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Step 5Connect the power and attach to the wall
DO NOT work with live wires, and do this at your own risk.
There is too much liability to explain how to wire an outlet, do this project without disconnecting the outlet from the wires, keep track of how it's wired when you take the wires off, or have someone who knows how to do it, do this part for you.
once the power is connected, use the screws that came with the face plate to attach the charger to the electrical box in the wall.
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my wife chose it, I didn't like it at first but it has grown on me.
This is a nice idea but it's just not worth accidentally frying yourself, your loved ones or burning down your house through faulty wiring.
the issue isn't the danger while doing it. it's what many many many many many people have repeated many many many many times: by doing this it's a potential hazard.
Didn't know they could lose their license, so I probably wouldn't ask them after all.
And I know lots of people have said the same thing. just couldn't resist myself.
:)
Lampare2000, the USB faceplate you linked too wouldn't work either as that doesn't eliminate the transformers being inside the wall box and the electrical outlet being mounted to code.
http://store.fastmac.com/product_info.php?products_id=458 - This is the only safe way to do what is done in this instructable, will cost around $10. But you'll have to wait till next year before they're available.
Also.. there is a difference between something you make, being UL listed, ( which you are correct, you can't really do that ) and violating NEC code by using a UL listed device in an unapproved maner as part of perminate premise wiring, thus violating NEC, which is what I was pointing out to the one commenter who was saying there was no code violation.. which there obviously are several.. but the point being, more importantly, that its a safety issue. If one thinks they do not get warm enough to start a fire, they are wrong, since they do not have to get hot enough to burst into flames to start a fire.. only get hot enough to slowely degrade the plastic they are made out of.. then the internal support of the device begins to fail, by softening, allowing for potential of direct short circuiting of the device, and THAT causes the fire. So in an enclosed confined space, a " little warm" can be WAY TOO warm.
Yes, I was agreeing with you the NEC part.
Besides being in violation of several code issues here... its just dangerious.
As for the "green" thing, humans are responable for only 3% of the worlds "green house gasses".Its true, look it up.Trees come in first place. Should we stop them from rotting or just cut 'em all down? As for for energy consuption (except for just saving money)...MEH..., the US will always be dependant on foriegn oil because it makes far too much money for the congressmen , senators, presidents and other corrupt rich people of this country.
That being said, I think it's a nifty idea man, I'm gonna make one!
Human activity never ceases, unlike nature, which has natural breaks in it's cycles that allow for recovery.
There's a good resource at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greenhouse_gas for a better understanding of greenhouse gasses, and the roles they play in our atmosphere.
I agree with you, in that, we will remain dependent on foreign oil for a long time to come. Greed begets greed, and unfortunately our government is a veritable "black hole," drawing everything into itself that isn't bolted down. I just wish they'd suck in a portion of those pesky greenhouse gasses. :)
According to my old prior training, you sound right on the first, but not on the last. Remember carbon dioxide is heavier than air, to keep it near the plants and us. That stuff don't harm us until its over a certain percentage, but we are long from there. the more we keep the earth green, and allow the green to be used for foodstuffs and not for fuels the more people we can sustain.
For food production we need to move away from petroproducts, and to a electric/solar or whatever mover. Like an electric tractor. Which means more infrastructure, more jobs to maintain the infrastructure, which we are not doing. I don't and won't see general motors, or volvo making roads for us, or con electric putting wires in to help us without "Big Government".
Human activity, bad, ? become compost for that. Human activity creates the oppertunity for others to progress and for civilization to move.
It is a neat idea ... but that's not a safe way to do it.
It's illegal to work with electrical outlets and stuff if you live in an apartment complex unless you are a licensed electrician (in the states anyways). If this causes a fire, you can be sure the fire department will find it and you will be held liable, in addition to being responsible if anyone dies.
It's a cool idea, but not one I would recommend.
Sorry for the rant, I can't stand it when people are over the top conservatives!
Good job to the author very inventive! could be modifyed for the safty freaks but good job, I like it.
The main point is its very very unsafe. The second minor point is its wasting electricity.
I'm personally not that worried about tha tenth of a watt this would draw, but I am very concerned that it's not safe, and it also violates electrical code at least two ways, which will invalidate your insurance if you ever have a fire.
Not providing proper ventilation for the adapter is probably not a good thing though possibly not a violation.
The outlet is not properly mounted, it's just floating there, that is likely to displease an inspector, though it may not be specifically against a code (though I wouldn't be surprised if it was).
Now being as the wall wart is self contained and sealed to the outside plate that should qualify as the divider so long as it can't come off from the plate before the plate breaks, The outlet floating around thing could be solved by beding at 90 deg. and riveting a car audio backstrap (3/4" wide x 9" long bendable metal) to each tab and bending again at the opening of the box, then trim to length with a metal shears. IF there is clearance for this top to bottom.
Second option is the solder 14-18 gauge wire directly to the plug prongs and heatshrink tube each prong individually. NO electrical tape as substitue. This eliminates the oulet. You now have a whip to wire nut to.
And finally if this is a switched outlet your all green and its better because you have control over the draw.
Finally using option two you now have a prototype item you can show a company and have they build it in a ONE peice plastic mold. Ask them to add a front side push button for power and a cute blue LED light and you have a product that could probaly go to market for $14.95-$19.95 and make 200 margin points (100%) markup. Have the chinesse make it and the
profit would probaly double again.
If I knew the right people I would do this instead of typing about it.
Thanks for reading all this HA!
The front of the device box whether its a single gang box or a 4x4 with a single gang-ring should be atleast even or atleast less than a 1/4 inch recessed from the front of the drywall. The receptacle cannot be recessed inside the junction box. but should be mounted on the surface of the drywall.
Granted this is very cool but being an electrician this raises some red flags for me, especially if people who know nothing of electrical are making this modification. I dont mean to come down on anyone, im just looking out for the well being of others.
The mini usb chargers are only slightly bigger than a plug anyways and you can use them at any outlet so I don't really see the advantage here. If there was a how-to on how to add an extra usb port to an existing standard outlet, I would be interested.