Introduction: ​P-10 Aqua - Deployable Bridge

Picture of ​P-10 Aqua - Deployable Bridge

Make sure to build sections on the extended abutment. Otherwise the build process does not mirror real life effectively.

Step 1:

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Remove one packaged up section from box.

Step 2:

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Undo packaged section and lay pieces out.

Step 3:

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Match the R raker for that section, with the R section of truss.

Step 4:

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Make sure it is attached to the cross brace (this should already be the case), and push the cross brace through the hole in the middle bottom of the truss.

Step 5:

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Grab a nut (one of the small ones) and make sure the hole in the top of the raker is roughly lined up with the small bolt in the top of the truss.

Step 6:

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Push the bolt through the hole in the raker and secure with the small nut you grabbed before.

Step 7:

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Slide the other truss section on to the cross brace, taking care that the bolts have their long ends point away from each other.

Step 8:

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Insert a wooden pin on the outside of the cross brace you just inserted to make sure it doesn't move.

Step 9:

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Step 10:

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Line up the L raker with the side of the cross brace and top of the truss section.

Step 11:

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Attach the bottom of the cross brace to the outermost hole on the cross brace and secure with a small nut and bolt.

Step 12:

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Line up the hole in the top of the raker with the bolt in the top of the truss section.

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Secure with a small nut.

Step 14:

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Step 15:

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Pick up a small cross brace.

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Push it through the holes at the end of the section and insert the pin into the end that is missing one. The other end might also be missing a pin so insert one there too if necessary.

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Step 18:

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Retrieve the section of flooring that was in your package.

Step 19:

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Step 20:

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Put flooring on to the section of bridge you have just completed.

Step 21:

Repeat steps 1 to 20, seven more times.

Step 22:

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Line up sections light blue and green (numbers 2 and 3) with light blue being the one with the prongs out the front. Make sure to remove the flooring as it gets in the way for the next few steps.

Step 23:

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Push the male end of one section into the female end of the other on both sides.

Step 24:

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Step 25:

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Pick up a big bolt and nut and push it through the hole in the middle of the male-female connection (it may take a bit of fiddling to get the holes to line up right so don't worry if it doesn't go in smoothly the first time)

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Insert bolt into the hole and secure with screw

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Make sure the head of the bolt is on the inside of the bridge.

Step 28:

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Tighten with screwdriver and 7mm wrench tool (It should say 7mm lightly on the side of the wrench tool).

Step 29:

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Repeat steps 23 - 28 for the bottom hole on that side.

Step 30:

Then, repeat steps 23 - 29 for the other side of the bridge as well.

Step 31:

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Two sections should now be connected.

Step 32:

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Place the flooring on the two sections you just created.

Step 33:

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Step 34:

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Slide out across gap until balanced.

Step 35:

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Connect white section of bridge (labelled 4) and the red section of bridge (labelled 5) the same way and place on flooring.

Step 36:

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Push out across the gap.

Step 37:

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Step 38:

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This red section you put on is the middle section. So put the piece of flooring with a hole in it on this section.

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Step 40:

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Connect the yellow section (labelled 6). Push out again.

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Connect the purple section (labelled 7). Put flooring on the next section.

Step 42:

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Push out across gap.

Step 43:

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Connect the last section, section blue (labelled 8). Put flooring on and push out across gap.

Step 44:

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Step 45:

Next, you need to take the Ziploc bags and small spades out of the box and start shoveling sand into them from the bucket provided. Then, place these bags (when zipped up) on the end section of the bridge. This will act as a counterweight to take some of the weight of the bridge and help you push it across. It will not take all the weight, however. So be careful.

Step 46:

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Finally, after the bridge has been fully assembled and pushed out, slide the long piece of dowel that is remaining in the box through the two brackets on the connection plate, making sure to pass the dowel underneath the floor.


zaporozhets (author)2016-05-29

Bailey Bridge model would probably be a better description of the project.

dontno (author)zaporozhets2016-05-31

I've help build many Baileys from '65 to '74. It's back breaking work. There is nothing light on that bridge. I was in a Bailey Bridge Co while in the US Army. The most important part of the build is establishing a center line, and laying out the rocking and plane rollers. After that it's all bull work. Been there done it, don't want the T-Shirt.

An excellent suggestion. It was heavily inspired by the Bailey bridge. I would've uploaded how to build the segments, but this was only meant to be a set of instructions for my student project.

Mjtrinihobby (author)2016-05-31


DIY Hacks and How Tos (author)2016-05-29

This has got to be the best student bridge project that I have ever seen. Very impressive.

Thank you so much! It took a lot of hard work and effort, but the finished product came out pretty well, I think. Sorry that it's only the instructions on how to assemble the bridge. I had to put them together for a demonstration and needed a way to make them clearly laid out and easy to follow.

bravoechonovember1 (author)2016-05-30

how did you make the actual pieces?

Using various tools and machinery. Took a while and a lot of effort but got it all done. Sorry about not posting the instructions on how to build it here. It was only meant to be instructions for the student project.

Annapolis Locksmith (author)2016-05-30

Excellent sense of humour.

boneheadhated (author)2016-05-30


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