Strings of bright lights are popular for everything from huge animated Christmas displays to teenage bedroom decor. They're not perfect, though. They eat power. Bulbs can burn out (sometimes taking down the whole strand, depending on the design.) They need to be close to an outlet. Using electricity in the rain or snow isn't the safest thing in the world, either.

I designed this project to be an alternative. These "lights" don't use any source of power, and as long as they get some bright light during they day you'll get at least an hour of glow from them after dark. You can make the "bulbs" any shape and size, and design the length of the strand for the application. They require some effort up front, but can be blissfully ignored once installed.

The science involved here is the use of phosphorescent materials. Phosphors absorb light and slowly release it, creating the glowing effect. Technically, your bulbs will glow all of the time, but during the day it isn't very visible (they just look like pastel bits of plastic) and at night the glow starts out bright, but fades over time. More colors are becoming available all the time - I've used six different colors for my bulbs, instead of just the traditional green glow in the dark. I have found at least 11 different colors online, so you really do have a great number of options.

I did a bit of testing, and found that sunlight was the best for creating bright lights, but florescent and incandescent lights did a surprisingly good job of recharging the glow, too.

Step 1: Supplies and Equipment

Some of the steps are family friendly, but there are a few that require safe handling and are definitely not suitable for kids. Read all of your product information before you get started and take every possible precaution to keep yourself safe.


-white cardstock
-resin - this is Envirotext Light, an epoxy type resin is best for this project (I only used a tiny bit, you can buy a smaller package)
-phosphorescent/glow powders - available all over the internet, this site has a wide range
-string - nylon is my first choice for outdoor use, pretty much anything will hold up indoors


-paper punch
-drill, dremel, or other method of making holes in plastic - I used a 1/16th inch drill bit
-waxed paper or other surface protector
-dust mask - keep the powder out of your lungs
-safely glasses - keep flying bits of plastic out of your eyes
-gloves - disposable plastic for resin, leather for drilling your pieces
-mixing cups and stirring devices for your type of resin - I used waxed cups with volume markings and popsicle sticks, that won't work for all resins, check the instructions in your package

If you glued/laminated aluminum foil (shiny side up) to the cardstock prior to punching out circles, how do you think it would change brightness or color saturation?
I don't think foil would boost the brightness because these don't reflect light, they're just releasing light that was absorbed earlier. I could be totally wrong, though, so the next time I'm playing around with glow powders and resin I'll give it a try and see if it reacts in a different way than I'm expecting!
It does seem like it should help the glow &quot;charge&quot; more efficiently, especially on dull winter days &amp; presumably the glow is cast in all direction so reflecting some going in the wrong direction seem like a good idea.<br><br>...but that's all just conjecture, based on almost nothing :)
I wasn't even thinking about the charging aspect but you could be right.<br> <br> Following your train of thought, if we think about this project along the lines of a taillight in a vehicle, you're right!&nbsp;The light released from the powder does not go in just one direction. The light goes <strong>away from </strong>the reflector (in this case, cardstock) AND also <strong>towards </strong>the reflector (cardstock) and is reflected back. (This is why white cardstock works better than other colors. It's a better reflector.)<br> <br> To further add to the overall conjecture :o) . . . I suspect that having a shiny, more efficient reflector (aluminum foil on cardstock or perhaps a&nbsp;stiff bit&nbsp;of Mylar film) will make the glow appear brighter.<br> <br> How much? Hard to say but since the efficiency of the glow powder as a light source is relatively low to begin with, <em>any</em> inexpensive&nbsp;improvement is probably worthwhile.<br> <br> I further&nbsp;believe that in sunlight&nbsp;the resin color would&nbsp;have a deeper shade and appear more jewel-like.&nbsp;That's because&nbsp;light must pass <em>through</em> the colored resin&nbsp;before being reflected [more efficiently] and&nbsp;<em>back</em> through the resin.<br> <br> Chester's idea of plastic report covers is interesting because the glow&nbsp;would be seen better from <strong>both</strong> sides of the disk.&nbsp;It would probably appear dimmer because there would be no reflecting of the light off the substrate, BUT . . . if you used a colored plastic, new possibilities open up. Green glow powder on a red plastic would appear green from one side and (some shade of) yellow from the other (assuming that it was only coated on one side).<br> <br> It would also probably look prettier in the sunlight because it would be translucent if not transparent.
Ok, how about using those small round, square mirrors, or old CD disks in place of the card stock? Mirror would be interesting to see...
I think I'm going to have to set up an experiment with the same resin/powder mix on a variety of substrates. As soon as I have time to get it done I'll post some results!
I expect that if you could punch old CDs/DVDs, they'd make an excellent surface. (If resin adheres to them, of course.) And you'd be recyling and you wouldn't have to seal the back (and it would shine in the sun).
Does the process you use take in UV light and convert to visible light?<br><br>
I bet the light-weight plastic used for report covers (transparency sheets) would work well. That would also transmit the light to both sides without having to coat both sides. You might even be able to peel away the plastic, leaving just the resin.
Resin peels off of some plastics very easily and not at all from others. It would be a good idea to double check that your type of plastic doesn't inhibit UV if you're trying to maximize your double sided glow!
Quick quandary: Does the powder HAVE to mix in with and Epoxy? If I could mix it into a airbrush (with a clear coat paint) kind of setup that would be ideal. I'm think of using ping pong balls versus paper circles.. Thoughts?
The powder I have would clog an airbrush almost instantly, you would need to do a lot of crushing and sifting to get it to work. It's my understanding that these powders mix into an oil base better than a water base, but if you're willing to persevere through the clunky powder issue it should work really well for you!<br><br>I also might test spraying on a coat of a sticky clear paint, dusting the powder over that, and then spraying on another clear coat when the first layer dries. That would circumvent the airbrush and powder problem and still give you a 3D object finish!
hmmm that's a good idea..<br>1) Spray &quot;PingPongBall&quot; with adhesive,<br>2) Roll ball in &quot;Dust&quot;,<br>3) Clear coat,<br>4) repeat 1 thou 3..
If you try it let me know how it turns out!
Very Nice! Do you mind if I steal, fold, staple and mutilate your idea, and make my grand kids some neat-o stuff? All kidding aside, a very nice job!
Thanks! As long as whatever you make can be set parallel to the earth for resin covering you should be able to use this method lots of ways. Go crazy!
http://www.glonation.com/index.html <br>this paint was used by someone making a &quot;night bike&quot;{https://www.instructables.com/id/Night-Bike/} it would be great for this too!
You can't mix the paint into resin, and I used resin to be more weather resilient. You could paint the paper then put resin over it. Glo Nation sells the same colors of paint and powder, though!
I'd probably use a <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-hollow-punch-set-3838.html" rel="nofollow">hollow punch</a>. You can get them individually or in a set&nbsp;at scrapbooking or hardware stores.
If you did the punching within a few days of making the part it would work, but resin gets more shatter prone the longer it hardens!
Good to know! :o)
You could also embed a wire loop or something when the resin is still liquid!
The resin likes to self level and will flow along anything, so if the wire is parallel to or lower than the card stock it's likely that the resin will just run down the wire and drip off. If you can rig the wire so that it's slightly higher than the card stock piece it should work like a charm!
Maybe if you used the paint that https://www.instructables.com/member/Adobi/ used on his bike the glow would last longer? Still- I like the idea of electricity-free outdoor decorations- nicely done!
It's really just a matter of the specific materials you use. I could have chosen powders that glow as long as Adobi's, but I picked colors I liked better that happened to glow for a shorter time. The real difference is that Adobi bought a paint, whereas I bought powders and made them into my own epoxy paint. Either way, stuff that glows is a lot of fun!
Your projects are always so cool- looking forward to your weekly projects for 2012!
Thank you so much!
I've been trying to make a cool paint color by combining a phosphorescent base coat with a colored clear coat over it. The problem I found was that the clear coat (which is presumably acrylic) blocks UV so the under-coat can't phosphoresce.<br><br>Do you know if the resin blocks UV? Similar to phosphorescent dyes, glow-in-the-dark products respond strongly to UV although they will also &quot;charge&quot; with visible light. In addition, since UV is not very visible, a weak black light can be used to keep glow-in-the-dark products charged &mdash;&nbsp;although that would mean the &quot;lights&quot; are no longer no-power!
Thanks for bringing this up - I forgot to address it when I wrote the instructable.<br><br>Generally speaking, you need to specifically seek out a resin with UV inhibitors. That's why a lot of fiberglass boats are so prone to fading and breaking down in the sun. Envirotex Lite (as well as most tabletop style resins) don't have a UV inhibitor, so there's nothing getting in the way of the glow. <br><br>Clear finishes that are only for indoor use often don't have UV inhibitors, either. There are lots of polyurethanes that would make a good finish. On the other hand, a lot of acrylics - especially those intended for fine art - are loaded with UV protection. I've had really good luck with googling the product name followed by &quot;uv&quot; to check up on specific materials.<br><br>Adding the black light would be using power, but it's amazing what a small amount of black light it takes to make these powders blinding, and it would be a good way to keep things bright while reducing power use as compared to normal lights!
These look great!
Thank you! They glow much better than I was expecting!
Neat! I may use the for an outdoor wind sculpture. With good sunlight, how many hours after sunset do these glow?<br><br>
The yellow/green/blue part of the spectrum has the longest lasting glow, I would expect at least two hours and <a href="http://glowinc.com/detail.aspx?ID=42" rel="nofollow">according to the manufacture this green lasts 24+.</a> The red/orange/purple colors fade out faster. A wind sculpture could be a really beautiful use for this!

About This Instructable




Bio: Always making something....
More by technoplastique:Business Card Case With Covert Micro SD Compartment Modular Glowing Handwoven Textile Sierpiński Tetrahedron Fractal Kite 
Add instructable to: