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Hello! Today I will teach you how to cast small objects with the investment casting technique, also known as the lost-wax casting technique. This process involves creating a positive mold of the object, usually out of wax or foam, then using investment powder to make a negative mold of the object. The wax, or other material, is melted out by either a kiln or oven, leaving the negative mold behind. The negative mold is then filled with whatever media you want, usually metal. At the end, the plaster is dissolved in water, leaving behind the cast object.

WARNING:

Don protective wear when dealing with molten metal (metal can spit and sputter when being poured, so be careful)

Wear a mask when using investment powder (it contains silica, which is very bad for your lungs

SEE ALSO:

It is possible to make or improvise everything in this guide. Even the investing powder I bought can be substituted by homemade greensand.

Step 1: Designing and Crafting

Imagine if you could mold metal like wax, then have it take the attributes of that metal. This is that. Whatever you carve will be made into metal. Pretty cool, right? You can buy specially made wax, but like a true DIY guy, I made it myself;

Wax Recipe: (by weight)

10 parts white wax (tealight wax)

3 parts hot glue stick

1 part crayon (for coloring)

-Heat on medium

-Stir until mixed evenly

-pour into aluminum foil tins

When you make a ring, you want to make the hole first, so use a ring sizer, or just bore it until it fits fine.

I suggest using a mandrel or ring holder when carving, otherwise your liable to crush the ring. (which i did before)

From experience, a sharp exacto knife and a sheet of coarse sandpaper worked the best for carving, but whatever.

Unless you have a centrifuge caster, make sure you have a decent width to your ring, about 1/16 at the thinnest. It all really depends on your setup, so try casting a couple different styles to see what you can handle.

Step 2: Sprue and Powder

When you have carved all the rings you want, now you need to cast the negative mold. You must attach a wax stem, preferably 1/8 inch in diameter or wider, with a funnel shape bottom, onto the lowest or highest part of your creation. When you attach the sprue to the base, you want the sprue to be at the lowest point of the object. If the object has multiple lo points, you must attach a sprue to each. If you don't, the metal won't flow there. Cause metal doesn't flow up. Always leave at least 1/4 inch between sprues and I recommend 1/2 inch distance from wall. People have cast with thinner walls, but they are better than me at this. Once all the sprues are attached to the base, fit the cylinder over the cap, and fill it with the investment powder. This is the kind of Investment Powder that I use. Each brand varies in the recipe, so follow yours closely. Most recipes ask you to vacuum the mixture before and after you pour it, to eliminate any bubbles. A shop-vac and a modified container will suit our purposes. If you don't have a fancy sprue base and cylinder setup, like these ones, no problem. Improvising is the key to success. If you mess up, don't worry. The powder will dissolve in water, but your carvings won't. After the powder has been cast, leave it to dry in a warm (or hot) place for at least 8 hours. If done for any less, you are liable to get cracks. Cracks are wack, so don't do that.

Step 3: Mistakes Can (and Will) Happen

Don't be distraught, even an experienced artist will still screw up. It's completely normal, and it's how we learn. Expect it to happen at least once during your first time. And second time. And third. You know what, it's just gonna happen a lot. Just persevere. Keep on keepin on. This may not seem like a step, but I guarantee you that it will happen, at some point or another. Be fruitful and recycle what you can. No need to waste.

Step 4: Removing the Wax (by Any Means Necessary...)

If you have access to a programmable kiln, like the ones I have at my school, this step is easy. Simply place the mold in one, set to a slow cone 03 (burns organics), and fire away. If not, then keep reading. Being a DIY guy, I had to try out different methods, and using a oven worked fine. Place all the molds on a aluminum foil covered pan, with a slight angle, so the wax can pour out. Remember, the side with the holes faces down. Set the kiln to 400^F for 30 minutes, then done. If you suspect that the wax isn't quite all gone, then keep it in longer. You will smell wax doing it this way, so I suggest lighting up some candles. Don't worry, this should not harm anything. However, I can't account for everything, so use judgement when doing it this way. Alternatively, a propane torch will work, as I have used it before, but make sure not to concentrate the flame, else the mold will break due to heat stress. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE WEAR PROPER PROTECTION WHEN HANDLING HOT THINGS. I have burned myself countless times, so learn from my mistakes.

Step 5: The Fun Part.

USE CAUTION WHEN AROUND HOT THINGS!!!

I wore goggles, apron, and a pair of kiln gloves when handling the metal, and I still got burned.

The metal can be anything that you are able to melt. Please vent the area if you decide to use lead. It's nasty stuff.

I used zinc obtained from pennies...don't worry, the pennies I used were so disfigured, the bank wouldn't take them. The scrap yard also has raw ingots.

Anyway, I have a Lee lead melter, which has been modified for my use, and a small porcelain crucible to hold the metal. Heat the metal you plan to use for 30 minutes at it's melting temperature before you cast, just so that it's actually a liquid and not superheated slop.

You can also use the torch here, to melt small amounts of metal quickly.

Pour the metal as directly into the holes as possible. Don't try to get all the holes at once, rather heat the metal between casting, and take them one at a time. This is how you get the best castings.

Never handle the molds directly when casting. They can still retain heat hours after casting, so be cautious

Step 6: The Prestige

This is it. You eagerly waited as the metal inside the mold cooled. You slowly place it into a bucket of water with a pair of tongs. A steaming hiss telling you that you did the right thing. You the metal out, and it looks amazing, all shining and gleaming.

Ok, this is not going to happen. When it comes out it's probably gonna look ugly and pitted. Time to shine.

Place the mold in a bucket of water, wait until cool, then scrub with medium to fine brushes. Avoid being heavy handed, wouldn't want to mar the surface or scratch it, just remove any leftover powder.

Wash your hands after messing with the mold, wouldn't want that powder in your body.

Wear eye and hand protection, along with a mask when sanding or buffing metal.

My dad has been to the ophthalmologist more times than I can count, because he didn't learn as easily; Metal in the eye hurts like heck,and is not good for you or your eyesight.

Remove the sprue with a pair of heavy duty snips or pliers. Grind off the rest, or use a coarse file to remove the remains of the sprue.

Either buff the casting with a wire brush wheel or with fine sandpaper. ( this removes most of the pittings and any imperfections)

Polish to a mirror shine with a buffing wheel and some polishing paste (if you have access to one)

If you don't have access to one, talk to a jeweler, I'm sure one would be happy to help you for a fee.

Other people like the pitted surface, saying that is gives an antique or fatigued look. It all depends on whom you are making the ring for.

I know that this isn't the most detailed instructables, or the most "well-done", but I tried my hardest on this one, and all I want to do is spread the knowledge of what I have learned in the simplest way. A month ago, I did not know anything about casting, but now I've written an instructable about it. Anything is possible.

If you found this interesting or creative, please vote for me.-It is possible to accomplish this instructables without spending any money directly on things. The only thing I had to buy was investment powder, but homemade greensand can be used instead.

<p>I hope you still check this. I feel like I am missing something. In the step where you pour the metal into the investment, where are you supposed to pour (i.e. Where do you put a hole at the top and how deep should it be)? Other than that the steps are very clear to me. Thanks!</p>
The holes are created when the wax sprues are attached to the bottom of the bowl. When the investment powder is cast and then removed, the bottom of the sprues (wax sticks) are visible. The wax must then be burned out with the oven.
You must judge how much space is needed. Small things that are going to be gravity cast, the spacing can be 1/4 inch. That's means a spacing or 1/4 inch on all sides of the casting.
<p>Thank you for this Instructable...Very informative in easy-to-follow steps. :)</p>
<p>Reminds me of the process I watched my uncle use to copy a Studebaker door handle in the early 1970's. I was a kid then and don't remember the entire process, maybe you can fill in what I don't remember.</p><p>He started with the good right handle &amp; he made a 2 part plaster cast of the handle.</p><p>Then he took the plaster cast apart and removed the good handle. Then he put the cast back together and poured wax into the void. </p><p>He removed the wax copy, added some wax sprues and suspended it in a wooden box. Then he packed something that looked like thin clay into the box.</p><p>Later (I don't remember how long because I was not there), he turned the mold over and melted out the wax with a torch.</p><p>When I came over another weekend he melted pennies in a crucible he had on his workshop bench. I remember it was electric because he plugged it into a dryer outlet.</p><p> When ready he sprinkled some powder on top of the molten copper, scraped off the surface and poured the copper into the mold. I remember a lot of smoke and spitting.</p><p>When the metal was cool he broke the mold apart on the floor with a hammer.</p><p>The part was black and ugly when it came out but he cleaned and polished it up. He also had to weld two spots with a torch.</p><p>He sent the handle off to a plate shop and when it came back it looked better than the one from the passenger door. I got to pick both up and it also weight a lot more than the original. My uncle said the original was made of pot metal.</p>
Its just a slightly different process to get the same end result. He made a &quot;safe&quot; negative mold (where the original did not get harmed) then a positive with the wax. This way, you can modify it before you cast it. He used some sort of investment, like plaster or greensand, then left it to dry. The powder was probably flux or some sort of bonding or cleaning chemical. He scraped off any impurities and poured it. The metal was darkened by oxidation and reaction with powder, cleaned with a buffer. He plated it with nickel or chrome. Pot metal refers to any multi-alloy not intended, such as throwing scraps of lead, zinc, aluminum, nickel, and copper. That's why it usually weighs more than any base metal. If you have any further questions, please comment them. I may make an instructable based on this method, so thanks for sharing your story! Happy trails!
<p>Thanks, I remember him using plaster as part of the process and clay as part of the process. And you are correct, he did not want to damage the original part because the original was put back on the car.</p>
<p>Great!</p>
<p>Nice job. </p>
Thanks! All it takes is patience and time!
<p>Wow, congrats, and thanks for the wax recipe. I have a lot of candlewax and hot glue sticks lying around so I'll definitely try it :) Regular jeweler's wax can get pretty expensive, especially when I just want to experiment with shapes. Thanks!</p>
I hope it goes well, and don't be afraid to experiment, based on what shape you're creating. Good luck!
I did a lot of lost wax casting years ago. When I had multiple pieces to cast in the same metal, I'd put them on the same sprue and just make one shot. Depending on how much metal you're casting, make sure there's a bit of headspace over the top of the molds. Losing castings sucks, and it's dangerous. I used a metal casting flasks to hold things together, and I had a centrifuge, so that part was easy for me.<br><br>While the casting flask was right out of the oven, I'd put it in the centrifuge using tongs, heat the metal and swing it as soon as the metal shined brightly back at me. Then, I'd do something you didn't. I'd take the flask out of the machine and put it in a bucket of water. It would spit and hiss and boil like crazy and the plaster would all come apart. <br><br>Then I could fish out the workpiece and start cleaning it up. It was a lot quicker to do it that way, and that's the way I was taught. I never thought to let it cool gradually. <br><br>I don't have any of my old casting tools anymore, but you're piquing my interest. I want to start casting parts for tools.
<p>you can buy wax ring forms in varying hardnesses, its easier to do that than to make from scratch</p>
Very true! I simply show the recipe so people can do if from scratch, more for the experience. With the recipe i made, nearly everyone can make this wax, with various household materials. Quite D.I.Y.
<p>what were the mods made to your &quot;LEE'S&quot; melter and how was it done?</p>
I used a small socket set to remove hex screws that held down an inner &quot;container&quot;. I use a crucible instead of the provided &quot; container&quot;. I also changed the power cord to a thick, grounded cord. Much safer.
<p>Thank You, and for such a quick response! I never even considered my lead melter!</p>
Almost all lead melters can melt zinc, which is what I used, but you may be able to melt other metals, depending on your model. Good luck!
<p>Good advice. I want to try with glass. I plan to talk to a local expert about how to mass produce.</p>
I would suggest a flexible silicon mold with graphite dusting. Or like bottle companies, steel molds with a slight grease. It really depends on what you are making with what kind of glass. Happy trails!
This is a great instructable. Good job. I have always wanted to try this. The only thing holding me back was a lack of centrifuge. Now that I know I don't necessarily need one I may try it.
I've heard of people casting the metal and then swinging it around their head for about 10 minutes... It sound dangerous and exciting. Also that hydrogen peroxide is also used when mixing the investment material because it stops bubble formation or something.
<p>That would be called a sling caster. Relatively safe for the operator, you just need confidence to use one.</p>
<p>Thats great! I hope it goes well.</p>
okay. pewter would be a better metal to use. please be cautious of lead poisoning. and please be aware to not cross contaminate your tools with the filings. otherwise big tops on the instructions. happy casting.
<p>Yes pewter would be best, but it's expensive, and not easily accessible. Personally, I never cast in lead, because of the dangers, and I clean my tools after each project.</p><p>Also, if you learn a bit about metallurgy, then garage sales can hold a plethora of useful metals, like old D&amp;D characters for pewter. Thanks for the critique!</p>
Well done, Team Omega! Great first instructable!

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