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My wife was making potato wedges when in the middle of cooking the bottom oven element catches fire and starts to sparkle like a party sparkler. I run for my camera and when I get back to the kitchen its over my wife turned off the stove and when I turned the stove back on nothing happens.

I wish my wife did not turn off the stove so I could have gotten photos of the bottom element throwing off sparks it was neat. Oven blows up and no photos bummer, the white marks are from the electrical fire. Now if I take too long getting to the repair she might fix it herself like she does her computer.

My parents owned an appliance store in Toronto before they bought the farm north of Shelburne so if I repaired one of these I repaired a thousand. This repair usually takes about twenty minutes if you have the parts.

A point of note KNOW YOUR STOVE I can’t count the number of times I went out on a service call for my father on a long weekend just to turn on the oven so a customer could cook their turkey. They only use their oven once or twice a year and the timer had the oven turned off. Minimum charge 1 hour emergency and holiday double fee $250 an hour just to turn your stove on.

Now most repairpersons would come into your kitchen open the stove look at it and say yep it’s broke. Then they would take out the two screws holding the burner in place pull out the burner disconnect the wires and go out to their truck to retrieve a replacement burner. They come back connect the wires to the replacement burner, screw it in place, close the oven door, turn the oven on, and start to fill out the bill as he waits for the oven to heat up to confirm it is working. A lot of work for 2 to 3 hundred dollars isn’t it.

I’m not most repairpersons;I have all kinds of salvaged spare parts I just have to find out if I have the right oven element.

Now that the fun part is over it’s time to make an Instructable on how to repair an oven element?

Step 1: SAFTY FIRST

I cannot express this enough SAFTY FIRST, this stove runs on 240 volts at 30 amps that is 7500 times what is needed to kill you so turn off the power before you do anything inside the stove. If your stove is hardwired turn off the breaker or remove the fuses, don’t just loosen the fuses take them out. It may be a pain to go back and forth from the breaker box every time you want to test something but it is not as painful as being fried at 240 volts and 30 amps.

I am lucky my stove plugs in so all I have to do is unplug the stove when I want to do a repair. First I pull the stove out and unplug the stove, if you don’t get back there often this is a good time to clean behind the stove and retrieve your pet’s toys.

Smokey likes to make my wife retrieve his toys from under the appliances.

Step 2: Remove All Damaged Parts

Before testing; remove all visibly damaged parts and render all lines safe, they are a hazard that can be rendered safe and SAFTY FIRST.

Elements are connected by crimp on connectors that ether push on or they are screwed on ether way disconnecting the wires is easer from the back.

Remove the back cover of the stove and inspect all the wires, remove all damaged or burnt wires and cap or wrap in electrical tape, in my case this part was easy nothing was damaged in the back of the stove so I disconnected the leads from the bottom element and covered the crimp on connectors with shrink tube.

Step 3: Removing the Element

Now that the wires are disconnected from the bottom element it is time to remove the bottom element inside the oven, on this stove the bottom element is held in place with two screws. I take out the two screws, remove the element, and put the screws back in so I don’t lose them, they will be needed to install the new element.

Once I have all the damaged parts removed I sweep away all debris before testing.

Step 4: Testing

Now that you have all the damaged parts removed test what you have left, start by connecting your meter to the element leads, SAFTY FIRST do this before you plug the stove back in or turn on the power. Set your meter to the highest setting and only lower the setting if you need to, my meter only has two settings for AC, 750 volts and 200 volts so I set the meter for 750 volts.

Then plug in the stove and test all the oven functions, when on bake the bottom element leads should register source voltage, in my case 240 volts much higher than the 200 volt setting on my meter.

When on broil the bottom element should show 0 volts and the upper element in the oven should get hot. Close the oven door and wait for the oven to reach temperature and the broil element turns off, this tells you the thermostat works.

Once you have confirmed everything works unplug the stove and disconnect the meter from the bottom element leads.

Step 5: The Oven Element

The oven’s element is a steel tube filled with white powder and a filament like the one in a light bulb running through the center. This one got so hot it was throwing sparks like molten steel, electrical arks, and flames. The bubbling on the element you see is the melted outer tubing of the element.

An element should be black and smooth with no marks, on some blown elements it may be as subtle as a small crack or swelling in the element.

So I went through my spare parts and found three oven elements of which only one was close to the one I needed to replace. I could have used this element but I wanted one closer to the original and it gives my wife a chance to clean the oven without the element in the way.

I decided to put the stove back together so my wife could use the stovetop to cook and when my local appliance store opens on Monday get a better matching element.

A good repairperson will tell you when he is substituting a part for one that should work.

Step 6: Mondays Here

Well Monday came and the appliance and music store is open, yes they sell and repair appliances and musical instruments. The good thing is they have the exact element I need, $35.oo with taxes.

You can see how the new element is smooth and uniform compared to damaged one

Step 7: Installing the Element

Now that the oven has been cleaned I unplugged the stove and remove the backing and the two screws that hold the element in place. I put the new element in place and screw it to the back of the oven, then Iremove the shrink tube and attach the wires and put the backing on the stove. Once I have the stove assembled, I plug the stove in and push it back in place before testing  the oven one last time.

Step 8: Final Test

You can just turn on the oven and see if the element gets hot however I like to check the thermostat one last time. You do this by placing an oven thermometer in the oven and watching it go through a couple cycles and checking the temperature seeing if it is the same as the setting on the oven control.

Step 9: The Repairperson

Weather the repairperson is a half-blind, grey haired, fat S.O.B. like me or not don’t expect them to clean the stove, and at one hundred dollars and up an hour that is an expensive maid.

Most repairpersons come into your kitchen open the stove look at it and say yep it’s broke. Then they take out the two screws holding the burner in place pull out the burner disconnect the wires and go out to their truck to retrieve a replacement burner. They come back connect the wires to the replacement burner, screw it in place, close the oven door, turn the oven on, and start to fill out the bill as he waits for the oven to heat up to confirm it is working. He works for 15 minutes and charges you the minimum labour, service call, parts, and taxes. Count on paying two hundred or more.

I spend a little more time testing and checking the stove and the oven element cost $35.00, total cost to me, time, parts, and taxes 30 minutes and $35,oo.
<p>in step seven when i re attach to the oven wall ...i screw the screws in but they just keep spinning and wont tighten.....everything is flush to the wall....same screws that were taken out.....hmmmm?</p>
<p>It is not uncommon for the screws to strip when taking them out try a slightly larger screw. </p>
<p>lady kenmore oven 20 years old</p>
Hello, I have a galaxy range and the bake element is burned out the tag with the model number is blank now. I have found 2 different elements on sears parts direct for 2 different model ranges. The pictures both look to be the same. What would happen if I put in an element that just looked the same? Not sure what to do. Don't really want to buy a new stove.
<p>If it is the same size it should work.</p><p>If they look the same they are the same.</p><p>When I see a stove out for waste pickup I snatch all the parts I can. They may not look exactly the same but quite often that does not matter.</p>
<p>Thank you for the advice. When my oven element went, I called my home warrantee company who had a repairman from Sears show up but when I cleaned the oven before he came I found holes in the upper corner of the oven liner that looked like it had melted so wouldn't replace the element because of safety and liability. He tried to see if it could be replaced but it is not a replaceable part and the warrantee company won't cover it because they don't cover &quot;structural damage&quot; or &quot;manufacture defects&quot; I have had no fire in the oven, nor did I do this damage and I thought that oven liners were supposed to be made of metal. It wasn't the element that caused this as it is on the bottom and the damage is in the top left corner. When I tried to ask Frigidaire what their oven liner is made out of so I can find the proper repair patch, they insisted that it was made out of metal. I know that metal can melt at extremely high temps but this oven just had regular average use and I only used the self cleaner twice. I found a research company that is willing to do some basic tests to find out if it is metal or not but I would have to make an even bigger hole to send them a sample then patch it. Have you even run across anything like this? Is the metal they use so thin that regular use can melt it? I need to find a way to safely patch it so I can then replace the element myself since I don't think a repair person will do it with a patch. Any advice?</p>
<p>Bad paint job.</p><p>Steel burns and sometimes at very low temperatures, take steel wool and touch a match to it and it will burn. </p><p>They make ovens out of cheep steel so the oven is coated with glaze to make it easier to clean and to prevent holes like the one you describe.</p><p>You can't patch that and use it more than once without taking the oven completely apart welding in a steel patch coating it in glaze and baking it in a kiln.</p><p>The repair man is right you need a new stove, if the stove is still under warranty the manufacture should replace it. </p>
This reminds me of a friend who had a stove that hadn't work for a couple of years. I unplugged the heating element, cleaned off the grease so it would make good contact again, plugged it in, and Voila! It worked. My friend thought I was a genius.Thanks for your story.
I like your 'ible a lot... would have loved to have it several years ago... and again this past June... I had to &quot;fake&quot; it... and sadly, without the presence of mind to flip the breaker... but fortunate enough to avoid turning into a crispy critter. Will be sure to seek this out when the element disintegrates... and it is pretty spectacular... first time was when I was cooking a turkey. Finished it on the BBQ. Second time, not nearly so important a meal.
The principles of appliance repair are simple but there is a lot of voltage and current and I think the safety tips are more important.<br> <br> I was checking a refrigerator that kept blowing the breaker I unplugged the fridge and set the breaker and nothing happened.<br> <br> I plugged the fridge in and a great flaming arc came out of the receptacle burning my hand.<br> <br> The fridge was fine, the receptacle was defective, and I was in the ER being treated for electrical burns.<br> <br> That is when I learned ware gloves to.<br> <br> Did you checkout my Stove Top Repairs<br> <br> <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Stove-Top-Repairs/" rel="nofollow">https://www.instructables.com/id/Stove-Top-Repairs/</a><br> <br> Joe
Nicely explained. <br> <br>I had to do the front replacement version on my wall mounted oven; not so easy to get at the back... <br> <br>Off topic, is there some rationale to that shape of Smokey's food bowl? Never seen one like that before.
Yes Smokey's bowl is designed to keep him from eating to much at one time. He is the type to eat until he pukes.
Good ible, accurate and to the point.
Well this is handy to know. Will have to keep this stored in the old gray matter for when it happens to me. Thanks!
glad to be helpful
Very good work, Josehf!
Nice dude

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Bio: I am a photographer, a tinker, an electronics technology engineer, and author; I write short stories and poetry for the love of writing. I started ... More »
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