I know there are plenty of DIYers out there who have been waiting to make a multi-drawer unit or pigeon hole cabinet. This 15-drawer cabinet was recently completed for a client and although it looks difficult, the hardest part is making up all the drawers.

The multi-drawer pigeon hole cabinet was designed by Shabby Chic for a client who wanted to add to a large entrance hall. What makes this unit so unique is the colour. Although this cabinet is larger than the norm, which is usually a 3 x 4 arrangement, you can easily modify the dimensions to make a smaller unit. - See more at: http://www.home-dzine.co.za/diy/diy-multi-drawer-...

A 2 of 384 x 2174 16mm MDF - horizontal drawer supports
B 4 of 384 x 984 16mm MDF - vertical drawer supports
C 2 of 384 x 1083 16mm MDF - sides
D 1 of 400 x 2238 16mm MDF - top
E 1 of 384 x 2174 16mm MDF - bottom
F1 2 of 100 x 384 16mm MDF - base sides
1 1000 2250 3mm white Masonite - backing board
180- and 240-grit sanding pads
Pack 4 x 30mm smooth shank screws
Pack 4 x 40mm smooth shank screws
Wood filler
Panel pins
Drill/Driver + assorted bits
Countersink bit
Jigsaw and clean cut blade
Orbital sander
2 trestles or workbenches
Tape measure, steel rule and pencil
Calculator - if you're blonde like me!

Why no wood glue? It isn't always necessary to use wood glue, especially when using smooth shank screws. These screws are designed to pull the boards together tightly.

Step 1:

The first step in this project is to cut and assemble the frame for the drawers.
This is one of those projects where you start in the middle and work your way towards the outside. In this way it's easy to attach the frame for the drawers to the sides, top and bottom for a sturdy arrange-ment. Use a steel rule (or tape measure) and pencil to mark the horizontal and vertical sections as follows:

A. Horizontal uprights
1. Draw a line horizontally down the centre at 192mm, so that you have two half sections, each 192mm wide. 2. Working from one end, measure and mark at 422, 438, 860, 876, 1298, 1314, 1736, 1752mm from the edge to the centre mark.
<p>Excellent project! </p><p>I have been looking at this one for a while as a starting off point to building an entertainment center for my man cave. I learned alot from the instructable &amp; while I was putting things down on paper, an important question came to mind.</p><p>How much does this thing weigh? </p><p>My quick internet research has suggested that each full sheet of MDF weights around 90lbs and for this project I would need approximately 2.5 sheets. That's one beefy piece of furniture!</p>
It does weigh quite a bit, but it's not so bad to move if all the drawers are removed.
Thanks for posting this, that is a beautiful cabinet! <br> <br>How did you get the nice square ends on the slots for the horizontal and vertical uprights? A chisel?
I do use a lot of antique wax on furniture that I make, and I'm sure that would help with any sticking issues.
No chisels used! The horizontal and vertical uprights are slotted together as per the instructions.
&quot;How did you get the nice square ends on the slots for the horizontal and vertical uprights? A chisel?&quot; <br> <br>&quot;No chisels used! The horizontal and vertical uprights are slotted together as per the instructions.&quot; <br> <br>No chisels used does not answer the question. Again how did you get the nice square ends on the slots? <br> <br>Great project. <br> <br>You are not using drawer slide hardware, why not? <br>Will the drawers last? <br>A much cheaper method but I wonder about the quality without hardware. <br> <br>Thanks, <br>Ralph
When I cut the slots, I move back up the cut and then cut a diagonal - which leaves a small triangle. I remove this with the jigsaw blade. <br> <br>I didn't want drawer runners. The project is designed to be Shabby Chic and drawer runners would spoil the feel. Assemble the drawers as explained and they will last a long time.
Thanks for the clarification. <br>You definitely have more skills than me because I've never been able make as nice a cut with a jigsaw. I was hoping there was trick to it :-).
Thanks dezine, great looking project. <br> <br>Most dressers do not use runners and work fine when new but after years they tend to bind, or at least one of the drawers will bind. Some say to use wax but that has to be maintained year after year. <br> <br>I definitely love the look of your project, Thank You again!! <br>Ralph
Most dressers do not have runners like ralphxyz said.<br><br>The dressers I've had since I was 10, are solid wood, the drawers have larger dimensions than these &amp; now over 30 yrs old don't have runners &amp; no issues with sticking. There are runners on the dovetail cut drawers on my 6 yr old $1500 solid wood dresser. I Love it!<br><br>Since these are smaller drawers I didn't think sticking would be a problem. <br><br>I thought any sticking was due to either excessive weight put in the drawers, the wood expanding because humidity, manufacturing of the product &amp; drawers not aligned correctly, mishandling or not taking proper care of it or could it be any of the above?<br><br>Would wax work on untreated or primed, painted MDF? That is what I use my on solid wood furniture occasionally.
What is the total price for the materials?
That would depend on what country you are in and where you buy from.
This is the second instructable today with MDF. In my experience MDF is about the worst wood product one can use. No matter what type screw you use, they just don't hold in MDF. There is no good fastener for this material. The only time I would use MDF is when weight is not a problem, and when the MDF is fully sandwiched between other materials.
I love the color!
Awesome! Thank you for sharing this project on Instructables.

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