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Step 2Disassembly
The power connector is located on an internal daughter board; we need to remove this to solder on the new connector. However, since this is a subnotebook, and made by Sony, the layout is tight and there are lots of tiny screws and ribbon cables. Reference the attached pictures for clarification of each step. Ground yourself during this process as well, you will be in close proximity to vital components.
1. Remove the power cord, battery, any cards in the PC or memory stick slots.
2. Remove the hinge caps. These are held on by 3 little tabs on their inside edge, use a flat implement to gently pry them off. Leave the caps attached to the screen in place, they don't have to be removed.
3. Remove the indicated screws from the bottom of the laptop. Some of them are of dissimilar lengths, so mark which screw goes where. I use write-on labeling tape from Fisher Scientific (ask your local chem lab for some), masking tape works as well. Note that the finish on the bottom of these older notebooks can be flaky, so the lower tack the better.
4. Flipping the notebook right side up again, remove the keyboard. It is held in by two little tabs in the front; use a jewelers screwdriver or other flat instrument to push the front edge of the keyboard back, and it will pop right up. It is connected to the motherboard by two ribbon cables. Disconnect these from the motherboard by pulling gently on them straight up. These cables are impossible to repair, so be careful.
4. The metal shielding over the PC slot just comes off, put it to the side.
5. Unscrew the screws holding the keyboard tray and front bezel in place. The indicator lights and buttons have a ribbon cable to the motherboard. Disconnect this prior to removing the tray.
6. The tray is held by a few tabs around its edge. The tray should be easy to gently pop off at this point.
7. Remove the side of the ribbon cable that plugs into the board on the right side of the hard drive. This is the board that we are trying to remove.
Note that the hard drive brackets screw through the board into the chassis. Also note the metal bar that runs along the top of the daughterboard. The bar is screwed into the chassis through the daughterboard as well, but it has an additional screw that holds it in place, which is located on the underside of the hinge cover. This screw attaches to a little metal bracket, which sits under the daughterboard, and it will move with the screen once unscrewed. Thus it is imperative that the hard drive screws be undone before doing anything with the bar, as there is potential that the board could be damaged when the screen shifts if it is still held firmly in place.
8. Remove the hard drive screws. You might have to undo both sides (daughter and motherboard) if you cant lift the side of the drive enough to sneak the daughterboard out. After that undo the screws holding the bar in place. At this point the screen will not be anchored and will flop in some direction, be aware of this. The daughter board is now only held by the connectors at the back. Separate them and remove the daughterboard from the laptop.
9. Put the laptop in a safe place, and proceed to the next step.
1. Remove the power cord, battery, any cards in the PC or memory stick slots.
2. Remove the hinge caps. These are held on by 3 little tabs on their inside edge, use a flat implement to gently pry them off. Leave the caps attached to the screen in place, they don't have to be removed.
3. Remove the indicated screws from the bottom of the laptop. Some of them are of dissimilar lengths, so mark which screw goes where. I use write-on labeling tape from Fisher Scientific (ask your local chem lab for some), masking tape works as well. Note that the finish on the bottom of these older notebooks can be flaky, so the lower tack the better.
4. Flipping the notebook right side up again, remove the keyboard. It is held in by two little tabs in the front; use a jewelers screwdriver or other flat instrument to push the front edge of the keyboard back, and it will pop right up. It is connected to the motherboard by two ribbon cables. Disconnect these from the motherboard by pulling gently on them straight up. These cables are impossible to repair, so be careful.
4. The metal shielding over the PC slot just comes off, put it to the side.
5. Unscrew the screws holding the keyboard tray and front bezel in place. The indicator lights and buttons have a ribbon cable to the motherboard. Disconnect this prior to removing the tray.
6. The tray is held by a few tabs around its edge. The tray should be easy to gently pop off at this point.
7. Remove the side of the ribbon cable that plugs into the board on the right side of the hard drive. This is the board that we are trying to remove.
Note that the hard drive brackets screw through the board into the chassis. Also note the metal bar that runs along the top of the daughterboard. The bar is screwed into the chassis through the daughterboard as well, but it has an additional screw that holds it in place, which is located on the underside of the hinge cover. This screw attaches to a little metal bracket, which sits under the daughterboard, and it will move with the screen once unscrewed. Thus it is imperative that the hard drive screws be undone before doing anything with the bar, as there is potential that the board could be damaged when the screen shifts if it is still held firmly in place.
8. Remove the hard drive screws. You might have to undo both sides (daughter and motherboard) if you cant lift the side of the drive enough to sneak the daughterboard out. After that undo the screws holding the bar in place. At this point the screen will not be anchored and will flop in some direction, be aware of this. The daughter board is now only held by the connectors at the back. Separate them and remove the daughterboard from the laptop.
9. Put the laptop in a safe place, and proceed to the next step.
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