Introduction: Over-the-sink Dishrack

Picture of Over-the-sink Dishrack

I wanted more space on the counter, so I made an over-the-sink dishrack.

I wanted to use a branch for the front support to make it look more interesting.

Step 1: Attaching the Branch to a Plank Makes It Easier to Drill - Part 1

Picture of Attaching the Branch to a Plank Makes It Easier to Drill - Part 1

The front of the new dishrack was made from a branch. I needed to drill a row of holes to hold the rods so that they would be parallel and form a straight, flat surface. First, I supported it with scraps of wood so that the side I wanted the rods in pointed straight up.

Step 2: Attaching the Branch to a Plank Makes It Easier to Drill - Part 2

Picture of Attaching the Branch to a Plank Makes It Easier to Drill - Part 2

To keep the branch from rocking or twisting when drilling, I attached it to a plank of wood. First I put a screw through the left end. I didn't mind the hole because the last few inches of the branch would later be cut off to make it fit between the cabinets. On the right end I used screws to pull a chain very tight over the top of the branch. Clamps were not an option since the plank would need to slide freely on the drill press table.

Step 3: Getting Ready to Drill - Part 1

Picture of Getting Ready to Drill - Part 1

I clamped a board to the drill press table to serve as a guide. This made sure the holes I drilled were all in a line.

Step 4: Getting Ready to Drill - Part 2

Picture of Getting Ready to Drill - Part 2

I wanted the holes to be spaced at ~3/4" intervals so I used a tape measure and a mark on the drill press table to know where to drill. To keep my hands free for more important things, I clamped the body of a tape measure to the drill press table and stapled the end of the tape to the board supporting the branch. As shown in the quick video, the tape would move with the branch, which let me count off 3/4" intervals.

Step 5: Drilling Holes for the Front of the Dishrack

Picture of Drilling Holes for the Front of the Dishrack

The rods I planned to use were 3/16" in diameter so the holes needed to be slightly larger. Because the drill press can hold everything steady, I went up by a small amount (1/64") and used a 13/64" drill bit. If I were drilling by hand I would use a slightly larger bit so that even if I didn't drill perfectly parallel holes, the rods could move around to be parallel.

I drilled ~1/2" deep holes by eyeballing the depth gauge built into the drill press. Wrapping a piece of tape around the drill to leave the bottom 1/2" exposed would have been a smarter way to measure. I couldn't set a stop since the branch was not flat.

Step 6: Testing the Fit of the First Two Rods

Picture of Testing the Fit of the First Two Rods

I cut steel rods for each end so that there was ~1/4" of space between them and the wall. I planned to drill holes in the back board almost all the way through, leaving only 1/8" of wood. This would give the rods about 1/8" of space to slide back and forth. Put another way, I would need to cut the rods to within 1/8" of their ideal length to make them fit. This proved tricky, so I'd recommend giving yourself more wiggle room. The thicker the pieces of wood you use, the larger your tolerances can be.

Step 7: Drill the Back Board

Picture of Drill the Back Board

Again, I drilled 13/64" holes at 3/4" intervals to hold the rods from the back. I set the depth gauge to stop at about 1/8" from drilling all the way through. Drilling a flat surface is much easier, so skip the branch and do both the front and back like this if you value your time.

Step 8: Test the Back Plate

Picture of Test the Back Plate

I assembled the front and back wooden supports with the outer rods to make sure things fit. Eventually, they did. Good time to confirm that the rods can't slip out if you wiggle them.

Step 9: Paint the Steel

Picture of Paint the Steel

Wood dowels may have been a better idea. Stainless steel rods are definitely better, though harder to cut. Aluminum rods would also have been better, but at $1/foot, I wasn't excited about dropping $40 on them. And I had a pile of steel rods, and have had good luck with Rustoleum clear coat for steel exposed to the elements. Time will tell.

Paint outside!

Update: steel is beginning to rust! So use stainless, aluminum, wood, or just paint it better.

Step 10: Make Sure You Cut the Rods to the Right Length

Picture of Make Sure You Cut the Rods to the Right Length

I tied a guide line between the two outer rods, which I knew were the correct length. Use something light so you can put a little tension on it without it bowing the metal rods much. You don't want this to sag much for accurate measurements.

After the string is up, place a rod in an empty hole, mark where it crosses the string, and cut the rod at that place. Repeat.

Step 11: A Note on Cutting Rods One Handed

Picture of A Note on Cutting Rods One Handed

These 24" bolt cutters made quick work of the rods, but it's hard to get the cut in just the right place if you're using both hands to squeeze the handles together. If you can attach them to a surface life will be much easier.

Here I'm using the same piece of wood I had the branch on, and the same chain and screws. Two more wood scraps on either side make a quick channel to keep it upright. The whole thing can now be clamped to a table.

Alternately, I suppose you could leave the rods sticking in the branch and just cut them where they cross the string. That's what I'd do next time.

Step 12: Assemble the Rack to Make Sure Everything Fits

Picture of Assemble the Rack to Make Sure Everything Fits

This was a little maddening but gets easier after you have a few rods spanning both pieces to hold everything in place. I slid the rods partly out of the front one by one to get them into the back. If you look closely you can tell the front and back needed to be squeezed together a little more.

Step 13: Install the Dishrack

Picture of Install the Dishrack

By sheer luck, the rack was just large enough that it would stay in place when pushed between the cabinets. This made it possible to mount the rack without a second person holding it.

For the back, I put one screw into a stud and two into drywall anchors.

For the front I put a screw through the wall of the cabinet into each end of the branch. Drilling a pilot hole can help the screw go in and prevent splitting.

Step 14: Done

Picture of Done

I rubbed the wood with a ~1:10 mixture of beeswax:mineral oil (heated and stirred to form a paste). Mineral oil by itself works great too - same stuff lots of folks use for their cutting boards.

Comments

NonasDIY (author)2015-11-19

You can put low light plants on a shelf under to water them. I have a window at my sink and have plants in a planter thinking of mountuing a dish rack over them and maybe some door to cover the dishes

thundrepance (author)2014-09-23

now i know that i don't have to hire someone who will charge me an arm & a leg, thanx to you!

thundrepance (author)2014-09-23

now i know that i don't have to hire someone who will charge me an arm & a leg, thanx to you!

susiw (author)2014-08-12

This kind of shelf is common in Finland. It is strange that it is not used almost anywhere else places - http://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Astiankuivauskaappi-20060227.jpg

thundrepance (author)susiw2014-09-23

i see these in other people' homes, but never had one myself. i've seen them inside cupboards, too!

mded (author)susiw2014-08-16

I've heard they're common there but I couldn't find any manufacturers selling in the states. It's surprising IKEA or someone else hasn't caught on.

sadbluekitty (author)2014-08-26

I would LOVE to do this, but I live in a rent house. The back wall is a mirror that has been wall papered over (someone tried to put a nail in it apparently and cracked the mirror so the whole wall looks terrible) I would have trouble anchoring it. My landlord is really strict about stuff like holes in the walls. Very strict. If I find an alternative I will have to try this out.

jdollarbergertharp (author)2014-08-09

I love this! I hate clutter on countertops and solved it with hanging wire fruit baskets over the sink to dry washables! I don't have cabinets, I have windows over/behind sink.

Sorry for a "side" posting, I misplaced a mug of the same fruit pattern as that plate and need the description if you wouldn't mind written on the back of that plate so I can replace my mug. It would be so appreciated.

mded (author)jdollarbergertharp2014-08-16

Sure thing. savoir vivre luscious JJ017

karalalala (author)2014-08-12

Genius. I'm saving this in my "future dream house project" folder! Thank you so much.

lumpy11 (author)2014-08-10

Love this idea! I collect drift wood and have buckets of it. I make all kinds of things. This gives me so many ideas. Thanks for the inspiration. I've been trying to think of something to use in my shower as a shelf. This would be great if I water proofed it.

f.3 (author)2014-08-10

Lorddrake said it best. I also like how you explained the things that you learned as you were going, possibly making it easier on others that may try to make this. Excellent 'ible way to go!

jjdebenedictis (author)2014-08-10

Using the branch was the perfect touch. It made a wonderfully functional project beautiful too!

Victor805 (author)2014-08-09

I have one of these and it is very handy, you can let the dishes in the rack without needing to move them when they're dry or because the tray of the conventional dishrack is full of water. I would suggest to put a pair of cabinet doors. That way the dishes are hidden and it looks more neat.

tofugami (author)2014-08-08

Brilliant use of space.

rimar2000 (author)2014-08-08

Very nice design, congratulations.

LynxSys (author)2014-08-08

That's an attractive and functional way of customizing your kitchen, and your Instructables has a lot of neat tips and tricks for getting things done when you're working alone. I also like the use of the natural wood. A very nice project!

Natalina (author)2014-08-08

This is a great idea and well executed. Thanks for sharing!

Lorddrake (author)2014-08-08

absolutely brilliant setup with the tape measure. Clamping the body on one end and tacking the ruler to the other end. I'm kicking myself for never having thought of that all the times I have been doing a solo DIY project and fought with the tape measure.

I also like you use (and reuse) on that temporary jig for drilling the wood and cutting the metal rods. Always nice to see active examples of "work smart not hard".

Keep up the great work!

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