Step 2: Carve & Cement the Bike Frame Rests

Take the 3" length of 2" diameter pipe & split it length-wise. You end up with (2) 3" long half-pipes. These will be used to rest the bike frame. One will be the rest for the bike's bottom-bracket shell, & the other will be the rest for the down-tube (the frame member that runs from the head-set down to the crank). Lets start carving & assembling the down-tube rest, since that will be easier than the bottom-bracket rest.

Start carving one of the T-fittings so that the 2" half-pipe can be cemented parallel it. You want to begin carving the branch of the T that runs perpendicular to the other two. You want the low spots on that branch to be pointing toward the straight-through branches so that when you cement the half-pipe it will be parallel to the straight-through direction. Look at the photos to see what I mean.

Begin rough cut carving with a tool that can remove a lot of material quickly. (I started out with the hack saw, then tried a bolt-cutter, & finally went out & bought a Dremel Tool. I've always wanted one, & justified the purchase based on the money I'm saving by not buying a bike stand.) Be careful to not remove too much material during the rough cut. Dish the shape out to match the curve of the 2" half-pipe. Match the half-pipe frequetnly to your carving as you progress in order to tell where to carve & to maintain the parallel of the two pieces.

As you get closer to the final shape & it becomes more difficult to tell where to carve, start using the dry-erase marker as an indicator. Cover the outside of the half-pipe in the dry-erase color & let it dry. Then fit the half-pipe into the carved area & rub it around a bit. The dry-erase color will come off on the high spots that need to be carved down. In addition to carving down the high spots, keep checking that the pieces are fitting parallel. If they are not, you may need to remove a little more than just the dry-erase color in some spots to bring them back into parallel.

As the fit gets closer to the final shape, remove less & less material each time. Eventually you will want to switch to a file & finally sand paper. You will never completely fill all the gaps, & you don't need to since the PVC cement will soften the plastic material & bridge small gaps.

When you think the fit is close enough, clean the parts thoroughly in preparation for cementing. Make sure all of the PVC particles & dry-erase color are removed. (I don't think it is necessary to use PVC primer, since this bond doesn't need to hold water.)

Now comes a critical step. Since we are not fitting these parts usign their insertion fittings, we must make certain that the cement is applied in the correct place & that the parts are aligned properly. Set the parts on a clean flat work surface in a well ventilated well lit area. Observe all the precautions on the PVC cement label. Apply a thin layer of cement to the surface you have just carved and to the outside of the half-pipe where it will contact. Bring the two parts together & smear the cement around slightly for no more than 2 seconds - making sure you end up with them properly aligned before they begin to harden. Hold the parts together for at least 30 seconds more. Then let the cemented assembly sit for at least 2 hours. After at least 2 hours, you can add another light coat of cement to the joint to help fill it in & reinforce it (this isn't necessary with pipes inserted into fittings, but since this is a surface-to-surface fit, every bit helps).

Next, lets assemble the cross-fitting & the bottom-bracket rest. Hold the cross-fitting up in a position like the letter X (not like a + sign). The 2 branches pointing down will join to the legs of the work stand. The branch pointing upper-left will join to the front-tube support. The one pointing to the upper right will be carved to hold the bottom-bracket support.

Start by placing the remaining 2" diameter by 3" length half-pipe in the upper crotch of the X with the open side facing up. You could cement it in place right there, but there would only be 2 tiny contact points - not very strong. Since the upper-left branch is going to hold the pipe for the front-tube support, our only choice is to carve into the upper-right branch. Go ahead & carve away, using the same method used on the front-tube support. As you carve, make certain the half-pipe is aligned straight up (with the cross-fitting remaining in the X position) & perpendicular to the branches of the fitting.

It is OK to let the half-pipe rest against the upper-left branch of the cross. As a matter of fact, it is probably preferable & will lend strength to the final assembly. This bottom-bracket support will hold most of the weight of the bike - it will need all the strength you can give it. This is why we started with the front-tube bracket - so that you could get practice carving & cementing. As you carve away, watch to see how small the gap in the crotch of the X is getting. You don't need to completely close it off, but let it get small enough that it will hold some PVC shavings from your carving without falling through. Later we will use some of the shavings to help reinforce the joint.

Continue to carve until the fit is good & the gap in the crotch of the X is small. Finish sanding & clean up the area - but save some of the PVC shavings for later. Set the parts on your clean flat work surface. Apply a thin layer of cement to the surfaces, including where the half-pipe will contact upper-left branch of the X. Bring the two parts together & smear the cement around slightly for no more than 2 seconds - making sure you end up with them properly aligned before they begin to harden. Hold the parts together for at least 30 seconds more. Then let the cemented assembly sit for at least 2 hours.

After at least 2 hours, you will lay the X down on the work surface & sprinkle some of the PVC shavings into the gap in the crotch of the X on one side. Then dribble a small amount of cement into the shavings. Sprinkle some more shavings into the cement & press them in with a nail or a stick. Let it sit for at least 2 hours, then flip it over & repeat the sprinkling, dribbling, & pressing on the other side. You can also coat the other parts of the cemented joint with another coat of cement to make sure it is strong. Just be certain not to dribble cement into the branches of the fitting that will later need to have pipe inserted.

Now you're done with the most tedious & time-consuming part of the build. From this point on, we will progress quickly & begin to see the stand take shape.
<p>Hi</p><p>I'm planning on building one of these, i really like the idea!</p><p>But i'm still left with one important question: How stable is the bike standing on the stand? I can see the stand is stable, but is the bike stable ON the stand?like if you give it pushes back and forth does it fall off the stand easily? Could it fall of by cranking and other stuff you do when washing (that would be the main purpose) or working on the bike? Could it fall off by using a pressure washer? (yes i know it's not good for the bike, but it is easy !)</p><p>Thanks in advance !</p>
<p>Hello</p><p>Yesterday I finish the Stand and today when i try to put my bike, the stand just collapse, even with 2 base outrigger.<br>The Stand not support the weight of my bike by far, and is very unstable. My bike is a Vairo XR 3.8 (the one in my avatar), not one with carbon frame, instead with a light alluminium alloy frame.<br>I don&acute;t know if your bike its very very light (in the picture you post the frame of the stand appear not bend half inch!) or the PVC here in Argentina is quite inferior.<br>Well, I start to think the same design but build with wood.<br><br>Thank for the Instructable!</p>
<p>I am currently making one of these. In step 2, once I got the rough fit, I've found it easier to wrap some course emery cloth around a piece of the pipe I am going to use and use it to sand and shape the final stages.for a smooth tight fit. Am working on the center 4-way piece now and am tempted to just use coarse emery cloth, all the way, since it's such a strange fit.</p>
had to do a bit of modification but successful in making it
Thanks for the great idea! <br>This saved me tons of money and works just as well. <br>I found it useful to use a nut and bolt to secure the PVC half to the 4 way connection since I have a really heavy bike.
What is the chisel for? I see it mentioned in the tools list but not in any of the steps.
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Ok, so I went to build this, and while it looks fairly sturdy...but it was going to cost me almost $70. Most of that cost was in the tools, since i don't own any.
Very interesting tutorial. I would like to share bike repair videos visiting my blog: http://bikerepairshops.net <br> <br>Thanks <br> <br>Alberto
Just finished, worked great.......used a 1.5 &quot; holesaw on a drill press to cut out the the cross piece and the T fitting. The half pipes then fit perfectly. Also used &quot;JB Weld&quot; (two part epoxy) to secure the half pipes. It is thick so it fills any gaps and is strong as steel. Left one end of each elbow and an angle brace un glued so I can store it easier.<br>Thanks
Of course, with a little playground sand poured into the base you can correct the tippiness with ease. Granted, it makes it a little less portable but if that isn't a problem it would be an easy fix.
I am thinking of going with this one because even though I'll have to buy a hacksaw and wood chisel (unlike the other one with the metal pipes), it looks more compact and of course lighter.
let me first say i like this design over some of the other ones i've seen but to make it more stable have you tried to use the clamp like this one I found to hold the frame? <br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.yourmtb.com/story/build_your_own_bike_repair_stand_for_under_20">http://www.yourmtb.com/story/build_your_own_bike_repair_stand_for_under_20</a><br/>it might be safer to <br/><br/>and if you make the bottom bracket support more of a circle eg higher sides so its tighter around the bottom bracket you could then maybe use something to tie it down <br/><br/>just some suggestions<br/><br/>but i really like it good job i can see lots of potential in it <br/>thankyou<br/>matthew<br/>
your link is bad
for more stability run a peice of pvc to the top tube and make a clamp
I had problems with stability because the derailleur cable routing goes under my bottom bracket, and the plastic guide is attached with a hex head metal screw. I drilled a 1/2" hole to accept the head of the screw, and glued 1/8" strips of the 2" diameter pipe to the inside edges of the bottom bracket support. I padded these with weather stripping foam. I also padded the down tube support with pieces of inner tube so that it fits the down tube snugly. It works well now. Thanks!
i love your bike stand ,so i built one,i did make 1 inprovment, i put a 8" 1 1/2" pipe the top "t" the forks rest on the end of the pipe, it keeps the front wheel straight. i hope you like my idea.mike
You just saved me about $50. Me and my Cannondale that I have named Rhodes thank you.
oh yeah, Nice bike! Long live rock shox!
Sorry, but that bike is rubbish! Really good idea though.
Not all of us have several thousand dollars to drop on a proper mountain bike. Iron Horse makes some great entry-level bikes. What matters is getting out there on trail, regardless of what quality bike you have. Cheers.
Where you talk about whittling the T to fit the half-pipe, there's practically no better way to fine-tune the fit than by wrapping the half-pipe in sandpaper and rubbing. Start with something rough, like 80 grit wet-dry (wet it to ease the process), to really remove material, and switch to finer grades to refine edge. A plausible progression might be 80, 160, 320, and if you're really serious about a smooth edge before cementing, 600 grit.
I have a question. How heavy a bike can this stand take? I am very interested to build one, but i have a Kona Stinky, which is..pretty heavy, like 19kg or so, just roughly weighed it on my bathroom scale. I don't really know how strong PVC pipes are, but i am really afraid the structure will give way once i load it up. Any ideas? Thanks!
My bike weighs about 35 lbs (about 16 kg) plus I've had an under-seat bag with about 1 kg of tools mounted on it. The 2 inch PVC pipe is pretty sturdy & most of the weight is held right at the tip of the triangle - the strongest point. I think it should have no problem holding 19 kg, but you might not want to apply a lot of force while working on the bike. If you do build it, make sure you put both out-riggers on the base. You could also permanently glue the outriggers on; that would make it sturdier but less transportable.
I really like your idea. its very simple and seems quick to build. I was going to buy one for 100$ before i saw this! thanks for posting it!
I just built this, and it went together very easily. Thanks! I just left the joint in the lower right of the cross fitting a dry fit, and the outrigger a dry fit so that I can stow it under the bed, or in a closet. I also did a rough fit of the half-pipes, and they are very sturdy, albeit very ugly.
Great instructable. I'd like a stand so I can ride my bike indoors for physical therapy (I have a bad knee). Anyone have a design for this? Anyone?
Check out the wooden indoor stand. Seems to me that it would work, especially if you used more sticks for the frame support riser or maybe a larger piece of wood like a 2x4. Also for indoor riding, you might want to put a piece of inner tube or something on riser so that the bike frame wouldn't sit on the wood. Remember to put something under the front wheel to raise it so that the bike is level. But all this still leaves you with no drag on the rear wheel, so I dunno what good it is...maybe others have a suggestion...
If you happen to have a treadmill, the bottom could sit on the edges and the back wheel could push the treadmill belt.
I really like your design. I think I'm going to put some sand in the base to keep the stuff from hopping around as I'm cranking.
this is pretty cool. I think i would build mine out of steel but that's cuz I have a welder, but I still might use this design.
I just built this and it was indeed pretty simple and only cost $20. However now that it's built I want to do it all over again because I have an idea for a massive improvement. The problem with this stand is that it's so large. Here's my idea to solve to make the whole thing collapsible but not less sturdy. Use 2" diameter joints and then cement 6 inches of the 2" pipe in all joints (except for the unused joint in the cross joint). Next use all the same length 1.5" pipes but they'd now only dry fit into the 6 inch overlap with the 2" joints. This should be just as sturdy and when you're done you can pull it all apart. Setup would probably only take a minute or two.
I like this and the idea of putting it all away too. However, you really only need to do one thing. Drill holes straight through, on either side of the "T"s where the big "U" foot and two smaller feet extent. Then use a pin, or 16p nail to hold them connected temporarily. When done, remove pin and feet and tuck everything away.
Having just completed building this project, I have a few comments: 1. A velcro strap won't help stabilize the bike at all. The full weight of the bike is bearing down on the two half-pipes, it won't fall off even with some substantial cranking. 2. On my bike, getting the balance on this type of stand is tough because (A) the front wheel turns to one side (racing bike), and (B) the dérailleur cables both go under the bottom bracket. 3. The author mentions needing to carefully carve out space for the two half pipes, using a Dremel, then a file, then sandpaper. No such precision is necessary. I hacked mine out with a Dremel for a few minutes, applied the glue, and let it set for a few hours. Even without a larger contact patch for the glue it holds just fine.
Terrific idea. I second the idea of using velcro straps to lash the bike to the stand to keep it nice and secure when wrenching on the bike.
Excellent instructable, especially since it fills a definite need. I always pondered why there wasn't some cheap alternative to those professional steel rigs for performing basic home maintenance. I'll withhold full judgement until I can see for myself how well it compares functionally, but from your pictures it looks solid. One concern for us apartment-dwellers is always space, especially when you've got a bike as a third roommate. I wonder if you left the rectangular base unglued, that in between maintenance jobs it could simply be removed and the whole thing tucked up against the wall? A couple of ideas for extra stability: first, a velcro strap around the downtube cup to lock the bike in while working; you could even line the inside of the strap with tire-tube rubber to make it extra-grippy. Second, maybe have two bungee cords running from the downtube support to both fork dropouts - might keep your front wheel from flopping around. Keep up the good work!
Creative idea. I like it. Nice mods to the down tube and BB support. Two possible ideas to improve stability: Use a bungee cord connected to either wheel and the PVC base support (directly under the wheel). Obviously, this would have to be on the wheel a user was not working on. Add piece of PVC from the base support with a quick release on the end. Remove the front wheel and insert into the quick release like some on-top-of-the-car bike carriers. Well done!

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