Introduction: Oil, Oil Filter and Air Filter Change on a Citroen C3 2006-2008

Picture of Oil, Oil Filter and Air Filter Change on  a Citroen C3 2006-2008
The Citroen C3 is a nice car, my only real grumble currently is that there is no Haynes manual out yet and it keeps being delayed.

So I'm writing up some of my notes as instructables on things as I do them, this should be a basic guide to success but hopefully the comments will help give some hints and tips of how to do things quicker and easier. 

Tools:
  • 15/16" Socket - For the sump plug, I think 22mm is the exact size but I didn't have one.
  • 27 mm Socket  - for the oil filter housing.
  • Old washing up (or shallow >5l) bowl.
  • Rags/old newspaper - Because it'll drip and be messy.
  • Philips screw driver - For the air filter housing. Please read the step, I'm hoping somebody will be able to share an easier way than I found.


Materials:
  • New filter - There are two sizes, my handy local spares shop sold me both and refunded the one I didn't need. For the 1.4l petrol I used unipart  UGCGFE585
  • New oil - I think this depends on where you are in the world (temperature) I used 5/40 because it gets chilly here in winter and it's what the book said.
  • New air filter - unipart UGCGFE2570

Step 1: Drain the Oil

Picture of Drain the Oil

Old engine oil can be both hazardous to people and to plants so please take care when draining the oil.

NOTE: Oil could be hot if the car has been running recently.
I also remove the filler cap first, I don't know if it helps draining but it makes me happier.

1. The sump drain plug can be reached from the front of the car, I put down some board and newspaper then used a cut down washing up basin to catch the oil. Ordinarily I'd use an old oil bottle with the side cut out, this leaves the screw-able lid as a handy pouring spout.

2. Remove the drain plug, I used a 15/16" socket but the internet says it's actually 22mm. The first photo is a view from the front of the car.

3. Remove the filter (see pictures 2, 3 & 4). It's inside a plastic housing slightly right of middle at the front. The housing needs a 27mm socket.

4. Leave the oil to drain while enjoying a cheery refreshing cup of rosie or changing the air filter.

5. When the oil has drained you can put a little rinse of new oil through if you like that sort of thing. I tend to use the dregs from last years oil change.

6. Seat the new oil filter into the housing, it sits on a peg. The filter housing cap also has the rubber washer replaced. Replace the housing cap. 

7. Replace the sump plug, some people use a little lock-tight. Nip up well.

8. Add new oil via the filler cap, it looks to take about 3.5l so add ~3.25l and check the dip stick while adding the rest.
NOTE: The point of filling is close to the exhaust manifold, any oil split on here will smell bad for a good few minutes so make use of your rags to keep potential spills off (or to wipe up).

9. Run the car and recheck the level is good.

Step 2: Air Filter

Picture of Air Filter

I'm hoping there's an easier way than I did so I'll post my method and hope for improvements...

1. Remove the four easily accessible Philips head screws on the filter housing.

2. ~~Curse at the two poorly accessible philips screws that stand between you and success. My normal screw driver was too long to get in, my short screwdriver had too wide a handle. I used a screwdriver socket and a universal joint.

3. Use a flathead screwdriver on the jubilee clip.

4. I couldn't remove the top of the housing completely but with all 7 screws undone the old filter can be pulled out from the front and the new one wiggled into position.

5. Tighten all the screws which were previously removed, curse again at those back two.~~

'' jhig1 suggestion in the comments is a much better way, it's sticky so should be the top one''

Step 3: Clean Up

Picture of Clean Up

Clean up!

- Get any old oil drips off concrete asap as they can stain. I have managed to remove oil stains with washing powder (for clothes), a small amunt of water and a stiff bristled brush but it's easier to put paper down.

- My local recycling centre (tip) take old oil, remember to dispose of it in an appropriate manner:
https://www.instructables.com/id/How-Not-To-1/step13/Do-Your-Own-Oil-Change-and-Poison-Mother-Earth/

- As mentioned the filler cap is close to the exhaust so when the car gets up to running temp any oil drops will begin to smell, if you have spilt around here wipe up as best as possible.

- I tend to check everything is tight again once it's been run, I've not had problems yet.

- I didn't have one this time but an old oil can with the side cut out makes an excellent pan to drain into and the original spout can be used to pour into a bottle for disposal.

Comments

jhig1 (author)2013-01-23

To avoid the problem with the 2 accursed rear screws on the air filter housing, remove the entire air filter housing from the car like so:
1. Remove the plastic battery covers.
2. Disconnect the big plastic pipe leading into the front of the air filter box.
3. Use a flathead screwdriver to undo the (jubilee?) clip where the rear of the air filter box connects to the engine intake.
4. Disconnect the rear air filter box connection by pushing the rear of the air filter box to the right, then lift the air filter box up and out (may take a little gentle wiggling).
5. Now you can undo the screws on the air filter box with ease.

Reinstall using the reverse procedure.

cbm104 (author)jhig12013-04-28

Cool, thanks!

jhig1 (author)2013-01-23

Be careful when re-inserting the sump plug and tightening it, to avoid damaging the thread on the sump (a previous dealer service on my C3 has damaged the sump thread so that I now have to use a sealant with the sump plug). The sump seems to be aluminium, which is much softer than the steel sump plug.

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