Potato chips and projects are very similar. You are never satisfied with just one. And even if you eat so many chips or do so many projects that you feel a bit weak in the knees and unsettled in the stomach, it doesn't take too long to forget about the bad and continue with the good! And the beauty and frustration of projects is that once you finish, you just can't stop. You are happy you finished, but you immediately start thinking about how you can improve upon it and make the project even better!

That is how I came up with Night Bike 2.0. The first version was great, but I thought I could make it even better. And in the two years since I first published Night Bike (seen here), I've revamped it into the far more advanced and sophisticated version 2.0.

The hurdles I ran into while using my Night Bike were that the paint dimmed after awhile, and I preferred the crisp glow that you get just after charging the paint. I also struggled with my own space cadet nature and sometimes would forget to take it out of my work closet to charge before I left and then was sorry out of luck.

I needed some more glowing security on a budget because I'm definitely not made of money!

So after two years of tinkering with electrical circuits by dusting off some high school physics and a lot of help from the google, I've come up with Night Bike 2.0.

This bike is fantastic, I can store it away in my closet at work and if I forget about it there is no need to worry! I can charge it as I ride. I added violet LED lights which are placed to evenly charge the paint on the tires as you peddle (the blue dulled fastest) and to charge the frame as well! There are many settings to choose from on the bike so it can just be extra "flashy" if you want it to be.

Hopefully with this instructable you'll find this addition fairly easy, I've tried to endure all the headaches for you :) and as always I will comment if there are questions!

Step 1: Materials/Tools

> Connectors [Bought Here]
> Battery Pack [Bought Here]
> LED's [Bought Here]
> Alternative Switch [Bought Here]
> Zip Ties
> 1/4" Heat Shrink Tubing

> Drill with bits
> Scissors
> Soldering Iron
> Matches (To heat the heat shrink tubing), heat gun will also work.

I have a very primative setup compaired to this, but I repurposed a battery from an old laptop and used pvc glue to seal all cracks and holes.
<p>for attaching leds, 3M make a 2 sided tape for car moldings and emblems that you can find in most any auto parts store. it's thin foam so has some give to it for mild curves and textures, and since it's made for the outside of cars there's no amount of bike abuse that it can't handle.</p>
<p>Thanks for the suggestion! I might try it if some of my LED's keep being persnickety </p>
<p>I love the effect and need a similar system for my vehicle but unfortunately the drill points will could weaken ANY frame material to the point of catastrophic failure . I suggest for no movement points you can pass the power thru adhesive copper strips used for PCB repair , paint or decals will cover. For the forks you can pass the power thru any small gauge wires wrapped around the break cables . my 2 cents keep working on it , it looks great .</p>
<p>Thanks for the suggestion, if folks don't want to drill they can take a look at your tips. Though I am really confident my bike isn't near catastrophic failure even with a few small drill holes. It's sturdy as an ox. </p>
I'm an engineer you always assume the lowest poorest construction ... no one wants to see someone hurt ..
To help with tape adhesion, clean the area with rubbing alcohol then warm it up with a blow dryer, real warm.
<p>That's a good tip, I was just worried about the paint surrounding the LED, so didn't want to go too gung-ho with rubbing alcohol to clean it up. </p>
Back when I was in the custom car biz we used acetone and toluene to prep for attaching groups effect kits. I think rubbing alcohol would be safe. This was to remove any dirt or wax. Since yours is fresh, non baked, paint a real good washing would certainly be a must. <br><br>As far as the holes weakening anything..... Someone needs to take their paranoia hat off and use some common sense. A 1/4&quot; hole isn't going to weaken anything, even one of those bamboo frame rigs could stand that, and do during manufacturing.
Another option for your tape/zip tie dilemma could be a hot glue gun. It dries clear and can be used to reinforce solders/wires/LEDs. Great ible!
<p>I didn't even think about a hot glue gun! I might try a dab of it. </p>
Psychedelic bike If you get into an accident then the other person that claim that he/she could not see you for sure can apply for &quot;BLIND PENSIONS&quot;for sure.A must for night riders (No pun intended)
<p>hahahahah thanks for the comment!</p>
<p>Thanks for the instructable. One tape that is close to electrical tape that is clear is &quot;3M Plastic Tape&quot; It's a very good quality tape and comes in lots of colors + clear. There are also some battery holders which are 100% enclosed and could easily make them water tight (at mouser.com) They're only about a buck each. </p>
<p>Hey Thanks for the suggestions! I'll look into them</p>
<p>So which paint and source do you now reccomend?</p>
Combining elements of our projects would create some great effects. https://www.instructables.com/id/Intro-60
It sure would. I love the zipper bag you have for the electronics under the seat!
Great project.
I like your design! Though I don't see the wheels glowing, like you mentioned in the intro. Is the camera just not picking that up very well? <br> <br>I was also put off by the supplier you linked for LED strips - several of the claims they make regarding why their strips are superior to others are obviously false (ALL flex LED strips use pure copper for conductors, thicker substrates or different solder mask colors do NOT make a flexible PCB more reliable, etc.). <br> <br>I was thinking you could also charge some other parts of the frame (or wheel rims) with more intense individual violet LEDs. The 5mm and 10mm 'bullet' style package offers a narrow, focused beam so you can direct the light to more distant points on the frame, or put more light onto a narrow rim. You'd just have to work out an efficient wiring arrangement for them so they could run off the same battery.
The camera is not picking up the wheels very well. Also you have to remember that the bike is stationary, so the light couldn't shine on the rotating wheels for a more even glow. That said, the wheels glow less than the rest of the bike. The intense individual lights are a good idea for the wheels, but a more diffuse glow lights up the paint better. <br> <br>Thanks for the comment about the light supplier, I'm sure there are better LED supplying companies if you search for them and aren't on a tight budget. If you find one, feel free to link it here.
Hello, I followed your Night Bike instructable to create my glow in the dark bike. The idea to add the lights to change it is just perfect! Are you concerned (I've not read the entire project yet) with drilling more holes into the frame? <br> <br>I built mine for winter commuting where I usually ride to and from work in the dark. Keeping it bright has been an issue so this is my next step I believe!
Hey! That's super cool that you followed the first one. I love hearing that. The holes I drilled were really small, and not in any compromising joints. Since there weren't many I wasn't concerned at all. It's like drilling small holes for a water bottle holder or something of the sort. This will really help keep it bright! Good luck!
How much $$$ all in?
I don't remember the exact amount. I would say to install the backlight LED system it cost no more than $50.
Cool bike! <br>As for UV leds, there are 385nm types, <br>not that much more expensive. <br>Mouser - 593-VAOL5GUV8T4 <br>They appear dim wht to the eye, but <br>will tickle your phos or fluorescent paint just fine. <br>

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