After looking around quite a bit, here is a PVC Kayak Cart I made from various different designs I found online to suit my needs. Thanks to all who helped (whether you realized it or not) .
Step 1: Parts List.
4 – 90-degree elbow fittings.
2 – 45-degree elbow fittings.
6 – T fittings (4 are optional).
8 – 2” pieces PVC “pipe” spacers (for front & back).
4 – 6” pieces PVC pipe (for sides).
2 – 13” pieces PVC insulating foam for PVC, I used 1” for 1 ¼” pipe not ¾” as it fits WAY better over fittings.
8 – zip ties, non-locking.
3 – T fittings
1 – 90-degree elbow fitting (optional for stand).
2 – closed end caps (I used hex sided).
2 – 4 ½” PVC pipe (Horizontal rails).
3 – 4” PVC pipe (Vertical pieces), (1 optional for stand).
2 – Wheels from a golf bag cart.
4 – Large washers big enough to fit over your axle of choice.
2 – Cotter pins.
1 – 21 ¼” Hollow Axle. Outside measured ½” which is the diameter needed for the wheels.
- Hacksaw and Miter Box
- Rubber Mallet
- Medium sized Visegrips
- Bench Vise (for cutting and drilling axle)
- Electric drill
Step 2: Step 1: Bottom Assembly.
- Cut all pieces of pvc pipe to proper lengths (mostly 2” & 4”) & separate into their groups, i.e. Top, Bottom.
- Layout & check all fittings inside for small pieces of pvc or unwanted objects which can lodge themselves inside. (Sounds weird but it has happened to me). Now that you have your pieces together use the photos as a guide, and you will be ok. I found it easier to build the Bottom then the Top before joining the two.
Start with the centre T elbow fitting, add the 2 – 4 ½” pipes out from each end then add the other 2 T’s and 4” pipes going up from them, and finally the end caps on the T’s. And last if you want, add the 4” pipe with a 90-degree fitting as a footing to sit it up. Use the Mallet or hammer to snug everything up.
Step 3: Step 2: Top Assembly and Joining Bottom & Top Halves.
For the ends put together in this order,
90 degree elbow, 2” spacer, T fitting, 2” spacer, 45 degree elbow, 2” spacer, T fitting, 2” spacer, 90 degree elbow. The 2 V shaped ends when completed should be mirror images of each other. Add the 2 sides and then align according to the photos.
Join Top with Bottom.
If you have cut everything right then it will fit together correctly (believe me I was not sure quite a few times), so if it looks odd or bent out of shape keep tweaking the joints.
Insert the 2 upward pointed pipes from the Bottom into the 2 downward facing T fittings from the Top.
I found the 2 - 45 degree elbows on the Top cause the most misalignment when putting the top & bottom together.
Step 4: Step 3: Wheels & Axle.
The axle was easy once I realized I could just drill a suitable hole in each end cap for the axle to go through. I then just measured the length I thought would work with some wiggle room, then drilled a couple of holes in each end for cotter pins and used a couple medium size washers for some spacers/protection.
Step 5: Finishing Up.
Also I put on a couple of pieces of PVC insulation foam with zip ties on the sides to protect my kayak. I recommend using removable zip ties for when you want to replace your foam or anything else.
I used hex shaped end caps so I could find the centre much more accurately, just draw a line across the cap from each point to the opposite side 2 or 3 lines will give the dead centre to drill your axle hole.
And finally in the end I think I actually spent about $35-40 in parts. I have not glued or screwed mine yet and from what I can tell I probably will not need to. And just for the fun of it I stood on the cart without the wheels and there was no problem ( I am around 215 lbs). Enjoy.
Special thanks to Sprocket.