After looking around quite a bit, here is a PVC Kayak Cart I made from various different designs I found online to suit my needs. Thanks to all who helped (whether you realized it or not) .

Step 1: Parts List.

Parts List (all ¾” PVC unless noted):

Top Half:
4 – 90-degree elbow fittings.
2 – 45-degree elbow fittings.
6 – T fittings (4 are optional).
8 – 2” pieces PVC “pipe” spacers (for front & back).
4 – 6” pieces PVC pipe (for sides).
2 – 13” pieces PVC insulating foam for PVC, I used 1” for 1 ¼” pipe not ¾” as it fits WAY better over fittings.
8 – zip ties, non-locking.

Bottom Half:
3 – T fittings
1 – 90-degree elbow fitting (optional for stand).
2 – closed end caps (I used hex sided).
2 – 4 ½” PVC pipe (Horizontal rails).
3 – 4” PVC pipe (Vertical pieces), (1 optional for stand).

2 – Wheels from a golf bag cart.
4 – Large washers big enough to fit over your axle of choice.
2 – Cotter pins.
1 – 21 ¼” Hollow Axle. Outside measured ½” which is the diameter needed for the wheels.

Tools used:
- Hacksaw and Miter Box
- Rubber Mallet
- Medium sized Visegrips
- Bench Vise (for cutting and drilling axle)
- Electric drill
<p>This is a great idea. I just bought a used cart for mine but later this year I'm going to use this concept to build a spare. The only change I'll try for is to build it to break down enough to carry on or in my kayak. My current one has removable tires and folds up. I'm sure this one can be built to break into two or three storable parts, and quick release clips for the tires. Thanks much for putting this up!</p>
I designed this with a breakdown in mind. Should not be a problem. I can take mine apart in minutes, maybe a bit more to reassemble. <br>No glue and no screws.
<p>Looks complecated!!!</p>
Don't let the looks or instructions fool you, it's not complicated in any way. <br>I promise.
<p>Looks great, hope it works for you as well as mine has worked for me.</p>
Works like a charm! I should get many years a uses out of it. Thanks again for the instructions.
<p>Nice build.</p><p>If it weren't for the title, going by the picture of the dog next to the cart, I would have guessed it was a doggie wheelchair. Perhaps it would be helpful to show it in use with a kayak on it in the first picture.</p>
<p>Na Sprocket is more than able to get around even with a sore ankle, I will consider the suggestion... though I don't really see the need. The title says it all.</p>
<p>Yep. The title says it all, but some people don't read at first. They may look at the picture and say, oh that's for such and such. Then they pick up the reading glasses, read the title and realize that it's for something else.</p>
<p>Thank you for the inspiration. I have a 12' sailboat I built from plywood, and it's a bit heavier than a kayak. It's around 130 pounds, with the rudder, daggerboard, sail and rig. I wanted something a bit bigger and beefier, so I built your cart out of 1 1/4&quot; PVC, but reinforced the axle, uprights and longitudinal members with 1&quot; PVC pipe slipped inside the bigger tubes. </p><p>I glued all the joints on the top, but left the axle unglued, in case I have to take it apart for some reason. The axle is a 3 foot long 5/8&quot; threaded rod. The wheels are from Harbor Freight. I plan to use a pool noodle for padding, although I know I probably won't be able to find a noodle with a 1 1/4&quot; inner diameter, but that's OK. You don't really have to pad the bottom of the rails, anyway.</p><p>I'll let you know how it performs when I get the padding on.</p>
​Nicely done. It's cool to see people modify to fit their needs. I was originally going to use pneumatic tires from a hand cart but found the golf cart in a second hand store for dirt cheap so I went with it.
great idea. tried to use this for my canoe but it wasn't strong enough
barretta1,<br>That's Interesting, I have used the cart on my single wood kayak which is 45lbs and my sisters 100lb Libra XT Double. When I was making the cart I tried standing on it many times to see how strong it was (I'm 220lbs). All I can suggest is maybe glue the pvc joints or if it's the wheels/axle (I also felt the wheels were the weak spot) upgrade to some pnuematic tires. <br>
Excellent job! Looks just like the one sitting somewhere in my garage. Let me add a couple of recommendations: <br>1) PVC is strong, the glue joints aren't. Drill a small pilot hole and run a small screw to each joint, two are better. <br>2) Add a nylon web strap, with a snap buckle, to tie down the boat. <br>Finally, I used the handle on the front of my boat to pull the rig. <br> <br>Happy paddling!
Thanks gnach for the tip, <br>I have been pondering &quot;glue vs screws&quot; for awhile . For the moment friction seems to be more than enough. <br>As for the strap, nothing beats nylon (imho) . <br>Now off to build a bike trailer for those longer trips. 8D
Wow! I don't know where gnach got the idea that PVC glue joints aren't strong but he couldn't be more wrong. If you don't believe me, try to pull one apart. If properly prepped, they are just like any other glue joints, actually stronger than the materials being bonded. Not only do you NOT need the screws, the pilot holes will give you a weak point that can cause the PVC to crack and fail, especially being used in a vibrating application like this.
That was my general feeling towards glue. I really think prepping is the key as is using the right glue (speaking from experience on that one).

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