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UPDATE
More Coats added and Pictures Uploaded
General Safety Tips Step added

Okay, so back to business.
If you have ever used a Nintendo 64 you know the original Nintendo logo. I have wanted to build this table for quite some time but have always had some things come up.

My intent for this table is to have a glass top and to be used for holding games. The shelves are wide enough to hold Nintendo 64 games and nick-nacs  but not wide enough to hold PS3 or X360 game cases.
The doors are completely removable and held the in place by magnets. The magnets I used are strong enough to hold the door firmly in place. I was able to pick up and move the table from my garage to my room without any of the doors falling off.

If you like this project please vote for it. Thank you.

Step 1: General Safety Tips


Here are just some general safety tips to keep in mind during the project

When working with a large amount of saw dust you should either where a mask or attach a vacuum to your currently tools
Work in a well ventilated area when working with fumes or sprays (spray paint)
Where hear protection when working with heavy machinery for extended periods.
Do not where gloves when working with spinning power tools because cloth can be easily caught
Always know where the blade and your hands are.
Obvious but often ignored. Don't drink and use power tools.

Step 2: Materials and Tools

While making this project I didn't have all the tools that I wanted either because of lack of money or garage space. If you have some suggestions on the correct technique or a better tool
please write a comment and I will give you credit add it to the final slide. This was my first build and I plan to do it again and make improvements. Thank You in Advance.


Materials
1/2 in MDF board 2ft by 4ft (3x)
1.4 in MDF board 2ft by 4ft (1x)
48 5mm magnets (get a few extras. I bought mine at a flea market for 30 for a dollar. )
Spray Paint
       Primer, Yellow, Cheery Red, Emerald Green, True Blue (I used glossy)
Optional
   Bondo
   Squeegee


Tools
Table Saw
Orbital Sander
Drill
Sand Paper
Wood Glue
Masking Tape (Full Roll, Wider Better)
Clamps(The More The Better) Bar, Parallel, Quick Release
     I used all three because that is what I had on hand)

Time and Patience

Step 3: Who Made the Cut

General Dimensions
Height 20''
Width 20''

I understand what I did, and it make since to me but I have a poor time explaining myself to others. So if you have any questions post a comment and I will try to better explain myself.

This project is relatively easy and could probably be completed in a weekend.
Almost everything I did was on the table saw.

Using your 1/2 MDF boards cut
(16x) 5.25'' wide 20'' long strips (Vertical Legs)
(8x) 5.75 wide 22+''long strips (for now it will be too long you will cut length in a moment) (Diagonal Pieces)
Take these pieces and cut 53 degree angle on one side.
Once you are further into the project you will shorten the length and add 53 degree angle cut to the end.

Using your 1/4 MDF board cut
(4x) 4.75 wide 22+'' long strips (for now it will be too long you will cut length in a moment) (Tops for Diagonal Pieces)
(Depends on how many shelves you want) 4.75'' by 4.75'' squares (shelves and supports for Diagonal pieces)



Each leg is made of 4 long strips and 5 squares.
Each Diagonal Pieces has two sides and a top. You can add a bottom I didn't because it so low to the ground and I added a secret compartment in mine.


Step 4: Corner Posts

Prep Work
Clean off an area that can be left undisturbed for a couple of hours.
Lay down newspaper because this next step could get messy.


Each leg is made of 4 long strips and 5 squares.

In order to make the leg I glued three of 5.75''by 20'' strips together and put a shelve piece every 4''.
See Diagram for better description.

Add glue to all touching edges.
Use claps to hold the box together.
Prefer to use at least 3 one at each end and one in the middle.
DO NOT over tighten clamps or you could have bowing.
CHECK that all edges are flush or nearly flush with each side.
DO NOT glue down a fourth long piece if you want it to be removeable

Step 5: Removable Doors

I wanted these doors to be removable while also being strong enough to be held in place.
I did not want to use a hinge in this kind of wood because I felt it would be to flimsy.
I have a surplus of magnets small earth magnet so I tried these and they worked perfectly.
In each door there are 6 sets of magnet pairs.
3 sets securing the door to the right and 3 sets securing the door to the front.

The magnet sets are placed ever 5'' in the vertical post.
I added the magnets by first drilling a hole slightly deeper than the height of the magnet and wider than diameter of the magnet.
I filled the hole with glue, placed the magnet, pushed it down so it was flush with the board and wiped away the excess glue. Repeat
After you have completed the process with the door repeat the process with the box. The location of the magnets should line up when you place the door on the box.

MAKE SURE that you put the magnet pairs opposite one another. If the magnet end sticking out the door is North, the magnet end sticking out of the box should be South. Otherwise it will never close.

Step 6: Sharp Edge

Diagonal Piece Construction
Once the sides and top pieces are glued together you will notice an edge needs to be chamfered. 
I tried to cut this on the table saw but this is 37 degree angle and the table saw has a range of 90 to 45 degrees.
Again this is new to me correct me if there is a better method.
I used a orbital sander and took this edge off ever diagonal piece. The board is only 1/4'' thick and it sands away very quickly.

Step 7: Glue and Construction

Now your ready to start putting it all together.
The approach that I found the easiest was to build two N's. Once each were dry I stood them up straight and added an diagonal piece between them.

Take this step slow and allow the pieces to dry thoroughly. You will only cause yourself trouble if you rush this step. You will have more gaps, sanding, and unlevel top if not dried correctly.

Step 8: Repairs (Maybe)


Unless you're an excellence cut you will have a few gaps in between your joints.
These joints will be highly unfashionable if unintended so we are going to take care of them now.
This was my first wood project so I was trying some different thing when filling in the gaps.
I tried mixing saw dust and wood glue spreading it into the cracks. This worked at first but after a while it got to be a little messy and hard to handle.
Wood filler was OK but expensive.
Eventually my dad suggested bondo from Auto zone.
It is used for filling car damage and it goes on smooth and can be primed and painted.
For a couple of bucks it worked well.
It was going to be sanded down and painted so I wouldn't see it so I didn't mind using it.


Step 9: Tape and Paint...Repeat

Ok this step is going to be time a little time consuming as well.
Just take your time and walk away and allow the each coat to fully dry.


Clean off the table first. If you have one I used an air compressor and blew all the dust off the table.
First Prime the entire project with 3-4 coats of primer.
Tape off the area where you will be spraying the yellow.
You do not need to cover the whole project unless your a really bad aim or overly cautious.
I sprayed lightest to darkest so if I sprayed in places where I shouldn't it would soon be covered up.

Next spray on the yellow with enough layers where you are comfortable with the color. Numbers of layers depend on thickness of layers.
After an hour or two once the paint is safe to touch completely cover the yellow with masking tape and continue onto the next color, red.
Continue this process until all colors are added.


Directions for using spray paint
Shake can 1-2 minutes & during use.
Test spray in an inconspicuous area for compatibility.
Hold can 6''-8'' from surface, spray in sweeping motion motion side to side with slightly overlap.
Apply multiple thin coats, wait 1 minute between each coat.
Dry in 10 minutes or less. Apply additional coats within 1 hour or after 24.
Clean up: To prevent clotting hold can upside down outside and spray until clear. (2-3 secs)

Step 10: Finished and Enjoy

The colors on the spray paint are not completely filled in on this picture. I plan to go back and and do a few more coats but I wanted to enter this into one of the contests. I am a long time follower of this instructables and have just started to make some of my very own. The voting rules have recently changed and I feel into order to have a place in the completion I needed to upload mine now. I will add a few more coats and update my pictures once I'm finished.

I have no doubt once I add another coat or two this will be an excellent addition to my room or yours.

Remember if you like this project please vote for it. Thank you.

Suggestions and Extras
Add a secret compartment underneath the diagonal pieces
Add a tier system inside the shelve so that you can see multiple layers of games at once
Paint or add stickers to the inside


Can this table be modified into others letter
May I suggest building a nintendo 64 into the actual table? Then you could have a Nintable 64 ;)
Hmm. Maybe.
Wow, it brings back old memories, I might have to make this in the near future, congratulations on being a finalist in the Krylon Contest(I dont know the winners as I posted this message)!
Thank You and Good Luck if you decide to make the project yourself. I'm really enjoying my table. The table is currently located in my living-room and I have found so many uses for the drawers besides games (remote, small pads of paper, pencils).
I have also made a papercraft version so that might help me! And it must be a great converasation piece when people come over
woo so a wonderful job!<br>I still have my old nintendo too.<br>I love it.
Thanks. I still have mine I just need to find the time to break out some of the classics.
I'm glad you posted some updated photo's. paint job looks much petter. <br>mdf soaks up paint like a sponge. primer is a must before painting. what I like to do is to prime the 4x8 sheet before I start cutting. once peices are cut, if I think it'll be hard to paint later, I'll paint the pieces before assembly. <br> <br>also, mdf has formaldehyde and kicks out a ton of dust so a good quality mask is a must. <br> <br>Nice Job
Thanks, I really like the paint job now. I had to wait a couple of days to finish the paint job because it was just too hot to spray paint. <br><br>P.S. I worn a mask and had a had a wet dry vac running every time I cut. <br>This was a learning experience Thanks.
Aw man, after all that work you decided to use spray paint? I though for sure you would use just a regular brush and a foam brush for the edges. Would have saved you a lot of work and a lot of runs. Awesome idea and great execution though!
For anyone interested in building this project. It really wasn't that hard to do. This was my first build and a learning experience. I plan to make it again with some improvements. It could probably be completed in a weekend. I wanted to use paint brush but it wanted to enter it in the spray paint contest. I could of used a brush and lied but I wanted to do it honestly. The spray paint does give it a nice shine though.
nice table man! spray paint would have worked just fine, but you need to do some preparations before you do. i have some experience working with MDF since building some speakers. so here is my advice: you have to sand everything with a fine sanpaper, otherwise your paint will not be even. then you need to buy a special MDF primer (the one you chose will get soaked into the material) wich is very sticky and not very nice to work with, but if you coat your MDF with it, dry it, and then sand it very well, your spraypaint will be perfect. since my speaker project, i know that the quality of the paintjob is all about priming and sanding. i hope i could help. (i'm sorry for grammar mistakes.. but beeing from germany excuses them, i guess ;) )
Thank you much and your grammar is just fine by the way. I will look into the proper primer to use. I suspected that was the cause. Since posting I have sanded the edges down and sprayed on a few more coats and I will be posting some new pictures today.
That looks complicated, but I love the idea!
You have my vote! This would go great in my game room!
Way to go Kent, keep up the great projects...You are so smart.
Great Job ! Nice to see you use your time wisely during the summer break. Can't wait to see future products that you make. Good Luck ! You have my Vote.
Great Job ! It's cool how you used your time wisely during the summer break. Good Luck! Can't wait to see other products in the future. You have my Vote.!
You are my hero
How much $$ did you spent in this awesome project?
I have a lot of scrap pieces of wood leftover that I plan to use on future projects. I had planned on keeping a running total but I had to buy some tools to get me started. A Reasonable cost would be $28 wood and $11 for paint. But you can reduce the cost by buying a larger sheet of wood. I did not have a truck to buy the large sheets so I bought 3 of the smaller pieces. <br>But in the end you will have leftover pieces and paint and a really solid table. <br>Stay tuned I am going to turn the leftover pieces into a companion cube box from portal.
Awesome!
Very nice!
wow
it looks cool, but i think that you should have put a lip on the tops and get some glass fitted to it. and maybe stain the glass. hmmm sounds like something i would do if i made this lol still though it looks awesome.<br>
I do plan on having fitted piece of glass cut. I was in a little rush to put this instructable online so for the picture I took a piece of glass from a table I already had in my living room. But I completely agree that the glass should be fitted. Since I haven't ordered it yet I might go with stained glass (that does sound cool) or sandwich a Mario poster between two pieces of glass.
I am into this!

About This Instructable

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Bio: Mechanical Engineer at Wright State University. Gamer Enthusiast and Amateur builder.
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