Step 9Long-Term Results
For a while I kept the car under a UV-shielded car cover, and for the last 6 months it's been under a carport, to minimize the UV exposure (a good practice for regular automotive paint too). Note that there are a few issues...in one or two locations the paint has cracked from impacts, but more noticeably there are a few spots where bird droppings dissolved the paint. This happened because I neglected to wash off said droppings for several weeks. I will probably touch up these spots with the spray-paint version of Rustoleum.
Anyway....below are the photos, which speak for themselves! They are not altered in any way besides resizing and blurring the plates. Also, it was much sunnier out (July at 2:00 vs December at 5:00) when I took the new pics, so the color doesn't look exactly the same as the old ones.
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W spray cans you must remember, they use alot of thinner in those so they sray out of a can effectively. You would have to multiply your coats by 10 to get the same coverage, thickness as well as keeping a good blend. It is very hard to overlap, w/o overspraying w a small can like that....just doesn t do the job.
I've done light coats of spray before with cans, and even have an air brush but it is no where near the quality required to run rustoleum through it. The fairings on my bike are removable and all made of fiberglass.. going to give it a try, I think :)
When I learned to paint, my instructor said, "Anyone can paint. It takes a painter to do the prep work right."
And how true--the prep is everything. Anyone can spray paint on a properly prepped surface. NOT everyone can properly prepare a surface to be painted.
What you didn't mention is if wanted you could color sand the paint after it has cured with 2000 grit and buff it very carefully.
I did a 1988 ford thunderbird in shiny black. Came great.
Prep work is the key and taking your time.