, and it isnt shooting as far as it is supposed to. Will changing the batteries help? Thanks
Wow it's been a while since i've logged on, sorry, but yes, replacing batteries will help a lot on firing speed. <br> <br>Distance won't change, since regardless of speed it's still pulling the bolt back the same ammount, but at some point the motor won't be able to get the bolt all the way back. Try putting in new batteries and it should work better!
A much easier and cleaner way of doing this is to use a small pair of wire cutters and simply snip the pieces of plastic holding the pegs in place. Two quick snips on each peg and you are done. It took me less than 5 minutes to remove all of the ones from my belt.
can u do it with stampede?
Cool Mod! I did not take the AR out of mine I actually Modded it to run on a <br>9.6 Volt RC Battery And it worked really well! So I got a new Vulcan and I thinl i am going to Take out all the AR's then mod it to run on a RC Battery? Sounds Legit right?
So, I have a Vulcan, and it's NOT that easy to take off the feed cover. I took out the two hinges screws and it wouldn't come off. Is there something special needed? Because something is holding both sides in.
Yes there is a round orange bit which the screw is inside (both sides).<br><br>I attached a picture below, if you haven't got it yet (I know its been a week since you posted).<br><br>I used a Phillips screw driver and just lifted it upwards.
It isnt shoot as far And fast as it i supposed to.
how can i get the piston disassembled? dad said that solvent ruins plastic and hot water <em>might</em> work
edit: i dont wanna do it anymore and ruined auto-blasting. i wanna fix it!!!
That happened to me to. Put the air restrictor back in.
i didn't even managed to get it out! i tried putting the piston back in but it just makes a noise like &quot;vrrrrrrrrrboomvrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrboom&quot; but does not blast! it's a machine gun and not a sniper rifle! i wanna mow down enemies!
??? I don't understand
it makes the original noise, but the follower wheel does not pull the belt, nor does it fire...
Hmm, maybe you screwed it too tight? <br>Maybe you wired it wrong so that the wire is stopping the wheel from moving?
Oh. my. god. That makes all sense! Thanks a lot. I'm just 13 and wasn't able to think through it.
Hey what happened with yours? I'm having the same problem
a wire was stuck and the electric current wasn't flowing
dude im only TEN and i could think it through.
found a motor that would be almost perfect for an upgrade :) &nbsp;<a href="http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-345/12-24_VDC_MOTOR/-/1.html">http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-345/12-24_VDC_MOTOR/-/1.html</a>
my piston wont open. i have taken the screws out and tryed levering it out but it wont budge. <br>
awesome project&nbsp; i just though id imput some wisdom.<br /> <br /> <strong>motor <br /> </strong><br /> The stock motor is 32mm long, 27.6mm in diameter, and has a shaft diameter of 2.4mm. <br /> To replace the motor with a better one u need&nbsp; the size of it.<br /> 380 size is generally 28mm dia. 35-40mm length.<br /> while 370 is 24mm dia. 35-40mm length.<br /> <br /> <strong>gears</strong><br /> <br /> to strengthen the gearing and things use delrin. delrin is a composite plastic that is stronger than average placic without being to heavy.<br /> <br /> <strong>batteries<br /> </strong>ni-mh are probably the best choice of battery for this you can get them for rc cars. Li-po is the other option it is lighter and more powerful, but it is much more expensive and can explode if u dont use it right.<br /> <br /> All the things listed are designed for application with rc vehicles.
Thanks!<br /> <br /> do not have&nbsp;access&nbsp;to any delrin, but i do have a good amount of steel, and am quire&nbsp;proficient&nbsp;on a mill i have made at least a dozen gears for various projects without using a tooth-cutter... its tricky, but possible.<br /> <br /> i also have some old laptop&nbsp;batteries... (lipo) that should work quite nicely.<br /> <br /> -Z<br />
hey what do you think is the hardest nerf gun to mod is <br>
my dad and i have been unable to make nice gears using a cnc mill. could you tell me how you do it?
All I can tell you is it's a pain in the A$$, and will likely take a lot of time... The best way (other than using a gearcutter) is to mount your round-stock on an indexer (like a lathe jaw, but lets you turn the part in very specific amounts) and, using a router bit (with the pitch you want for the teeth), carve out each individual tooth...<br><br>It's a long and laborious process, longer if you need alot of teeth, and damn near impossible without an indexer... I suppose you could do it with just a vice, but getting it lined up perfectly each time would be a pain...
old laptop batteries are lithium-ion, not lipo :)
Correction: SOME old laptop batteries ale Li-Ion, SOME are Li-Polymer... the ones that was planning on using were Li-Poly... However, I've kinda abandoned the project for now, as I'm in college and have limited time...
I removed my air restricter by drilling it out due to it being glued but however my gun dosent seem to fire after I put it all together, its very odd and fires only some of the time. Is there any way to fix up this problem, i dont know if the drilling did anything but I got as close as the restricter's size that i had so i dont think it would be that. But please help me out, im modding the gun to look awesome for this convention im going to :]
if it is a vulcan it probably is just the little orange button above the belt motor (can only see it when the orange panel above the belt motor is up) use some tape attached to a stick like thing to keep the button pressed down
The &quot;little plastic thing&quot; at the top makes it LEGAL. It tells police this isn't real.<br />
Partly, the legal requirement is that there is an orange tip, however, it is not required to be an extra protrusion.. My thinking is that NERF Intentionally made this a separate part so that people painting their guns could attach it after the paint dried.
i dont think nerf intended for their guns to be painted... did they?
I do agree w/ Boppo I took my longshot firefly maverick and secret shot(it sucks) and used permenant black sharpie in the creases and made it look sweet from a distance
They did! thats why they gave their guns such awful paintjobs- for us to correct!
well i cant disagree with that, the color schemes on nerf guns just dont look right.
What's really interesting is that Australian ones don't have that part.<br>Interesting, because we have the exact same regulations requiring an orange tip on 'toy' weapons.

About This Instructable




Bio: Industrial / Manufacturing / Systems / Quality engineer with a passion for gadget making and emerging technologies
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