Outhouse

Outhouse
Who needs indoor plumbing when for less than $300 you can have a perfectly good outdoor crapper. Check your local laws.
 
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Step 1The foundation

The foundation
A good foundation is the key to a good outhouse. Dig a hole about 4' deep, 3.5x3.5ft square. Make it a good hole with even sides because you'll have to line it.
One point about soil. If you have hard clay soil, make sure that the drainage around the outhouse is good to avoid too much water getting in, because it won't want to leave (this could cause splashback).
You've got your hole. Drop a wooden box with tarpaper wrapped around it in the hole to keep moisture out. Level and even out the ground around the hole and place a foundation made of treated 4x4s around it. The foundation will for this one was 4'x3.5' (this allowed a 4x8 sheet of plywood to be cut at 3.5ft, one piece for the floor and the other for the roof with an over hang. 4'wide on the floor and 4' deep for the roof).
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14 comments
May 1, 2011. 6:22 PMburntbob says:
Nice basic Instructable!
Feb 27, 2011. 10:14 AMCountrywings says:
Years ago, my great-grandmother used garden lime to sprinkle over the waste in the outhouse... worked good.

Countrywings
Mar 2, 2008. 9:40 AMthe_matneys says:
Most old school outhouses were made so that the door opens inward. In the summer it would really smell so you wanted to open the door to let in fresh air. Then if you saw somebody walking by you can push the door closed with your foot.
Feb 2, 2007. 12:00 AMnak says:
Win
Jan 8, 2007. 11:12 AMsusie says:
Plus you can rent it out as an in law apartment.
Oct 25, 2006. 8:26 AMdf00 says:
A really good way to prevent splashback, and control the direction of donations, use a bucket, take a large pail (round works better) and cut circular a hole in the bottom, remove all but 1/2" lip.

Use *NONRUSTING* screws, either brass, or coated, (from personal experience the last thing you want on a hot june morning is to fish a bucket out of a hole filled with... yeah... :( ) to screw it to the underside of the seat-box. Cut the round hole in the seatbox the same size as the plastic hole in the top. Infact if you make the seat-box the same height as the bucket, when the contents get about 12" below the bottom of the bucket, its time to switch to a new location.

Also, a trick to keep the smell down, if you have access to a fireplace/campfire pit/charcoal bbq, keep the ashes in a metal bucket with a lid. You can get stainless steel farm buckets from your local supply store for cheap. After each use, a light sprinkling of ash (1-2 cups) will help neutralize the smell.

As for the animals eating the seat issue, remedy the situation by using a foam seat. cut a peice of blue (or pink) insulation styro to fit. It has a few benefits; its removable for cleaning with mild dish detergent (ie salt removal), and its warmer in the winter when its -40 out.

The last thing to add is what to do with a spot when it *is* fullup.
Granted it shouldnt happen often unless you have high-use in which case you really should have a septic or some other means ie. composting/combustion toilet. What we do is the following;
1, dig and prepare the new location. (keep the dirt in a pile beside the hole you'll need it later eventually when its full)
2, move the outhouse to the new location.
3, now's a good time to fully dig out your fire-pit/fireplace/stove use all of its contents to cover the used hole.
4, cover the contents with the original pile of soil (you did keep the soil in a nice neat pile right??)

5, last but not least we like to plant some trees and shrubs in the area and over the hole, it keeps us from re-digging there any time soon and helps lower the footprint.
Oct 26, 2006. 1:08 PMdf00 says:
yeah, like i said its a light sprinkle, i dont have any technical data to back it up.. all i know is it *does* work through my years of experience. I dont know about it affecting the ph etc. but you're probably right, a vent-stack will do more to vent-away unwanted methane and other noxious gasses as long as you keep the seat closed.

And when I say relocate the house... I'm 27, we've relo'd the house twice in my lifetime. once because it was full, another because of some soil erosion made the house start to sink.

thanks for the good instructable. i'm gonna retrofit mine for a vent-stack I dont know why i never thought of it.
Oct 21, 2006. 4:09 PMhollasch says:
When installing new septic fields, one must first do a perc test to ensure that fluid will percolate through the soil at the right rate. This might be useful when siting an outhouse -- after digging the hole, perhaps you could dump water into it and time how long it takes to drain. I don't know what the rate should be, but since percolation varies from location to location, this might help you find a good location for your outhouse. Something to look up anyway. Please post back if you can with how well it holds up over time. I'm curious about how many uses you get out of a given location before you have to find a new site. Thanks for the instructable; nice job.
Oct 23, 2006. 11:19 AMIdahoDavid says:
You might want to consider a sheet metal cover for the outside of your seat base. In my Montana experience porcupines and other critters love chewing on the wood for the salt that accumulates. Can be kind of a nasty surprise in the middle of the night.
Oct 21, 2006. 10:15 PMaustin says:
haha set up an out house on one of those tiny strips of dirt between the sidewalk and the street. see if anyone will use it.
Oct 21, 2006. 9:22 PMStormed says:
I could totally use an outhouse in the middle of the city! Still very interesting to know.
Oct 21, 2006. 3:01 PMTristanW says:
haha this is great. Thanks man

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Author:Razortape
Surveillance guy, mobile and electronic. School for electronics, work on my own stuff.