Introduction: Paint and Finish Drying Kit

This is my first Instructable's posting so be kind :-).
I made some Xmas gifts this season and needed a jig to dry the urethane that I applied on the candle holders.  Normally I would do this by brushing the sides and top, let it dry and then do the bottom. Or use the drying cones/pyramids but they don't work with smaller projects like candle holders. I think there is a better way!. So I decided to make a jig to dry multiple projects at the same time as well as have a way to dry other pieces of different sizes, including long, short, broad etc. I will be using this to dry stained and painted projects as well.
Everything used here was built with materials that were lying around. Overall cost would be less than $5

- 2 pcs  12x12x1/2 inch plywood (you could probably use any dimension you want as long as it fits your purpose.)
- 16 pcs 1 1/4" drywall screws with Philips (cross) heads
- Wood glue or nails or both

Tip: plywood is best as it will not split when you put screws in without drilling a hole or close to the edges of the wood pieces. The drywall screws are thin and "self taping" which work well.

WARNING:
Drywall screws or any other screws are very sharp so you want to be careful as they will be exposed and sticking up when not in use

Other Materials and Tools
- Something to cut the plywood. I used my band saw as I am very comfortable with it
- A straight edge
- Pencil
- Drill with Phillips drill bit
- Work bench
- Sand paper or other sanding apparatus
- Brad or Finish nailer

Step 1: Draw and Mark the Plywood


I drew directly on the plywood that I used.  I used this pattern because of the type of projects that I work with. I used a combination of 1, 3 and 4 screws per square.
Why: well look at the pictures and see how I have used them for different drying pieces. This served my drying projects well.
The 4 single screws can be used for larger projects (cutting boards), the 3 and 4 screws can be used for smaller ones.

Step 2: Cut the Plywood Pieces and Frame


Cut the plywood 12x24 x 1/2 inch into 2 pieces of equal size. One is used as teh backing board and the other for the frame and squares. My squares are not perfectly squared up. I just set my band saw fence to 3.5 inches and try to make squares the last row is not perfect but that doesn’t matter. This project doesnt need to you to be a perfectionist

Step 3: Screw the Screws :-)


Mark where you want to put the screws. It doesn’t need to be precise, just a guess. I try to be 1/2 " from the edges so I don’t  split the wood.
Put the screws through just enough to make the screw heads flush with the plywood. This is import because the screws should be more or less the same height sticking out of the wood or your drying piece will wobble. What I did was to invert the blocks and let them stand on the screws. Using my android app for a level, checked if the screws were all equal. Sand the entire project so that you don't get splinters.

Glue and use the finishing nails to keep the frame in place with the second piece of plywood. All the blocks should fit within the frame.
When storing invert the blocks so that the nails are faced down for safety

Check out some of the pictures on how I used the system. Enjoy!

Comments

author
Dacp283 (author)2013-12-28

pretty good idea but maybe grind down the screws so they don't inadvertently leave little dents in your projects. Not so important with the logs but may cause annoyances with other things. :)

author
xwania (author)Dacp2832013-12-31

Sorry, I thought I replied but Rich99 beat me to it. BTW my son said the same thing you did. I haven't seen any dents in my projects yet but I suppose if the project was heavy, you may see some. Most of my projects are not more than a kilogram and a combination of hard and soft wood. If you use heavy stuff, just put more supports to distribute the weight. Eitherways you shouldn't see any dents.

author
Rich99 (author)2013-12-31

xwania -- excellent idea photography and instructions.

sorry dacp283. if you file down the screws, you'll just get bigger (visible) dents. paint the bottoms first, and the set your workpiece GENTLY onto the screws. the paint the rest of it.

author
Rich99 (author)Rich992013-12-31

p.s. those are some good looking candle holders. did you use a forstner bit?

author
xwania (author)Rich992013-12-31

thanks. The candle holders were made from fallen limbs of a willow tree in the neighborhood. The holes were made with a 1 5/8 inch forstner bit which was perfect fit for the Ikea tea light candles. Willow is easy to drill. I tried with black locust limbs from my backyard and almost lost a finger :-)

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Bio: I like to use Instructables to be creative especially when there are destructive outside forces that are annoying me
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