Introduction: Nerf Vulcan Modification Project

About: Industrial / Manufacturing / Systems / Quality engineer with a passion for gadget making and emerging technologies

In this Instructable, I will be documenting the modifications I make to my new NERF Vulcan EBF - 25 fully automatic Nerf gun.

Many of these modifications are NOT REVERSIBLE , and, if done wrong, will result in irreparable damage to the gun.

Also, i know it's kind of obvious, but performing ANY of these modifications will immediately void the warranty, so don't complain that the store refused to take beck your broken gun! - Note, Some people have commented that Wallmart took back their broken guns after failed mods. THIS IS NOT NORMAL! Toy companies do not follow the maker's creed of "If you can't open it, you don't own it!"

I will also point out key parts that I think should be made of metal, along with CAD drawings of said parts.

All the images in this instructable are available in high quality (so you can actually see what I'm talking about). Just click the boxed "i" in the top left of the image, and click "Original File"!

And, as always, wear safety glasses when playing with modified NERF guns, the darts won't have much of a problem giving you a black eye!

DO NOT MOD A NERF GUN WITH BATTERIES IN IT! 9 volts isn't a lot, until you add current!

The steps are numbered in the following manner:

M # P #, Name
meaning: Mod # Part #, Name (if first part)

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Step 1: Pre Mod Stats

Here are the stats on the gun, Pre-Mod:

Flight Distance:
Averages:
Initial 50.27777778'
Bounce 5.861111111'
Total 56.13888889'

Looking at these numbers, the gun did really well pre-mod, better than any other Nerf gun I've used.


Step 2: M1 P1, Belt Air Restrictor Removal

The belt on the Nerf Vulcan has some annoying air restrictors in it that need to be removed, but, if you cut too much plastic, the gun won't work.

This mod doesn't do much on it's own, but combined with the removal of other air restrictors, it's incredible.

Step 3: M1 P2

I used a drill bit and a knife to hollow out the tube, but anything that gets the job done should work.

This is a long and tedious mod, since it has to be repeated many times.

However, it's probably the easiest mod to do, since you don't have to disassemble the gun.

Step 4: GUN DISASEMBLY Part One

If you installed the handle and bolt, read this step, otherwise, skip to the next one.

Step 5: Feed Cover Removal

In order to access the innards of the gun, the feed cover must be removed. to do so, take out the two hinge screws.

Step 6: GUN DISASEMBLY Part Two

The longest part of disassembling the gun is taking out the screws, and there are a ton of them!

Luckily, not all of them need to be removed!

Step 7: M2 P1, Master Air Restrictor Removal

In this mod, we complete the belt mod by removing another air restrictor.

Use extreme caution when lifting the piston out of the action, there are many thin plastic parts that could snap of bent wrong.

When I first performed this mod, the firing distance actually dropped, but i quickly figured out why: The master air restrictor acted as a chamber seal during the firing sequence. Without it, it is necessary (on some guns) to spread a bit of Vaseline or other gel on the tip of the plunger chamber (marked in picture). This will greatly improve the function of the gun by keeping the seal moist, and airtight.

Step 8: That's It, for Now.

For now, I'm done modding my Vulcan, but there are plenty more mods I'm planning.

I will update this Instructable with future mods that I do!

Future mod list:

  • Round Counter
  • Extended belt -- maybe not, this would put too much stress on the belt feeder (if the belt was hanging)
  • Rechargeable battery - possibly an old laptop batt?
  • Better ammo box
  • Better belt feed - see next item
  • Metal components (and CAD Drawings)
  • Stefans (requires belt post removal...)
  • Rewiring
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