PYRO DETONATOR 2 igniter detonator fireworks pyrotechnics

Step 3 ------Wiring-------

So now you have full access start putting in all the switches and see if it all fits, maybe edit a little with your dremel. Choose if you are going to sodder your wires to the contacts inside the detonator or you are going to hot glue it. I hot glued because you can take it off easily so you can change things easily. Now when your done with that start with the 30 meter wire and jack plug, connect the wire strand to the jack plug neatly and tape over it.

Comments

[sullivan99]

Quick Question: Will this system alone ignite a flash pot?
Much Appreciated

[skrubybubl]

Im not sure which one is the jack, and if anyone can
Please send a link where you can buy it
Thanks

[chemist71186]

Ok quick question. Considering the modern day understanding that electricity (flow of electrons) comes out of the negative (black) side of the battery and goes through the load (in this case the switches and buttons etc) and returns back to the battery at the positive side of battery, here is my question....... Looking at the wiring schematic, if the electricity is coming out of the negative (black) side of the battery, then it appears that the first thing the electricity goes to in the circuit if the phone jack which has wires leading to the explosive. So, why is it that when you wire it like this, that the electricity can only flow to the explosive if you flip the switch and hit the momentary push button? Because, in my mind according to this schematic, if the only way to complete the circuit would be to turn the key on, flip the switch, and press the monentary button, then wouldn't the electricity HAVE to be coming out of the positive (red) side of the battery? If this question seemed confusing, someone just please explain to me EXACTLY where the electricity from this battery is entering the wires and EXACTLY where it is coming out of the wires and entering back into the battery. Thanks

[skicero]

Electricity only flows when there is a path for it to flow. And it flows pretty much instantaneously so, for all practical purposes, the direction of the flow does not matter. The electricity doesn't go right to the explosive jack because the circuit isn't complete, and thus there is no path for it to flow. You should read up a bit on Electronics theory. :)

[chemist71186]

No, I understand that. What I am saying is I would think that the current must be flowing in the direction that the key must be turned first, then the flip switch must be pressed, then the mom push button must be pressed for this thing to blow something up, right? The reason I say that is because if the current is "everywhere" at all times the circuit is closed, then this ignitor would blow something up without the key on or the flip switch flipped on right?

[rrrmanion]

no electrons can flow till they key is turned- the battery only has 1 terminal connected otherwise. then electricity will flow through the wire with the green led as there is another full circuit. next the arm switch must be pressed so electricity can flow through the green led still then as far as the fire switch. when that is pressed, the electricity flows through all parts of the circuit. and then... BOOM!!!

[chemist711]

HHHEEEELLLPPPP, can anyone answer my last post?

[chemist711]

HHHHEEELLLLLPPPP, Can anyone answer my post below please?

[owwio]

 How do i connect the jack socket?
It is audio not power.

And my key switch has 4 terminals. Y?

please help.

[owwio]

nvm sorted :P

[DurkaDurkaDie]

Yeah i have a question im new here and i was wondering do i have to incorporate the key switch?

[owwio]

if you wish, you can use just 1 switch. The 3 is for both safety and effect. With 1 switch, it is much easier to fire by accident.

[wake11]

Aor the jack how do you make it into two wires when there is only one coming out of it. Please reply asap

[crsereda]

The jack is basically a speaker cable, like this:http://accessories.musiciansfriend.com/product/Horizon-Speaker-Cable?sku=336620. It has two wires(+ and-) already. In the picture of the male and female together it doesn't show, but there are 2 wires.

[Mario1]

Thats the principle: - pole is connected to the jack socket + pole is connected to the key switch than to the arm toggle switch and than to the button switch .. finaly to the other pole of the jack socket so... when there is power to the LED (i forgot to mention that - is conected to the led too) there is no power to the jack cus there are 2 other switch-es who are stoping the outlet that's it ... my english is bad sorry ;)

[misanthrope13]

Hey, my toggle switch has 3 leads, power, acc, and ground. I soldered the pos. wire to the power and the neg. to the acc. Is that right? Oh, and i'm also using 2 jacks instead of one but using the pos. lead on one and the neg lead on the other. Is THAT OK? AND I couldn't find a key switch so I bypassed it altogether. When I plug the battery in the LED lights up. If I push the button when the toggle is off and I have a piece of wire between the two jacks the LED stays on. When the toggle is on and I push it the LED turns off for as long as I hold the button. Is that what's supposed to happen? Oh, AND I'm using a 9v instead of a 7v rechargeable.

[Mario1]

the switch will work (you did soldered wires correctly) the LED is lighting properly 9 v is better than 7 v so... you're fine ;)

[misanthrope13]

Oh and (I can't believe I didn't notice this before) my toggle switch has an LED embedded in it. I'm guessing that that's what the ACC lead is for. But how would I wire that so that the LED in the switch lights when it's in the on position? I hope you don't mind but I borrowed your schematic and edited it to show you what I mean. I have little faith in the second one.

[misanthrope13]

Okay, so I've solved my switch problem, sort of. I figured out that I can't have the LED in the toggle light up when it's thrown because the circuit isn't closed until the button is pushed and if I connect it directly to the negative pole of the battery then I bypass the rest of the circuit which is pointless. Now I have another problem. It doesn't ignite anything. I've tried just touching the battery to some steel wool and it burns it up, so I know that it should work. However, when I test the detonator cables with a multimeter, I only get 7.11v. When I just test the battery I get 9v. I'm losing power somewhere but I can't find it. The edited schematic above shows my setup, just ignore the wire connected to the ACC lead on the toggle. Help plz.

[lunchboxslayer27]

did you connect the negative wire to the ground? i used this switch in a headache machine, and i soldered the neg. wire from the battery holderto the ground, the neg. wire from the buzzer to the ground. then i soldered the pos. wire from the battery holder to power, and the pos. wire from the buzzer to the acc. terminal. my solder sucks, and on the acc terminal it didnt stick, so sometimes the buzzer doesnt go off, but the light does, so im guessing it still gets power from the batt. would it also be possible to use more than 1 9v so you get more power? hope i helped!

[bcomp]

You're probably losing voltage in the toggle switch's LED, that's what happens with mine. Mine also doesn't ignite anything. I can never get a spark between the two copper wires (which is what I'm trying to get for this potato cannon I'm making with some other chaps.)

[skicero]

A spark through the air requires massive ammounts of voltage, in the thousands of volts range. You'll never get that with a 7v or 9v battery. You'd be better off using a servo grill ignitor.

[Saundy]

what else could I use as the igniter and would that effect the battery as well?

[grudge21]

and 1 other thing. i tried to do this using a plastic momentary switch and it melted. what was i doing wrong?

[grudge21]

i have a question about the headphone jack input. do u have to use a headphone jack or can u use just wires and skip the whole headphone jack thing alltogether? i really like this one better than the other one. please reply, thanks, grudge.