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Nomadic Life 2: Mediacase

Nomadic Life 2: Mediacase
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Disclaimer: I am not a professional/certified carpenter of any sort and by no means an authority on carpentry. This tutorial is the documentation of a perpetual amateur taking a stab at yet another craft. Therefore, whatever I state here is just an opinion on way method of constructing a bookcase based on personal experience. That being said, I will be more than glad to give you my take on this tutorial and answer all questions in the comments section as long as you regard it as just that: my take. And even more so, I would love to receive some constructive criticism just as long as it is just that: creative criticism. All other comments I will not delete (this is a free country), but I will not give them the satisfaction of a response, either.

This tutorial will teach you how to construct a Nomadic Media Bookcase similar to below. This bookcase has shelves designed to hold the maximum amount of CDs, DVDs, and VHS possible. In addition, as will be the case in all of my designs, there will be one allotted display shelf. 

What is a "Nomadic" Bookcase, you ask? Well, it's really anything utilizing Nomadic Technology. That is, primarily, technology of easy dissassembly,/reassembly, construction, & durability. Think if you were a nomad and had to have your stuff on the go for the Zombie Apocalypse. There are greater explanations out there for those curious (http://www.instructables.com/id/Woodworking-Making-wood-projects-without-using-na/). 

Nomadic technology seems to primarily rely on Nail-less technology or Irish Carpentry. That is, Mortise & Tenon style. See my last post for an explanation (here). You have 3 components of this design:

1. Mortise - the piece that will run through.
2. Tenon - the piece doing the running through of.
3. Peg - the piece that pins it all together.
 
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Step 1Tools/Materials Required

Tools/Materials Required
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1. TOOLS REQUIRED:
1.Workhorse - $38 
Any table you have can work for this. I find having tables devoted solely to construction projects (that were made for construction projects) helps. 

2. Jig Saw - $30

3. Clamps (2) - $4
C-Clamps really work best.

4. Various Files - $10
Make sure they work on wood. I also highly reccommend that of these wood files, you have a half round. It seems to work best for this project.

5. Power Drill - $20
Cordless is best. You'll already have the jig saw plugged in and will want to walk around freely with the drill. Keep it on the charger in between drills. It won't lose a charge easily, but boring holes as you will be through this thick of wood is taxing even to the greatest of power drills. 

6. Huge Ass Drill Bit - $4

7. Cardboard Scraps (2) - $0 These are to be cushioned in between your clamps and wood, to keep the clamps from leaving dents in your wood).

8. Mallet - $4 You'll want a mallet vs. a hammer to not dent your wood.

9. Angle Square (Large) - $7 

10. Rubber Sanding Block - $6 This just makes your sanding infinitely easier.

11. Hard Sand Paper - $2

12. Medium Sand Paper - $2

OPTIONAL

13. Mitre Saw -  $90. This can be avoided if need be. It just makes it incredibly easy to cut the pegs.
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Worst Case Start-up Cost = $127-$217
You really don't need fancy materials for this project. Borrow them from friends or buy them cheap. Look at my tools: they're nothing fancy. The blade that I use in the jig saw is the same one that came with it when I bought it. 

2. MATERIALS REQUIRED:
-Pine 2X8X16 (2) - $22
-Pine 2X4X8 - $2
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Materials Cost = $24

3. OVERALL COST = $24-$241
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44 comments
1-40 of 44next »
May 3, 2012. 11:05 AMWingusorDingus says:
Great concept. Had a few questions about your plans (pdf); the tenon slot in your pictures looks to be off set closer to the middle of the board then the end of the board but in the plans seems centered there is no mesurement one way or the other, it also shows the width (front of tenon to back of tenon) for the peg slot to be 1-1/2 inch x Length (end to median) to be 1-3/4 inch while the peg is only 1-3/4 inch at its widest. I was also wondering if I missed something but you said you used 2 2x8x16 for Mortises and Tenons 32 feet wood length but your plans call for 34 feet. Sorry to come off as a dbag but was just wondering. Great Idea though, plan to build both of your shelves this weekend.
Aug 14, 2011. 1:21 PMKittyF says:
here's a thought. your holes look oval, rounded at the ends. if your drill bit is the right size you can drill a hole at each end, then use your jig saw to connect the holes. voila! no turns with the jig saw!

Saw my granddad do that many many moons ago. He built a whole house. twice. LOL
Aug 29, 2011. 12:58 PMKittyF says:
I'm sorry, you'll have to find a younger person's address. my granddad's address is Heaven '72 , LOL it was always fun watching and helping him with his projects. I learned a lot I didn't even remember I knew.

you keep practicing and you'll find it results in less clean up after you get that technique down.
Aug 29, 2011. 7:08 PMKittyF says:
what you're doing when you connect the two holes is going from the extreme right of the bottom hold to the extreme right of the top hole, and then turn around and do it again on the other side. there really should be no clean up at all, if you get it over far enough. it's the aiming and getting right to the edge and no further, that saves you a bundle of time.

Try laying a straight edge on the outside of the holes to connect them, then mark a pencil line connecting them on each side of the holes so you can follow the pencil marks with your jig saw. That should do it. of course you'll still have to sand or file, but it should be much easier this way, I think.
Aug 19, 2011. 1:19 PMCoati says:
Love the book case here is a little different way to make the mortise I like.Keep up the good work excellent instructions.
Aug 23, 2011. 10:27 AMCoati says:
Not sure on the exact angle, not much just kind of sanded it to a slight bevel.But If you see how my shelf locks into the groove I cut into the side or leg.Makes it a lot stronger and easily done with a circular saw with the cut depth pre-set and a good chisel.I never got around to cutting a half oval or v into the bottom of the legs as well as some shaping on the top of the sides seeing yours might just get me up and making some more sawdust.Thanks 

Aug 13, 2011. 6:20 AMbatman1298 says:
very nice ible . but i would like to point something out you refer to your craftsmanship as being sloppy and being climsy. in my opinion you did a very good job and if you were to rough up the wood a little bit and put a multi layer antique finish on it people would think it was a antique. also the design you made would be referred to as country furniture which is never perfect looks good and is functional. keep up the good work
Aug 18, 2011. 11:26 PMGOLBABA says:
Hi, some PDF files on this subject you to send me an email
Aug 15, 2011. 10:08 AMtandemquadrant says:
Another trick for drilling squares out is to drill a hole into each corner of the square then stick your drill bit in and you're always cutting straight sides! :)
Aug 18, 2011. 11:26 PMGOLBABA says:
Hi, some PDF files on this subject you to send me an email
Aug 15, 2011. 7:28 AMArchergal52 says:
This is one of the most thorough and easy-to-follow 'ibles I think I've ever seen. I think even *I* could do this!

Well done!
Aug 15, 2011. 1:36 AMBRUL says:
shouldn't there be 16 pegs? Instead of 8?
Aug 14, 2011. 4:28 PMaloseman says:
Anyone notice the Tardis in the blueprints?
Great design by the way. And I like how you wrote it up to be thorough, whilst remaining simple.
Aug 14, 2011. 11:20 AMkvoss1 says:
Zach, since the unit is quite tall and not very deep, do you use anything to prevent the unit from tipping over, like a bracket fastening it to the wall?
Aug 14, 2011. 9:58 AMsarawelder says:
excellent ible. I love your attention to detail in the instructions.I am looking forward to making this!
Aug 14, 2011. 7:26 AMwhisperonthewind says:
Hey, I could actually do this! Thanks!
Aug 14, 2011. 7:43 AMwhisperonthewind says:
My only change would be toward a 1" board as opposed to 2" boards and shallower shelves. I don't have CDs and books to put on them but very lightweight wood projects that don't weigh much. Your idea will transfer easily. Thank you for being so clear and concise, as well as helpful. I've learned a lot from you today.
Aug 14, 2011. 7:33 AMwhisperonthewind says:
??? fellowess ??? That's as good as I've ever heard! Fellowess. I like it.
Aug 14, 2011. 7:32 AMwhisperonthewind says:
At my Home Depot, the first 6 cuts are free, but after that it's $1/cut (really!). They may allow 7 or 8 cuts free, if that's the end of it, but when I was getting several sheets of plywood cut for a project I'm working on, the cuts actually cost more than a sheet of plywood. S2S plywood, no less. And you want to be there when they cut it, because you can make sure it's cut correctly. Mistakes can be costly, especially if you're spending the money for something better than plywood.
Aug 14, 2011. 4:55 PMjimdkc says:
You know, of course... you should always wear eye protection when using power tools...
Aug 14, 2011. 2:10 PMcriggie says:
Funny - you got no comments for the f-bomb and the fireengine camper guy got ripped a new one for an s-bomb.

Aug 12, 2011. 3:11 PMKaptain Kool says:
Wonderful! I would recommend staining the wood or even painting it to improve the aesthetic appeal!
Aug 12, 2011. 10:57 AMj626no says:
This is a well written instructable Zach, good job and thank you for sharing!
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Author:zachsoniasummers(zachsummers.org)