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Step 8Setting up the plumbing
First we will install the output air lines on the York this requires the use of compression, flange, or Roto lock fittings most are available at your local auto parts store.
Attaching the air line for the RV2 requires some fabrication. Either the milling and then tapping of a block to fit a O-ring and pipe thread to the oil separator, or welding of a pipe to the original output flange, I chose the welding option.
Now that the output pipe is installed you must install the oil air separator. This is needed to help capture the excess oil that is in the air leaving the compressor. At the bottom of the separator is a small stopcock in most new units the stopcock is easily broken plastic. After mine broke I threaded the hole to 1/4" NPT and installed a 1/4" ball valve.
Connected to this valve is a hose which is your oil return. This hose in then connected to the oil filling port of your compressor. if both the RV2 and York 210 this port is already threaded for 1/8" NPT so a hose barb is easily installed.
As the oil builds up in the separator you open the valve while the system is under pressure. The compressed air will force the oil back into the compressors oil sump to repeat the process.
From the oil separator you go to the manifold attached to the manifold is one of the most important components the safety pop-off valve I used one set to 150psi do not go high as most air fitting are not rated for higher. Along with the pop off valve is the pressure switch in this case it turns on at 110psi and off at 145psi allowing the system to cycle on and off as needed.
Also attached to the manifold is a quick disconnect, the type you use will be dictated by the type of air fitting you use on your tools. I installed a industrial quick disconnect for my tools and a universal for the times my I use tools with automotive fittings.
The last connections on the manifold are the ports for your air pressure gauge and your output to your air tank, the last part of your air compressor.
Attaching the air line for the RV2 requires some fabrication. Either the milling and then tapping of a block to fit a O-ring and pipe thread to the oil separator, or welding of a pipe to the original output flange, I chose the welding option.
Now that the output pipe is installed you must install the oil air separator. This is needed to help capture the excess oil that is in the air leaving the compressor. At the bottom of the separator is a small stopcock in most new units the stopcock is easily broken plastic. After mine broke I threaded the hole to 1/4" NPT and installed a 1/4" ball valve.
Connected to this valve is a hose which is your oil return. This hose in then connected to the oil filling port of your compressor. if both the RV2 and York 210 this port is already threaded for 1/8" NPT so a hose barb is easily installed.
As the oil builds up in the separator you open the valve while the system is under pressure. The compressed air will force the oil back into the compressors oil sump to repeat the process.
From the oil separator you go to the manifold attached to the manifold is one of the most important components the safety pop-off valve I used one set to 150psi do not go high as most air fitting are not rated for higher. Along with the pop off valve is the pressure switch in this case it turns on at 110psi and off at 145psi allowing the system to cycle on and off as needed.
Also attached to the manifold is a quick disconnect, the type you use will be dictated by the type of air fitting you use on your tools. I installed a industrial quick disconnect for my tools and a universal for the times my I use tools with automotive fittings.
The last connections on the manifold are the ports for your air pressure gauge and your output to your air tank, the last part of your air compressor.
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