Introduction: Non-Slip Spikes for Work Boots
Adding carbide steel spikes gives boots sure traction on snow and ice. I was not impressed with available spiked boots and spike strap-ons, so I bonded the soles of a pair of golf shoes to the bottoms of an old pair of work boots. To see my related instructables, including how to waterproof leather boots, click on "unclesam" just below the title above or in the INFO box to the right. On the new page that appears, repeatedly click "NEXT" to see all of them. Ethics Statement: Boots shown are made from the hide taken from an animal that most likely did not provide express written consent; however, no Shinola was harmed during the documentation of this project.
Step 1: Components and Tools
1 Pair old work boots having rubber soles: rubber cleats worn off, heels worn down, but uppers serviceable.
1 Pair soles from golf shoes that have metal spikes molded into them. (Golf courses now ban metal spikes, so most modern golf shoes accept plastic spikes that screw into threaded recesses manufactured into the bottoms of their soles. Plastic spikes do not provide traction on snow and ice. A search of golfers' closets and flea markets should yield a pair having the metal spikes. Metal golf spikes that would auger into the bottoms of any pair of shoes having thick rubber soles were commonly available years ago, but I could not find them during recent internet searches. If they could be found, it would only be necessary to screw some into the rubber soles and heels of the work boots, which requires a special tool).
1 Tube, 3.7 oz (110 ml), of shoe adhesive, such as Super Goo or ShoeGoo, sold at True Value hardware and stores that sell athletic shoes.
1 length of wood that will fit inside a boot, as an aid to clamping
1 saw that will cut off rubber boot heel
1 electric sander having coarse paper, or wood rasp
1 flat stick for shaping glue squeeze-out: popcicle stick
several clamps for holding golf shoe sole onto boot sole while goo is setting up
Step 2: Sole Searching
Saw off the heel from each work boot even with the bottom of its sole. I used a band saw freehand.
Smooth the cut area and remove remaining vestiges of cleats from the sole. I used a stand belt sander.
Cut and peel the shoes from the soles of the golf shoes and scrape away any loose debris.
Step 3: Stick With Me
Place piece of wood inside boot. Goo sets quickly, so first practice a clamping strategy using the dry shoe soles.
Trace the outline of a golf shoe sole onto its matching boot sole, then remove the golf sole and spread a thin coat of goo along that drawn outline. Apply a bead of goo along the outer edge of the golf sole and add an extremely generous amount anywhere inside it that will contribute to its bonding to the boot sole. Place the golf sole onto the boot sole, apply the clamps gently and spread any goo that squeezes out in a way that it will contribute to the bonding. Allow the goo to set at least 48 hours before removing the clamps, and wait several days before wearing the boots.
Step 4: Finished Boot
See my instructable for waterproofing leather boots. Be sure not to wear the spikes where they might do damage, and carry a change of footwear for use when you are no longer in danger of slipping.