Step 1: Crash Into Roll Up Door (broken Roll Up Door)
1.Take a vacation.
Heuristic #1: the smaller the vehicle the greater the velocity required. If contact with the door doesn't bring you back to a back to a somewhat more shared reality, just keep going, just keep going, your in no state for fine tuning anyways.
Step 2: Don't Trip.
Remember, the people around you are judging you. Just as you won't forget the day you smashed the 20,000 dollar roll up, your compatriots will refer back to it when your name comes up for years to follow. If you get as bent out of shape as that door you just mangled, and say fire and then rehire someone several times within that same 16 hour work day, your as good as gorilla glued to the laughing stalk. I have been present for 5 separate "door parties" these event's invariably become overnight famous, after you hit that door the next line that comes out of your mouth might as well be your middle name.
Trust me it doesn't matter how you feel right now, I know you just hit the roll up door, I know it was most likely because you were too lazy to roll the thing all the way up, which by the way is or should be SOP at at any shop inhabited by "artistic" peoples. Never mind all that, and your tendencies to throw objects around like your some sort of prima donna Marlon Brando who just loves waking up early for just enough dough to keep gas in the rust rocket and cheep beer in the fridge. Hold the satire for your funeral, Ignore those nasty feelings.The job at hand, (empathize with yourself in private) is to exude calculating self assurance, any onlooker should at this point be reminded that your damn well aware, that garage door metal manipulation was practically mastered eons ago by ex cons and Neanderthals no more intelligent than you or I, and that your pleased, no I say honored, to have yet another opportunity to demonstrate said mastery. That's right champ, your the chosen one.
Step 3: Call Them, Tell Them You'll Be Late
Better yet let no-one help you, your the one with skin in the game and you can skin it however you can't test two methods at the same time without sacrificing statistical significance, and they already know your the moron who wrecked the door. You've got nothing to loose, and if you let them help to be nice and let them get credit for fixing your mess, they'll make sure whatever method you choose confirms their world view. Send everyone with vocal cords home if you can, or set them to some other task. Go pour yourself a coffee and call the people your were going to see and announce the "door party" and that your going to be there 24 hours late. Don't give them more than this one reason or they will add you to the long list or unreliable witnesses, don't apologize, they will hear the will hear the word roll up door and instantly know your sorry that your parents were ever in the same room together.
My approach to the door party is get the twisted wreck down near the ground as soon as possible where the bumpers and access abound. The latter is one of the few tools in the shop that will totally ruined your life or even kill you. So heres a few scenery and what I think is safe and reasonable but if you like you like areal demolition derbies you can be a test pilot can just skip ahead to the "Equal and opposite reenactment" section Please send photos, your my hero. The reason I have the vice is that this was Scenario 2 as in I had to force the thing half way back into shape with a beam that served to support roll door tracks as well as give me a place to pull from. Being a betting man I would have just came around and hit it from the other side but the truck and protruding rack were all caged in.
Scenario 1: the door still goes down. Do not go up! Once a door more than an inch out of it wack clears the c Chanel guides and goes up onto the roll you might as well grab a few valuables and catch a bus to an exotic location like palm springs, hawk your stuff as soon as you drive (bottle necks are the mothers of all squeezes) AFTER IMPACT DO NOT FOR ANY REASON roll the tangled mess further away from the ground, motor or chain its a curtain on a shaft id hate to have to thread a greasy pinchy role door underneath the cover an back into the channels perched off to the side on a "dear osha latter. So if your one of those rare hesitant ease your way into the day lightfoot fabricator types, and the door goes down. Take her down to bumper level and skip to "cold setting" or equal and opposite reenactment..
Scenario 2. If the doors won't budge via chain nor motor, you can can use a couple of come alongs or ratchet straps attached to clamps (padded at door) on one end and the bumper of the offending vehicle at the other. You want to pull from the center and directly down. If one side falls faster than the other your going to have to balance force with additional ratchet straps. I used three and since a car parked right up against the door blocks access I tied full length 2x4s to the low end of the ratchet straps and just used body weight to leaver my door down
(see ms paint drawing)
Once its down you can move on to to the blocking/re-enforcement section and then the final equal and opposite reenactment slash cold setting to perfection.
If the door has come all the way out of the tracks call the nice people again and tell them 48 hours is more like it.
Scenario 3: As far as philosophy is concerned we're always in shit, it's just a matter or how deep and this is some deep shit indeed. If the door is bent or bowed more than 8 inches out, it could be a sharp crease in the middle or a sharp crease on one end or the other or both ends. If its the old bulge crease continuum wang dinger your no better off I assure you, but like I said so long as you maintained face and insulted everyone good ideas before claiming them as your own your on the right track, to seeking out some kind of a living in metal.
If you can unbolt the channel on one side of the door get a ratchet on an impact gun and pull it. Leave the top bolt in so you don't have to keep someone over time. or you can money up and swallow your pride and use an angle grinder and make one slit at at a time and slice the material and I know you its your worst day every your keeping so well concealed but mark your cuts with a sharpie and cut along the lines making several passes. (your not cutting the door, your cutting the guide channel you will weld back in at like midnight) do not plunge a cut off wheel into any cut unless absolutely necessary, for one it tends to grab and break the wheel and your knuckles and of course even if you don't fall off the latter and go through several wheels your cut won't be straight so take passes and enjoy the inhaled fiberglass and blade dust like the ill tempered neanderthal or reprobate or at least a back of the class doesn't sit still type you most likely are. Send someone for a six pack or maybe several, send the person who is most likely to talk shit about you to tell the neighborhood whats up and that your handling it like a boss. Guide the door down with any of my aforementioned methods or be a rebel and make up your own stupid way. Observe that the door is made up of lateral interlocking strips. see if you can't get the bent section free by sliding it latterly a few slats up above the deformation. Once you've got it out block the door up and pad the lower edge so the the angle iron (usually alloy) dent get flattened. Ramp a board up onto the stack. Keep fingers clear if you still have any left. Dive slowly onto the pile. If you went to flip the door section over and remove a 2x4 from the stack and go again. Now stomp the screwed up thiner lateral strips into line. Once you've got it flat, test roll, if it doesn't roll you can just accept that your roll up door upper limit took a hair cut, or you can cut out bad section and make a mail drop. If the damage is on one side you can cut down the width and fabricate a cage for a man door an thats always good. Trouble is that that will require careful planning and your all pissed off and bleeding money and probably getting Pidgin holed as yet another west coast flake for making excuses. Call around try to find used old grade door section or a like 200 feet of 10 gauge stainless steel piano hinge and make your own custom lower end of the door and then polish it all to look like the spirit of saint lewis. Keeping in mind doing too good a job is for chumps and that a entire brand new door can be had for like 12K, In any case once you pull it all together and get it all back in the tracks you must tack, and I say tack the cut out section back in place and somehow get it down and locked or your camping at the shop and maybe even doing a little of that aforementioned, Empathizing.
Step 4: Bracing C Channel So As Not to Pop Door Out or Deform Trough
Step 5: An Equal and Opposite Re-enactment Aka "cold Setting"
Now that you've got the door down to number level you can support the chanel the roll slides though or between on both sides by either welding addionsal plates onto the c chanel or in my case statically shimming steel scrap between the chanel and the nearby the cement curb and forming what could only be described as an abutment.
Step 6: Maintenance
Scrape the schmutz out of the channel and replace it with brand new Graphite schmutz minus the hair and carcinoidal air-born particles that had become trapped over the eons to serve as friction generators, aren't doing you any good unless you operate a Teflon factory. Your shop mates will thank you, and will be more likely to roll all the way up every time like they know they should