I left the bed flat to acccomodate various uses. We have mounted our dog crate, two plastic crates for groceries, and an athletic bag so far. Maximum load weight tested so far around 50 lbs. The trailer itself is very lightweight.
I left the bed flat to acccomodate various uses. We have mounted our dog crate, two plastic crates for groceries, and an athletic bag so far. Maximum load weight tested so far around 50 lbs. The trailer itself is very lightweight.

































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How did you put your trailer together? Glue?
Thanks
The first thing to do with any pvc pipe project is to "dry fit" all the pieces together to get the proper fitting / angles. This is critical, as once it is glued there is no turning back! Make marks on all the joint spots so you can line it up correctly during the gluing process.
There is a special glue that is used to secure the pipes together. It is a two step process. The first is a cleaner that leaves a "non slippery" surface for the glue to adhere to. It is usually purple in color. You spread the cleaner on the inside of the receiving pipe. Then spread it on the end of the pipe that will be inserted. Be careful not to drip or get the cleaner on parts not to be glued. It is basically like a dye, and will penetrate the pvc and not come off!
Next apply the glue to the inside receiving portion and push together. The glue sets up EXTREMELY FAST! I mark with a marker on the pipes where they should line up before gluing so that my angles are correct.
One last note. It is important to get a straight cut on the pvc for the best results. My technique is to measure to 4-5 points on the pipe, then join the points together with a continuous line (so it looks like a stripe going all the way around the pipe) and cut on the line. I usually just do a surface cut all the way around and then the saw will follow as you turn the pipe in one hand and saw with the other. Making a "cradle" to guide the pipe on it's path is also a good idea. I use a hacksaw rather than a wood saw, that has a small tooth size as the pvc is quite dense material wise.
I asked a friend of mine - plumber - and he advised me to use heat. So I "cooked" them over stoves open flame :D And than the tube and fitting came together and stuck. No glue what so ever. Now i just have to get everything together and test the bonds strength, the joints.
Will come back with updates...sometime :)
I'm also curious about solid 45* elbow joint, at front of trailer, to tow rod....over time I could see it tear at its bend, as it would be flexing a lot under load. Maybe a couple of inches of hose between front X fitting and the 45* elbow?a large carabiner? piece of conveyor belt?
What is the metal holding axle onto the PVC? Are axles center of trailer, or offset a bit towards rear end?
http://efmdg.org/efmdg/wp-content/gallery/technology/bambootrailer/NEW%20Bamboo%20Trailer%20Instructions.pdf
As I have said, I would likely double-up on the thickness of this to get better wheel stability. This is probably the weak point in the design. The joint near the seatpost mount is a pretty sturdy PVC connection that hasn't shown any stress so far. Again, I have only had 40-50lbs total on this trailer. Pulling a bike trailer is a bit like trailering with a vehicle, you take more time to stop, wider turns and avoid abrupt braking situations. Remember you have extra length and weight and no extra braking power.
Have fun with this. To increase the bed strength one could add one or two more "cross pieces" to the frame which supports the wire shelving bed. I was trying to keep weight low and this is the prototype version so extensive testing was not yet complete. How's that for a disclaimer? :D
I imagine the trailer would provide the similar experience to a passenger...