Recorders are fairly easy to play; much easier than side-blown flutes. They are relatively cheap instruments to buy, but if you want some DIY fun, here's how to make one out of PVC pipe.
To hear how it sounds, listen to the .mp3 audio file in the last step.
To hear how it sounds, listen to the .mp3 audio file in the last step.
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Signing UpStep 1: The Parts of the Recorder
The recorder is composed of three parts; the mouthpiece, the body with the fingering holes, and the standard connector which joins the mouthpiece and the body.
The spacing and size of the holes in the body are copied from a store-bought plastic recorder.
The mouthpiece is composed of concentric layers of different size pipe. The pipe diameters are: 1/2" CPVC (smallest diameter used for hot water), 1/2" PVC (the layer around it with a section removed to create an air channel), and 3/4" PVC (to cap the top of the air channel).
The air channel conducts the air you blow to a sounding hole. A wedge shape at the hole interrupts the air flow and creates vibration and sound.
The fingering holes in the body modify the pitch of the sound by creating different amounts of resistance to the air passing through the pipe. Opening all the holes lets air escape with less resistance by the easiest route, through the first holes. Closing all the holes creates a longer column of air inside the body, and more resistance, which results in lower notes.
The spacing and size of the holes in the body are copied from a store-bought plastic recorder.
The mouthpiece is composed of concentric layers of different size pipe. The pipe diameters are: 1/2" CPVC (smallest diameter used for hot water), 1/2" PVC (the layer around it with a section removed to create an air channel), and 3/4" PVC (to cap the top of the air channel).
The air channel conducts the air you blow to a sounding hole. A wedge shape at the hole interrupts the air flow and creates vibration and sound.
The fingering holes in the body modify the pitch of the sound by creating different amounts of resistance to the air passing through the pipe. Opening all the holes lets air escape with less resistance by the easiest route, through the first holes. Closing all the holes creates a longer column of air inside the body, and more resistance, which results in lower notes.
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Variables, like sounding hole size are easier to adjust by trimming off material than adding it on. I wouldn't even know how to do that, so maybe it is best to just start from scratch if that is the problem. Start holes on the small side rather than the large side, if you are not sure of them.
It's a balance of a lot of factors. Play with them.
Years ago, someone I knew was making shakuhachi bamboo flutes and I could never get a sound out of them. They are probably the simplest end blown flutes as far as fabrication of the sounding area goes. Lately I've been experimenting with making them out of PVC, specifically to fit my mouth and have been having a lot better luck. I still haven't got the necessary lip control for reliable playing, though. Recorder type mouthpieces take all that art out of it, along with a load of frustration.
I don't think you can just scale everything up. For one thing, bigger air channels would mean more breath, and tiring out sooner. I would probably keep the channels and sounding holes about the same size as the soprano.