The design is simple: A tube of PVC filled with sand sandwiched between two pieces of wood with all-thread.
These stands should be sturdy enough to hold a pair of full size bookshelves or studio monitors (10x12 footprint) at least 4 feet high.
Step 1: Materials and Tools
~10 feet of 4" PVC (you can use smaller diameter if you like, I wanted a heavier look)
~10 feet of 3/8" All-thread
4'x4' piece of 3/4" plywood (I used some leftover birch plywood from a previous project)
6 3/8" nuts and washers
Spray paint (I used Krylon Fusion for plastics).
Wood stain (optional)
Caulk gun (unless using squeezable caulk)
1" and 3/8" paddle drill bits (or equivalent)
hack saw (for cutting the PVC and all-thread)
circular saw, or something else to cut the plywood
Step 2: Cut the Bases and Speaker Platforms
I decided on a 16" base so they're nice and sturdy, and a 12"x14" speaker platform to give the speakers room.
Cut the wood to the sizes you need using a circular saw or equivalent. This isn't an instructable about cutting wood, but remember to measure twice and cut once...
Step 3: Cut the PVC Pipe
This isn't an instructable about cutting PVC, but I posted some details on my site about doing exactly this: Cutting PVC
The easiest thing to do is find a way to keep it from rolling (I clamped a 2/4" in front of mine) and hold it down (I used the sand I bought for this project). Then, Cut next to the electrical tape that you wrapped around the pipe to keep it straight. Cut carefully (and slowly) and you should end up with fairly straight cuts.
Step 4: Cut the All-Thread
After you cut the All-thread, do a test fit with you 3/8" nut to make sure that nothing is wrong with the thread where you cut it.
Step 5: Drill and Countersink the Base and Platforms
Using a drill and a 1" drill bit, drill about halfway through the bases and platforms ON ONE SIDE. This is the countersink that will allow you nut and washer to sit flush with the underside of the boards.
You'll want to test fit your washers and nuts to make sure they sit flush with the underside of the board, if they stick out, drill the countersink a little deeper, being careful not to drill straight through the board.
After the countersink is complete, drill a 3/4" in hole right in the center of it, so that the all-thread fits through.
Step 6: Paint the PVC, Stain the Boards
I went with some leftover dark stain, and black for the tubes.
If you are just looking to do something quick and dirty, skip this step, otherwise you'll have to wait for everything to dry before continuing...
Step 7: Cork or Felt Your Bases (optional)
You'll want 4 small pieces per base, one for each corner. Stick them on there with wood glue and wait for it to dry
Step 8: Assemble the Bases
There is a trick to this:
1. First screw a bolt on one end of your all-thread.
2. Put the washer on underneath it
3. Slip that end through the TOP of the base board.
4. Put a washer into the counter sink on the end that is sticking out of the bottom
5. Screw a nut on the end that is sticking out of the bottom
6. Put the base down on the ground, and pull the all-thread up so that it is flush with the base of the board
7. Screw the top nut down to clamp the all-thread to the base.
The pictures might explain this a bit better
Step 9: Caulk the PVC to the Bases
This needs to set for a while, I suggest put the top on the all-thread, and tightening the nut and washer down to keep everything clamped together while it dries.
TIP: Use clear caulk if you can...it's bound to seep out the bottom no matter how careful you are.
Step 10: Fill the Tubes With Sand
Once you've filled the tube all the way, screw the top back on and lightly knock the stand against the ground. Just pick the entire thing off the ground an inch or so and let it drop. This helps the sand settle in the tube so you can add more.
TIP: Do this step close to where you intend to use these...they are a bit heavy after this.
Step 11: Put the Platform On
Step 12: Use 'em!
Here is a picture of my stands in the studio.