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Picture of POW-Rduino testing tool
function-2.bmp

PURPOSE:

Create a safe tool for the Arduino that will serve as a high voltage testing tool.
 
PRIORITIES:
1.  Safety for anyone wanting to re-create this project
2.  Full set of instructions so the project can be re-created by anyone following the instructable.
3.  A tool that allows maximum flexibility and configured to the users' needs safely.
4.  Components of the tool can easily be replaced, should failure in components occur.


PROJECT FUNCTIONALITY:
2 outlets that operate independent of each other

Each outlet can be configured as NO (normally open) or NC (normally closed) depending on need.
 
Tool can be used to test code by the Arduino without having to use high voltage connections

STATES -
NC (normally closed) outlets controlled with independent switches and can only be "HOT" when Arduino PIN is "HIGH"

NO (normally open) outlets controlled with independent switches in this mode the Arduino will stop power to the outlets when the Arduino PINS go "HIGH".  You will need to play with this in order to understand it's function.

 
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Step 1: SAFETY - working with high voltage (110 volts)

Picture of SAFETY  - working with high voltage (110 volts)
CORRECT PRECAUTIONS are needed as you are working with electrical lines rated at 110 volts.  This level of voltage can harm you and is possible to cause death in some cases.  You should always seek help from a certified electrician should you choose to re-create this project.  

ADDED SAFETY STEPS:
Never work with the relay, outlet or power cord if connected to a live electircal power source.
Enclose all wires before any testing of the project.
If in question as to safety  --   JUST UNPLUG IT.
This tool can only handle approximately 1000W (power=current X voltage) per outlet to be safe.
This project can be done safely if you are careful and understand the risk involed.
Only plug this tool into a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) outlet, this one precaution could save your life.




ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:

This project is building on work done by Luke Liseman and his "Garduino" design
http://www.instructables.com/id/Garduino_Gardening_Arduino/

 

Sparkfun has a guide that should be reviewed also.
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/tutorial_info.php?tutorials_id=119


Step 2: PROJECT MATERIALS

Picture of PROJECT MATERIALS

A -- White OUTLET box
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=10029-223-E987N-CAR&lpage=none

B -- 1/2" Strain Relief Cord Connector - Lowes 6141127693 part number

C -- White Closure Plugs  (paint grey ones if needed)
        2 - 1/2 inch
        4 - 3/4 inch

D -- White Waterproof blank outlet cover - Lowes 70737 part number

E -- 3 prong power cord

F -- Foam blank to create hardware template

G -- RED and BLACK (20AWG) wire - 15 inches each
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049743

H -- BLACK AND WHITE - Primary Wire, 18 Gauge, 600V
        On all high voltage conections only use 600V wire -  will need 12 inches of each
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/113512/377%20710/0/wire/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/10/0?N=377710&Ne=0&Ntt=wire&Ntk=PrimarySearch&Ntx=modematchallpartial&Nao=10&Ns=0&keyword=wire&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5002&subdeptNum=9&classNum=121

I-- air pump to test POW-Rduino or any equipment you want to use.

J -- Fully Insulated Mini 1-1/4" Alligator Clips - for testing conections
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062236

K -- Component PC Board - 750 solder-ringed holes
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103798

L --  Heat-shrink Tubing
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062662

M -- Diodes 1N4004  - Use 2 of these
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=1537918&

N -- OMRON ELECTRONICS - RELAY,G5LE-1 DC5 - you need 2 of these
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?jameco_page=42&langId=-1&productId=187151&catalogId=10001&freeText=omron+g5le-1&storeId=10001&search_type=all&ddkey=http:StoreCatalogDrillDownView

O -- Decorator Grounding Receptacle - Lowes 279490 part number

P -- Safety Binding Posts - will need 2 RED and 1 BLACK
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103639

Q -- Green LED with Holder
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062569

R -- SPST Lighted Rocker Switch - will use 2 of these
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062522

S -- Blank Outlet Cover - for practice to drill holes in advance of actual drilling of holes.

T -- Arduino and battery supply

U -- Bread Board for sensor input circuit


PARTS NOT VIEWED IN PICTURE:
2-Position PC board terminals
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102861

10mm Insulated Standoffs
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102860

1/4OD X 1/8ID X 1/4 Tubing

Connector Nut -  Lowes 000000 part number


Step 3: Power Cord

Picture of Power Cord
pc-step3-2.bmp
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STEP 3.1:
Start with power cord you obtained.

STEP 3.2:
Strip power cord outer covering 4" -- cut away all materials leaving only the BLACK-WHITE-GREEN wires.

STEP 3.3:
Cut individual wires as follows
Black 4"
White 3.5"
Green 3"

STEP 3.4:
Strip wire ends as follows
Black .25"
White .5"
Green .5"

STEP 3.5:
Solder wire ends

STEP 3.6:
When completed the soldered striped ends should look like picture 3.6.  Yours will be different as your ends are different.

Step 4: Mount PCB in outlet box


MATERIALS NEEDED:

1 - White OUTLET box
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=10029-223-E987N-CAR&lpage=none

1 - K -- Component PC Board - 750 solder-ringed holes
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103798

1- 7/64 drill bit

1 - 4 X 1/2 Pan Head screw


DETERMINE TOP AND BOTTOM SIDES OF PCB:
Top side of the PCB will be holes with broken lines connecting each hole (printing will be white)
Bottom side of the PCB will have holes with copper color squares around them (printing will be copper color)

MARK TOP OF OUTLET BOX:
Make a "T" on the center 1/2 inch inlet rise.
Make a "T" on the inside of the cover plate to match the other "T" just made. 
It will be hard to keep track of the cover plate alignment with the outlet box in future steps if this is not done now,


LOCATE PCB IN BOX:
Position top of box away from you. (box marked with "T" to show outlet box top).
Place PCB on center raised circle, slide PCB tight to top and right side (numbers will be near the "T" and Alpha letters will be on right side)

MARK MOUNTING HOLE:
At M-18 on the PCB make a mark with a pencil.
This mark will be near center point on 1/2 inlet rise the PCB is sitting on.

DRILL HOLE IN BOX:
Remove the PCB and you will see your mark for the mounting hole.
Drill a 7/64" hole at the mark on the 1/2" inlet rise support in the box.

MAKE MOUNTING HOLE ON PCB:
Find whole M-18 on PCB.
Drill 7/64" hole at M-18 for mounting screw.

INSERT MOUNTING SCREW:
Screw in the 4 X 1/2 Pan Head Screw in to the PCB.
The PCB is now ready for future steps in this construction
.





Step 5: Outlet Box Assembly


MATERIALS NEEDED:

1 -- White OUTLET box
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=10029-223-E987N-CAR&lpage=none

1 -- 1/2" Strain Relief Cord Connector - Lowes 6141127693 part number

White Closure Plugs  (paint grey ones if needed)
 2 - 1/2 inch 
 4 - 3/4 inch

Power cord constructed in Step 3

5/8" drill bit


DRILL CORD ENTRY HOLE:
Using the 5/8" drill bit - drill hole in the Box bottom 1/2" inlet plastic.


STRAIN RELIEF CORD CONNECTOR (SRCC):
Locate your strain relief cord connector

BREAK APART THE STRAIN RELIEF CORD CONNECTOR (SRCC):
The SRCC unit will break out into 3 different parts.  Make sure to keep track of the correct end on the center part of the unit.

ATTACH SRCC BASE PART:
Take the SRCC base part (one with the male threads on it) and screw the more course threads into the 1/2" inlet  (the one with the see through hole).  It was created at the start of this step. 

POWER CORD WITH SRCC PARTS:
Using the power cord created in STEP 3 run the stripped 3 wire end of the power cord through nut part of the SRCC.  Continue by running the stripped 3 wire end through the nylon water proof bushing (big end on the plug side of the cord).


POWER CORD GOES INTO BOX BASE:
Feed the stripped 3 wire end through the SRCC base part and into the inside of the box bottom.  Pull about 1/4" of power cord passed the end of the SRCC base inside the box.

TIGHTEN SRCC NUT:
Hold the 3 stripped wire end in place and tighten the SRCC nut to the threaded male base connector attached to the base of the outlet box.

CLOSURE PLUGS TO COMPLETE STEP:
Use closure plugs to cap all unused inlet holes on the box. 
Should be as follows:
1 - 1/2" on back of box
1 - 1/2" top of box
2 - 3/4" top of box
2 - 3/4" bottom of box






 


Step 6: Cover Plate - Template design and construction

Picture of Cover Plate - Template design and construction
cover-2.bmp
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MATERIALS NEEDED:


1 -- White Waterproof blank outlet cover - Lowes 70737 part number

2 -- Safety Binding Posts - RED END

1 -- Safety Binding Posts - BLACK END

2 -- Green LED with Holder

2 -- SPST Lighted Rocker Switch

1 --  Decorator Grounding Receptacle - Lowes 279490 part number

1 -- Jig saw blade - 30026 - Vermont American - Plastic & Light Metal

Drill bits 
3/4" - 5/16" - 1/4"

Dremel and grinding tool to clean up drilled holes and cuts in plate cover



BLANK COVER PLATE:
Locate your blank cover plate to start this STEP


DETERMINE RIGHT ORIENTATION OF COVER:
Make sure you have the correct orientation of the cover.  TOP end away from you when you view it flat on a table.

FACE PLATE TEMPLATE:
Print out the PDF file for all instructions on cuts and holes.  

LAYOUT TEMPLATE ON COVER PLATE:
Layout template on the cover plate.  Once complete you will have no problem making the right cut and drill the correct hole in the right locations.

DRILL HOLES AND MAKE CUTS:
Use the center points of the layout to drill out the holes.  Make one hole in the outlet space and use a jig saw to make the cuts.

CHECK HARDWARE FOR CORRECT FIT:
Put in all the hardware to check fit.  You may need to clean up the cuts in order to get the hardware to fit in the cuts you made.  If you are really good, you will not need any clean up of your cuts and drilled holes.

Decorator Grounding Receptacle - Left rectangle
SPST Lighted Rocker Switch - 3/4" holes
Safety Binding Posts - RED END - outside 5/16" holes
Safety Binding Posts - BLACK END - middle 5/16" hole 
Green LED with Holder - two 1/4" holes above and below the Safety Binding Posts


face-plate temp001.pdf(609x791) 102 KB

Step 7: Receptacle (outlet) - placement in box

Picture of Receptacle (outlet) - placement in box
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MATERIALS NEEDED:


1 - Decorator Grounding Receptacle - Lowes 279490 part number

OUTLET box  from STEP 5: 

1 --  5" - WHITE - Primary Wire, 18 Gauge, 600V - (stripped on each end 1/2" & tinned)

Common screw driver 

Pair of pliers


KNOW YOUR RECEPTACLE (outlet):
Understand your receptacle (outlet).  Looking at your outlet face up the ground hole needs to be at the bottom as you are looking at it.  On the right side will be the longer slots of each outlet (COMM - side - white wires go on this side).  On the left will be the shorter slots of each outlet (HOT - side - black wires go on this side)


REMOVE EARS OF THE RECEPTACLE (outlet):
Using pliers remove the ears from the outlet.  Ears are located on the metal parts conected to each end of the outlet.  This is where the mounting screws are located.  You will only need the center part of these brackets for this project.  There is a cut line on each ear.  Grab the ear with the pliers at the cut line.  Move the ear up and down with a tight grip by the pliers.  The ear will break off. 


REMOVE "HOT" SIDE BRIDGE CONECTOR:
Looking at the HOT side of the OUTLET you will see two screws attached to copper color plates.  The plates below each screw are connected by a bridge connector. Using pliers - be careful to grab the center of the bridge and move up and down until it breaks off.  The bridge is hard to grab so use care here.  Once you have it move it up and down until it snaps.  This step allows you to control each outlet independently.


CONNECT - 5" WHITE - PRIMARY WIRE:
(1/2" stripped on each end) 
With pliers make a hook with one of the strpped ends.  Looking at the COMM side of the OUTLET use the screw on the left (outlet-1 screw) un-screw just enough to work the hooked wire around the back side of the screw.  Make sure the open hook part of the wire ends on the right side of the screw.

CONNECT POWER CORD TO OUTLET:
WHITE power cord wire -
Make a hook shape at the stripped end. Looking at the COMM side of the OUTLET use the screw on the right (outlet 2 screw) un-screw just enough to work the hooked wire around the back side of the screw.  Make sure the open hook part of the wire ends on the right side of the screw.

GREEN power cord wire -
Make a hook shape at the stripped end. Looking at the COMM side of the OUTLET use the screw on the far right (outlet  ground screw) un-screw just enough to work the hooked wire around the back side of the screw.  Make sure the open hook part of the wire ends on the right side of the screw.

MOUNT OUTLET IN BOX:
Insert connected OUTLET into OUTLET BOX with the COMM slots on the the left side of box.  Use the second set of screw holes that line up with the bracket mounting holes on the OUTLET.  Use the mounting screws that came with the OUTLET and insert into the mounting holes of the box.  Screw the mounting screws in only a short way.  You will need some room in the future to add other items for the project and to be able to connect wires on the PCB. Bend the OUTLET-1 wire down to the bottom of the OUTLET and route around bottom part and out to open space in middle of the box.


       

Step 8: WIRE-UP THE HARDWARE

Picture of WIRE-UP THE HARDWARE
hardwar-rik.bmp
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led.bmp
INSTALL VIEW.bmp
MATERIALS NEEDED:

1 -- White Waterproof blank outlet cover - completed in STEP 6

2 -- Safety Binding Posts - RED END

1 -- Safety Binding Posts - BLACK END

2 -- Green LED with Holder

2 -- SPST Lighted Rocker Switch

2 --  4.5" - WHITE - Primary Wire, 18 Gauge, 600V - Sstripped 1/2" on each end & tinned

2 --  5" - BLACK - Primary Wire, 18 Gauge, 600V - Stripped 1/8" & 1/2" on ends & tinned

2 --  5" - BLACK - Primary Wire, 18 Gauge, 600V - Stripped 1/2" on each end & tinned

2 -- 4" - RED  (20AWG) wire - Stripped 1/8" & 1/2" on ends & tinned

2 -- 4" - BLACK  (20AWG) wire - Stripped 1/8" & 1/2" on ends & tinned

Heat-shrink Tubing

 
SAFETY BINDING POST - BLACK END
This will be the ground connection for the Arduino.  2 Black (20AWG) wires striped 1/8" & 1/2" on the ends.  Using the 1/2" ends connect to the metal pin opposite the "BLACK" top.  Solder the wires to the pin.  Once secure, add the heat-shrink tubing to the pin end.  DO NOT GO ABOVE THE SMOOTH ROUND END.  If you heat-shrink the threads on the binding post you will not be able to tighten the mounting nut in the last task of this step.


SAFETY BINDING POST - RED END - (make 2 of these)
These will be the  SENSOR OUTPUT connections for the Arduino.  2 RED (20AWG) wires striped 1/8" & 1/2" on the ends.  Using the 1/2" ends connect to the metal pin opposite the "RED" top.  Solder the wires to the pins.  Once secure, add the heat-shrink tubing to the pin ends.  DO NOT GO ABOVE THE SMOOTH ROUND END.  If you heat-shrink the threads on the binding posts you will not be able to tighten the mounting nut in the last task of this step.


SPST LIGHTED ROCKER SWITCHS - (make 2 of these)
These switches will be connected to high voltage, so you need to use the 18 gauge, 600V wire for this task.  It is important to connect the WHITE wire only to the COPPER prong on the switch. SAFETY IS IMPORTANT HERE.  Connect the 5" - BLACK - Primary Wire, 18 Gauge, 600V - Stripped 1/8" & 1/2" on ends & tinned to the center prong.  Connect using the 1/2" wire end.  The last connection will be with the 5" - BLACK - Primary Wire, 18 Gauge, and 600V - Stripped 1/2" on each end & tinned. It will not matter which end gets connected as both are 1/2" long.  Once all connections are soldiered and secure, add the heat-shrink tubing to the connection at the switch base.

Green LED with Holder:

 Nothing needs to be done with these LED's.  They come as a package with resistors attached.  All you will do is install these into the cover plate and connect up the wires in the last STEPS of this instructable.

INSTALL THE HARDWARE:
Green LED with Holder - install into the 1/4" holes

SPST Lighted Rocker Switches - install into the 3/4" holes.  Make sure WHITE wire is on left side as you look at the plate.

SAFETY BINDING POST - BLACK END - install into the 5/16" center hole.

SAFETY BINDING POST - RED ENDS - install into the last 5/16" holes on the plate.



 
 

 

Step 9: RELAY MOUNTING - on PCB

MATERIALS NEEDED:

1 -- PCB - worked on in STEP 4

2 -- OMRON ELECTRONICS - RELAY,G5LE-1 DC5

1 -- 3/64" drill bit

RELAY MOUNTING:
RELAYS need to be mounted on to the PCB.  In order to keep both RELAY PIN-1 (P1) close together you have to reverse RELAY-2 (R2) it controls OUTLET-2 (O2).  When done correctly both PIN-1 (P1) of the RELAYS will be facing each other.

PROBLEM:
RELAYS will not go into the holes on the PCB as configured.

FIX THE PROBLEM:
RELAY-1 (R1) - needs to be positioned as follows:
PIN-1 (P1) - between  I16 / I17 and J16 / J17 holes
PIN-2 (P2) - in hole I14
PIN-3 (P3) - in hole D14
PIN-4 (P4) - in hole D19
PIN-5 (P5) - in hole I19

RELAY-2 (R2) - needs to be positioned as follows:
PIN-1 (P1) - between  P16 / P17 and Q16 / Q17 holes
PIN-2 (P2) - in hole Q19
PIN-3 (P3) - in hole V19
PIN-4 (P4) - in hole V14
PIN-5 (P5) - in hole Q14

Using the top side of the PCB make a square marking between holes I16 / I17 & J16 / J17 holes.  Make the same type of mark at P16 / P17 & Q16 / Q17 holes.

In the center of the square marking formed by the holes drill a 3/64" hole in each square marking.

PIN-1 (P1) on each RELAY will now have a hole to rest in.

PROBLEM FIXED:
You can now insert the RELAYS in to the correct holes and the RELAYS will sit flat on the PCB.

RELAY-1 (R1) MOUNTED:
insert RELAY-1 (R1) into the following holes
PIN-1 (P1) - between  I16 / I17 and J16 / J17 holes
PIN-2 (P2) - in hole I14
PIN-3 (P3) - in hole D14
PIN-4 (P4) - in hole D19
PIN-5 (P5) - in hole I19

RELAY-2 (R2) MOUNTED:
PIN-1 (P1) - between  P16 / P17 and Q16 / Q17 holes
PIN-2 (P2) - in hole Q19
PIN-3 (P3) - in hole V19
PIN-4 (P4) - in hole V14
PIN-5 (P5) - in hole Q14

RELAY-2 (R2) will be reversed from REALY-1 (R1) and PIN-1 (P1) of each RELAY will face each other.

KNOW YOUR RELAY PINS:
Now that the RELAYS are in place you need to know PIN locations on the back side of the PCB.



 


Step 10: COMPONENTS - install all components

Picture of COMPONENTS - install all components
T5-T2.bmp
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DONE.bmp
MATERIALS NEEDED:

1 -- PCB - worked on in STEP 9

2 -- Diodes 1N4004 


9 -- 2-Position PC board terminals


INSTALL DIODES:
Diodes are very important in this project.  The theory behind thier function can be explored at:
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/tutorial_info.php?tutorials_id=119
You must install them in the correct position or problems could surface during long term use of this tool.

Diode-1 (D1) needs to be inserted at these holes on the PCB:
Black End - inserted into hole location B11
Silver End - inserted into hole location K11

Diode-2 (D2) needs to be inserted at these holes on the PCB:
Black End - inserted into hole location P11
Silver End - inserted into hole location X11


INSTALL TERMINAL BLOCKS FOR PIN-5 (P5) & PIN-2 (P2):
Using 4 -- 2-Position PC Board Terminals (T) insert as follows:

TERMINAL-5 (T5)
RELAY-1 (R1) - at hole locations J9 / L9
RELAY-2 (R2) - at hole locations O9 / Q9

TERMINAL-2 (T2)
RELAY-1 (R1) - TERMINAL-2 (T2) at hole locations B9 / D9
RELAY-2 (R2) - TERMINAL-2 (T2) at hole locations V9 / X9


INSTALL TERMINAL BLOCKS FOR PIN-5 (P5) & PIN-2 (P2):

Using 5 -- 2-Position PC Board Terminals (T) insert follows:

TERMINAL-1 (T1)
RELAY-1 (R1)  & RELAY-2 (R2) - at hole locations L30 / N30

TERMINAL-4 (T4)
RELAY-1 (R1) - at hole locations F28 / H28
RELAY-2 (R2) - at hole locations R28 / T28

TERMINAL-3 (T3)
RELAY-1 (R1) - at hole locations A28 / C28
RELAY-2 (R2) - at hole locations W28 / Y28

Step 11: SOLDER COMPONENTS

MATERIALS NEEDED:

1 -- PCB - worked on in STEP 10

POSITION THE PCB CORRECTLY:
You will need to flip your PCB over in order to solder the connections between all the components.  It is important that you know which PIN and which component you are working with.  BE VERY CAREFUL HERE.  Connecting it incorrectly can result in problems and short your PCB and cause your GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) to pop.  In this case you will need to reset it.

SOLDER PIN-1 (P1) TO TERMINAL (T1):
Solder PIN-1 (P1) from both RELAY-1 (R1) and RELAY-2 (R2) to TERMINAL-1 (T1)
Use the following hole locations for the solder bead.

PIN-1(P1) / RELAY-1 (R1):
Start at PIN-1 (P1) holes I16/I17
Solder from I16/I17 upto G17
Solder over from G17 to G23
Solder down from G23 to L23
Solder over from L23 to L30

PIN-1 (P1) / RELAY-2 (R2):
Start at PIN-1 (P1) holes P16/P17
Solder from P16/P17 upto O17
Solder over from O17 to O24
Solder up from O24 to N24
Solder over from N24 to N30

Solder for TERMINAL-1 (T1) holes L30 to N30

DIODE CONNECTIONS:
DIODE wire will be pulled through holes when connecting with TERMINAL-5 (T5) 7 TERMINAL-2 (T2) for both RELAY-1 (R1) & RELAY-2 (R2).  Each time this happens handle it the same way.  Solder around the hole the wire comes out with the solder bead.  Once the connection is made snip the extra DIODE wire off.  BE CAREFUL - hold on to it or it will fly out at you!!!


SOLDER PIN-5 (P5) - RELAY-1 (R1):
Diode (D1-R1) will have a wire pulled through at hole K11.  Solder through it with the solder bead and at end snip off leftover wire as close to the solder bead as you can.
Use the following hole locations for the solder bead.

PIN-5 (P5) / RELAY-1 (R1) to TERMINAL-5 (T5) / RELAY-1 (R1):
Start at PIN-5 (P5) on RELAY-1 (R1) hole I19
Solder down from I19 to K19
Solder across to the left to K9
Solder for TERMINAL-5 (T5) holes J9 to L9



SOLDER PIN-5 (P5) - RELAY-2 (R2):
Diode (D2-R2) will have a wire pulled through at hole P11.  Solder through it with the solder bead and at end snip off left over wire as close to the solder bead as you can.
Use the following hole locations for the solder bead.

PIN-5 (P5) / RELAY-2 (R2) to TERMINAL-5 (T5) / RELAY-2 (R2):
Start at PIN-5 (P5) on RELAY-2 (R2) hole Q14
Solder down from I19 to K19
Solder across to the left to K9

Solder for TERMINAL-5 (T5) holes O9 to Q9


SOLDER PIN-2 (P2) - RELAY-1 (R1):
Diode (D1-R1) will have a wire pulled through at hole B11.  Solder through it with the solder bead and at end snip off left over wire as close to the solder bead as you can.
Use the following hole locations for the solder bead.

PIN-2 (P2) / RELAY-1 (R1) to TERMINAL-2 (T2) / RELAY-1 (R1):
Start at PIN-2 (P2) on RELAY-1 (R1) hole I14
Solder up from I14 to H14
Solder across to the left from H14 to H12
Solder up from H12 to B12
Solder across the the left from B12 to B9

Solder for TERMINAL-2 (T2) holes B9 to D9



SOLDER PIN-2 (P2) - RELAY-2 (R2):
Diode (D2-R2) will have a wire pulled through at hole X11.  Solder through it with the solder bead and at end snip off left over wire as close to the solder bead as you can.
Use the following hole locations for the solder bead.

PIN-2 (P2) / RELAY-2 (R2) to TERMINAL-2 (T2) / RELAY-2 (R2):
Start at PIN-2 (P2) on RELAY-2 (R2) hole Q19
Solder down from Q19 to S19
Solder across to the left from S19 to S11
Solder down from S11 to X11
Solder across to the left from X11 to X9

Solder for TERMINAL-2 (T2) holes X9 to V9


SOLDER PIN-4 (P4) - RELAY-1 (R1):
Use the following hole locations for the solder bead.

PIN-4 (P4) / RELAY-1 (R1) to TERMINAL-4 (T4) / RELAY-1 (R1):
Start at PIN-4 (P4) on RELAY-1 (R1) hole D19
Solder to the right from D19 to D26
Solder down D26 to G26
Solder across to the right from G26 to G28 

Solder for TERMINAL-4 (T4) holes F28 to H28


SOLDER PIN-4 (P4) - RELAY-2 (R2):
Use the following hole locations for the solder bead.

PIN-4 (P4) / RELAY-2 (R2) to TERMINAL-4 (T4) / RELAY-2 (R2):
Start at PIN-4 (P4) on RELAY-2 (R2) hole V14
Solder up from V14 to U14
Solder across to the right from U14 to U21
Solder up from U21 to T21
Solder across to the right from T21 to T28

Solder for TERMINAL-4 (T4) holes T28 to R28


SOLDER PIN-3 (P3) - RELAY-1 (R1):
Use the following hole locations for the solder bead.

PIN-3 (P3) / RELAY-1 (R1) to TERMINAL-3 (T3) / RELAY-1 (R1):
Start at PIN-3 (P3) on RELAY-1 (R1) hole D14
Solder up from D14 to B14
Solder across to the right from B14 to B28

Solder for TERMINAL-3 (T3) holes C28 to A28


SOLDER PIN-3 (P3) - RELAY-2 (R2):
Use the following hole locations for the solder bead.

VERY IMPORTANT TO BE CAREFUL WHEN YOU SOLDER PIN-3 (P3) AT RELAY-2 (R2)
the PIN-3 (P3) on RELAY-2 (R2) is next to the solder bead from PIN-4 (P4) on RELAY-2 (R2).  Maintain the line break between the solder.  If they join this project will not work correctly and could short the tool out.  NO MISTAKES HERE!! 

PIN-3 (P3) / RELAY-2 (R12 toTERMINAL-3 (T3) / RELAY-2 (R):
Start at PIN-3 (P3) on RELAY-2 (R) hole V19
Solder DOWN from v19 to X19
Solder across to the right from X19 to B28

Solder for TERMINAL-3 (T3) holes C28 to X28


COMPLETED PCB:
All componets are installed and connected at the right locations for a full functional testing tool.

Step 12: INSERT PCB -- into outlet box

Picture of INSERT PCB -- into outlet box
TUBING-2.bmp
INSERT.bmp

MATERIALS NEEDED:

1 -- PCB - worked on in STEP 11

4 - 10mm Insulated Standoffs

1/4OD X 1/8ID X 1/4 Tubing


ADD STANDOFFS:
Add 4 insulated standoffs to the bottom of the PCB.  This will give support to the PCB once all the wires have been put into place.

TUBING POSITIONED:
Place 1/4" tubing over the mounting screw.  This will allow for some give in the PCB as you position wires in the TERMINAL BLOCKS (T).

INSERT COMPLETED PCB:
Find the "T" mark you made in your box.  Have that positioned away from you.  Insert your PCB into the OUTLET box.  Alpha letters will be on the right side.  TERMINAL-1 (T1) will be on the left side.  Line-up your mounting screw with the hole drilled in the plastic rise in the middle of the box.  Make sure the short tubing stays on the mounting screw.  Tighten the mounting until firmly in place and standoffs are firmly sitting on the bottom of the box.

Step 13: CONNECT EVERYTHING UP!!!!!!

MATERIALS NEEDED:

1 -- OUTLET box from STEP 11

2 --  Completed COVER PLATE from STEP 8



CONNECT POWER WIRE:
Take the "BLACK" wire from the power cord and connect to TERMINAL-1 (T1) on the PCB.

 
TERMINAL-5 CONNECTIONS:
Using the 2 "BLACK" wires from "SAFETY BINDING POST" (black top) connect one to TERMINAL-5 (T5) / RELAY-1 (R1)  with the un-connected other “BLACK” wire now connect it to TERMINAL-5 (T5) / RELAY-2 (R2).

Next connect the "BLACK" wires from the "LED" hardware.  It is important to connect the wires in the correct locations.  "LED-1" must connect to TERMINAL-5(T5) / RELAY-1 (R1) and "LED-2" must connect to TERMINAL-5 (T5) / RELAY-2 (R2).
 
  
TERMINAL-2 CONNECTIONS:
“SAFETY BINDING POST” with red tops. Connect Safety Binding Post-1 (red top) SBP-RT-1 to TERMINAL-2 (T2) / RELAY-1 (R1) and connect Safety Binding Post-2 (red top) SBP-RT-2 to TERMINAL-2 (T2) / RELAY-2 (R2)
 
Next connect the "red" wires from the "LED" hardware.  It is important to connect the wires in the correct locations.  "LED-1" must connect to TERMINAL-2 (T5) / RELAY-1 (R1) and "LED-2" must connect to TERMINAL-2 (T2) / RELAY-2 (R2).


TERMINAL-3 CONNECTIONS:
Using the middle "BLACK" wire from ROCKER SWITCH-1 (RS-1) connect it to TERMINAL-3 (T3) / RELAY-1 (R1).  Now using the middle "BLACK" wire from ROCKER SWITCH-2 (RS-2) connect it to TERMINAL-3 (T3) / RELAY-2 (R2).  This connection will make the outlet controled NC (normally closed).  This can be changed depending on user needs for the testing tool.

TERMINAL-4 CONNECTIONS:
At this time TERMINAL-4 (T4) will not be used.  When configured with TERMINAL-4 (T4) the outlet it controls becomes NO (normally open).  This is a configuration is a choice users select depending out the needs of the testing tool. 

ROCKER SWITCH - "BLACK" wire (non-center) outside wire.
Connect the outside "BLACK" wire to OUTLET "HOT" side.  Be sure to connect ROCKER SWITCH-1 (RS1) to OUTLET-1 (O1) on the "HOT" side of the OUTLET.  Now cconnect ROCKER SWITCH-2 (RS2) to OUTLET-2 (O2) on the "HOT" side of the OUTLET

"COMM" CONNECTION:
All that will be left to connect are the "WHITE" wires.  These are all the "COMM" connections.  Pull them together and use shrink-tubing to connect them together.  Once you have all the "COMM" wires together twist them together and finish the job with a wire nut to cover the connection.

MOUNT THE OUTLET INTO THE BOX:
Now that all the wires are connected mount the outlet into the box.  Be careful to not cause any connections to come loose (or the outlets will not work).

CONNECT COVER PLATE TO  BOX:
The last task is to work the wires into the box and attach cover plate to the box.  Be careful here as there are a lot of wires and connections that can work loose.  Just work the wires in at a slow pace and you will be fine with this task.
 

Step 14: SENSOR INPUT - simple design to give starting point

Picture of SENSOR INPUT - simple design to give starting point

SENSOR INPUT:
This is a simple "SENSOR INPUT" to get you started.  It is a "BUTTON" sensor.  You push the button and PINS 7 & 8 on the Arduino go "HIGH".  PIN 7 controls "OUTLET-1" and PIN 8 controls "OUTLET-2".  More complex "SENSORS" can be developed with this tool.  I will leave that up to you to do.  PIN-2 on the Arduino functions as an "INPUT" for the "BUTTON"

Step 15: Arduino Sketch

Picture of Arduino Sketch


SKETCH FOR WORK THE TESTING TOOL:

This Sketch is just to get you started and will allow you to control the outlets in a very general way.  You can visit:

Luke Liseman and his "Garduino" design
http://www.instructables.com/id/Garduino_Gardening_Arduino/

Here you will find other sensors that you can play with.  These will safely work on the
POW-Rduino.

POW_Rduino SKETCH:

// Turn on LED when the button is pressed
// send sensor output to RELAY1 and RELAY2
// will be used to turn on high voltage outlets for POW-Rduino
// and keep it on after it is released


#define LED 13    // the pin for the LED
#define BUTTON 2  // the input pin where the pushbutton is connected
#define RELAY1 7  // pin for RELAY1 connection
#define RELAY2 8  // pin for RELAY2 connection
int val = 0;      // val will be used to store the state
                  // of the input pin
int old_val = 0;  // this variable stores the previous
                  // value of "val"
int state = 0;    // 0=LED off while 1=LED on


void setup() {
  pinMode(LED, OUTPUT);    // tell Arduino LED is an output
  pinMode(BUTTON, INPUT);  // and BUTTON is an input
  pinMode(RELAY1, OUTPUT);  // tell Arduino RELAY1 is an output
  pinMode(RELAY2, OUTPUT);  // tell Ardrion RELAy2 is an output
}

void loop() {
  val = digitalRead(BUTTON);  // read input value and store it                          
                        
                             
  // check if there was a transition
  if ((val == HIGH) && (old_val == LOW)){
    state = 1 - state;
  }
 
  old_val = val;    // val is now old, let's store it
 
 
  if (state == 1) {
    digitalWrite(LED, HIGH);    // turn LED on
  } else {
    digitalWrite(LED, LOW);     // turn LED off
  }

  if (state == 1) {
    digitalWrite(RELAY1, HIGH);  // singnal sent to RELAY1
  } else {
    digitalWrite(RELAY1, LOW);
  }
 
 if (state == 1) {
  digitalWrite(RELAY2, HIGH);  // singnal sent to RELAY2
 } else {
  digitalWrite(RELAY2, LOW);
 }
 
}

Step 16: CONNECT ARDUINO TO THE "POW-Rduino"

Picture of CONNECT ARDUINO TO THE

TIME TO CONNECT "POW-Rduino" with your Arduino:
At this point all that is left is to connect your Arduino to the "POW-Rduino".  This can be done by connecting PIN-7 Arduino output to the SAFETY BINDING POST - 1 SBP-RT-1 (red top) and PIN-8 Arduino output to the SAFETY BINDING POST - 2  SBP-RT-2 (red top).  Next connect Arduino Ground from the I/O pins to SAFETY BINDING POST -GND (black top).  You are now good to go.

Step 17: USES

Picture of USES

Many things can be done with this "POW-Rduino testing tool"

I' am going to use it to build "SMART TUBES"  for my aquaponic units.  I can now develop the sensor I need to control all the important operational elements I need to automate the growing of food and fish.

You can now work safely with high voltage and develop just about any thing you want.

Step 18: THANK YOUS

Picture of THANK YOUS

Many THANKS to a number of people.

My wife Denise - she help me on many STEPS of this project and allowed me the time to get the project finished.

Andrew Milome & Malcolm Knapp for their help at the SF:Make meeting held in October.  I was having trouble with understanding where to locate the DIODES on the PCB and they worked with me until I had a clear picture of what was needed to make it work.

Joe DeStasi for his help on understanding how the Rocker Switch works.

Robert Blackwell for his help on the STDP connection with the Arduino output.  This made the project work to perfection

Ed Lynch for ideas and moral support on his vist to see my aquaponics unit and we developed the concept of the POW-Rdunio.
Kallan4 years ago
I think evix means that 110 isn't anywhere near high voltage, it's only low voltage.

Still lethal, but not classified as high voltage.
gada8881 year ago

your tutorial is very well laid out and great source as well.but would a wiring diagram be better to follow?another question,there are already 5V arduino relay board available in the market.what was the diffirence between yours and others.

rik (author) 4 years ago
Kallan - good point - thanks for your interest in this project.

rik
evix5 years ago

110, high volt?
rik (author)  evix5 years ago
I only use it for 110 as I am located in the US.  For higher voltage the spec's on the relay - I think state it would be 5 amps at 220.   You need to review the spec's yourself to make that determination.