Introduction: Overwatch Standard Issue Stun-Baton V3

Picture of Overwatch Standard Issue Stun-Baton V3

This Stun-Stick project stems from my (obvious) long held obsession and fandom of the beloved source game Half Life 2

I wanted to give this idea another shot, after the first two versions attracted much positive feedback despite fragmented and hasty design and implementation.

My overall goal was to streamline the design while packing a much larger punch (in this case 400 KiloVolts!)

To begin, I visited my local home depot, as the main candidate for the stun-sticks structure was good old durable and modular PVC piping!

Here's a list of all the parts I used in this project along with their cost

The Piping

The Pipe ~ $1.64

1" Coupling (the head) ~ 53¢

1" to 1/2" Coupling ~ 92¢

3X 3/4" Coupling ~ $1.23 Total

3/4' to 1/2" reducer ~ 54¢

The Electronics

The High Voltage Step-Up Module ~ $2.21

The 18650 Batteries ~ $4.59 [Always good to have extras]

TOTAL $11.66

Damn that's inexpensive

I ripped the button off of some old circuit I had, any button will do :)

Additionally, I added a 3.5 mm audio jack I had laying around at the base of the baton due to its 3 connectors (middle tap lead for the junction between the batteries), allowing me to balance/charge the 18650's inside without dismantling the whole thing, waiting on a 2S balancing board for the batteries, which I will incorporate to ease charging.


Step 1: The Zappy Part!

Picture of The Zappy Part!

This element of the baton took a few turns....

The biggest challenge this project brought was the incorporation of high voltage elements and exposed wires in such close proximity

To remedy this I used hot glue to insulate the crossing wires, so as to create a greater resistance inside, despite the proximity, and allow maximum zappage to be conducted externally.

As shown in the images above, I drilled 8 holes and fed two lengths of DuraSteel SS wire criss-crossed through the holes to the outside, and back in the ones on the base, approximately 5 milometers from the top and bottom, spaced evenly radially around the 1 Inch Coupling. Be sure the 3/4th inch coupling, as well as the 1" to 1/2" reducer are already in place when drilling, and snug enough that they won't come loose after everything is nicely aligned.

Not shown is me drilling our the base of the 1" to 1/2" reducer on the top (middle picture) from the other side, to allow the High Voltage module to fit higher up inside the head, closer to the crossing leads.

The two battery connectors were then run down the body of the baton (3/4" pipe) and connected, positive to battery positive, and negative to one side of the momentary switch.

Step 2: Battery Housing // Hookup

Picture of Battery Housing // Hookup

Overview

I was pleased with the application of 18650's in this project. The high power density made for a perfect power source, delivering a high power spark for a low profile power pack. The 3/4" pipe happened to fit the 18650's very snug, yet allowed high gauge wire to connect alongside them. The simple schematic above shows the logical wiring of all components inside.

The Switch

For the switch, I found a mini push button lying around on a PCB, so I removed it and soldered it to two wires that were also attached to the PCB. Basically for this step, you need to press something connecting the battery to the high voltage module, I entertained plenty of ideas for this step, one included a 555 timer circuit to allow a momentary button to toggle the device on and off. Throwing a live zapping baton? Well its an option haha...

(NOT A RECOMMENDATION, YOU ASSUME FULL RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY BIOLOGICAL ENTITIES ELECTROCUTED)

Battery Specifics

The two 18650's I wired in series, soldering the negative of the first with a wire to the second positive. A tap was later inserted to the packs positive, negative, and center where the two batteries connect. The tree taps were run alongside the batteries down to a 3.5 mm audio jack (god forbid anyone plugs in their headphones) which should be labeled as a power connector. The configuration as to which taps connect to which jack segment is up to you, however note the taps and their relation to the batteries so thet you can accurately construct an opposing adapter for balance charging. I use an IMAX B6 LiPo Charger to balance mine, which has the option of a 2S (2 series) charge port with pack positive, negative, and middle tap.

ONLY USE STEREO (3 segment) AUX CORDS TO CHARGE, MONO WILL SHORT YOUR BATTERIES!

An alternative to the above charging system would be constructing a sort of spring loaded housing for the batteries so as to easily remove, charge, and replace, but I took the solid-state approach.

Step 3: Final Thoughts

Picture of Final Thoughts

All in all, this project took the better half of an afternoon, and I was impressed and very happy with the results. If you guys decide to take this one up, please send me your variations and feedback on what worked for you. Happy Making!

EDIT: Finally melted the glue enough to insulate the wires up top, a nice corona is produced externally now, visible purple glow in the dark. Only zaps when something comes in proximity to the wires, cheers!

Comments

Yolo Pigeon (author)2017-12-06

you know thats its the amps not the volts that electrocute someone

About This Instructable

789views

17favorites

License:

Bio: This is a collection of projects I'd taken up during my childhood, and a few of my current endeavors! Happy making
More by Myers Technology:Overwatch Standard Issue Stun-Baton V3NXT robot hunter from Half life 2Civil Protection Unit (AKA Metrocop) V3
Add instructable to: