The goal of this instructable is to teach you how to become a paintball sniper
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Signing UpStep 1: Getting a gun
To play paintball you have to have at least a gun, or in some cases, a rocket launcher.
I trust all readers will follow safty guidelines set by the owners of your local field.
You can use any gun to snipe, some just work better than others.
-Pump guns, like the WGP Sniper, are more accurate than semi-autos, but are hard to find and can get pricey
-Semi's, like a Model 98, are usually fairly accurate, they are easier to find and often cheaper, but not as accurate.
I trust all readers will follow safty guidelines set by the owners of your local field.
You can use any gun to snipe, some just work better than others.
-Pump guns, like the WGP Sniper, are more accurate than semi-autos, but are hard to find and can get pricey
-Semi's, like a Model 98, are usually fairly accurate, they are easier to find and often cheaper, but not as accurate.
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The looks on there faces when there hit is always funny its always a wtffffffffffffffff face. Again <3 trolling=Sniping
And there are to many variable to have a true paintball sniper. ie, wind and trajectory.
The only marker, "More accurate" than any other is a first strike equipped marker.
And that is only the paint.
A t9.1 with first strike rounds is.
Then can you shoot targets from concealed positions OR distances, which is the modern definition?
The answer to this question is the same as the other.
The answer is yes. I have done it.
1) Paintballs are filled with fluid. They have tiny bulges, and soft spots that can hinder accuracy. Check for soft spots first.
2) You need greater pressure to make a longer barrel more functional. Most fields will not let you exceed 300psi. That means you are SOL for longer range shots.
3) High pressure=loud noise. Loud noise means you will be heard, and then hosed. Make a good supressor, and keep it quiet. Sniping is all about stealth.
In my experience there are MANY factors to look into a barrel and all of these factors should be decided upon the kind of player you are.
Jesus, I do this all the time....Silly long informative posts. If you wanna skip like half of this rant....at least takethis.
Porting:
If you did not know already, air moves faster than the ball itself. This contrast of velocities between the air and the ball allow for inconsistent shots. Porting allows air to essentially escape bit by bit out of the barrel before the ball escapes the barrel itself, allowing for an accurate shot. However, In rainy or even just wet conditions ported barrels can make a mess of a shot.
Length:
Like PBstar (article above) said, Length DOES NOTHING other than reduce sound, but that's what our ILEGAL silencer is for :P. It also adds to the psyche that you can pin point shots better with a longer line of reference. So don't go playing "sniper" with an absurdly long barrel if possible.... (Sound vs. Profile)
Flatline:
This topic, although carld2002 has thoroughly discussed, is rather two-sided. Sure, the barrel allows for backspin, (and apparently some manufacturers offer bolts that pull the same effect). In my opinion, backspin is a very well patented gimmick as far as it is concerned in the sniper ring. Due to the fact that backspin requires less force to fire the ball, sure it allows for a consistant, and longer/accurate shot, but it also still means, that your ball is not moving straight. The flatline's backspin pattern offers a more upper arched trajectory.
Now, on an open field, this is the greatest thing since bacon (and I love bacon). But in the woods and other high foliage locations, backspin is almost like throwing the paintballs yourself. Due to the weaker velocity shot and the predisposition of the SPINNING ball, the second it starts hitting leaves, the ball will just start going everywhere.
CONCLUSION: Great idea, but never to be used in the woods. Open fielded paintball targets beware.
Apex:
I've only heard rumors and silly paintball stories about this barrel. The amazing ability to modify your trajectory with a click of the tip. I guess though I cannot really rip on the idea, just so long as it's end users have the knowledge of its proper tactical uses.
Type of barrel:
Over my years in paintball, I've tried, aluminum, ceramic, steel and carbon fiber barrels. And it is in this exact order do I swear to them (right being the best). I love Stiffi barrels, but there is a sense of responsibility to maintaining them. Otherwise. just look for the shiny barrel. Clean barrel means good shootin' times.
Lastly and most importantly:
PAINT TO BORE MATCHING:
You could have any barrel in the world, but without proper paint to bore matching, you will never have that edge of accuracy. Basically you wanna make sure that your paint itself fits well in the barrel, not too tight, and not so loose. This helps not only with better accuracy, but with better barrels, a good paint to bore match can clean your barrel up god forbid, you break paint in your gun. I'm not one to preach to get a full kit of freak bores or what not, but keep in mind the kind of paint you shoot. And yes, bores are fractionally different, but they do help and you can see the difference.
And my leaving thoughts for the rest of the sniper page:
- Phantoms and ADG mags have the best consistency by far due to their valves.
- A cheep 2000+ WGP cocker and a stock pump kit is the affordable, effective sniper choice
- Don't shun a pistol just because it's smaller, Sheridan PGP2 can shoot just as far as any other gun.
- And just like any other player MAINTAIN Fire discipline. Silencer or not, there are many ways your shot, can give away your location....take a shot you know will work. Otherwise, take another approach.
- Lastly, enjoy. A good sniper gets a good kick sniping a very confused mob. Snipers work wonders on the confidence of others.
P.S. If you so happen to be coming to Invasion of Normandy this weekend you can come meet me. I'll be the only "asian" in a kilt :P
(lolz to being 3 months late)