Introduction: Painting a New Version of the Games Workshop: Warrior of Minas Tirith
this inructable shows how to paint a new version of Games Workshops Warrior of Minas Tirith.
Step 1: Undercoating the Model
Take your model outside (or wherever you spray-paint your models) and give it a good coating of Chaos Black Spray(or just any flat black spray paint). After waiting the obligatory hour for the paint to dry (you can use this time to do whatever you like watch some television, tidy up the awful mess you?ll have made converting the models etc.) go back outside and fetch your guy. Touch up any areas the spray didnt reach with Chaos Black(the armpits and the Greenstuff mail usually need touching up on my models) and then your all ready to go.
Step 2: The First Drybrush
always begin models with areas that need drybrushed or overbrushed, as it is a pretty messy technique and is almost guaranteed to ruin any painting on the surrounding areas. On this model, that would be the chainmail. I have yet to come up with a revolutionary way of painting mail, so this stage is pretty basic.
First, drybrush on a coat of Boltgun Metal onto the mail. After this has dried, drybrush a lighter coat of Chainmail onto the model. Finally, and this is down to personal preference, water down black ink (and I mean really water it down, to about 1 part ink to 8 water) and apply this onto the mail too. Touch up any patches of the undercoat that you got silver onto, and you?re done.
Step 3: Painting Skin
After any drybrushing thats needed, I will always paint the skin. This is partially because it can be very hard to paint skin without getting it onto the helmet or hair, and partially because I really enjoy painting faces.Begin with a basecoat of Bestial Brown mixed with Dwarf Flesh (at a ratio of 1:1), to give the models skin a nice tone, and dont forget any areas of neck that you can see. This is then given a highlight of pure Dwarf Flesh, painted onto all but the deepest recesses (around the eyes and in the crease beneath the bottom lip, mainly.) Follow this up with a mix of 1 part Dwarf Flesh to 1 part Elf Flesh., and apply this to the higher points on the face - the lips, the cheeks and chin. To finish off the highlighting, give the highest points on the face (the chin, possibly the cheeks depending on the model) a very light touch of pure Elf Flesh. After this, you can leave it at that, or you can add one final layer. I added a wash of very dilute Flesh Wash (again at about 1:8 Flesh Wash to water) just to blend all of the highlights together. As I said with the wash on the mail, it is purely down to personal preference. sorry about the pic, so close all of the blotches in the plastic is seen.
Step 4: The Surcoat
The new surcoats you have modelled onto your models (that sounds really stupid!!) now cover the majority of the models, so rest easy in knowing that you?re nearly half way there. This is also one of the few stages I didn?t use an ink wash on, so rejoice in that. As well as being used on the surcoat, this is the colour used for the shield (if the model has one) and the scabbard/quiver.
Begin with a basecoat of approximately 2 parts Chaos Black to 1 part Skull White. Unfortunately, this is but an estimation as I mixed the paint colour many moons ago (about 8 months, I think, to use on my Imperial Guard, and lost the piece of paper I noted down the ratios on.) Leave Chaos Black in the deepest folds and creases on the model.
Next, mix an equal amount of Codex Grey into the original mix, and use this for the first highlight on the model, painting it onto almost every area you painted the basecoat, but leaving a small band of the original mix in the deeper creases.
Add in another equal amount of Codex Grey (making it 2 parts codex grey, 1 part original mix) and use this as the second highlight stage. Finally, using yet another equal amount, this time of Fortress Grey, lighten the colour and use this as the final highlight stage, painting it the highest ridges.
Step 5: Finally the Armor
Begin with a basecoat of Boltgun Metal, painted onto the whole of the metal. Highlight this with Chainmail, applied onto the higher areas of the model, leaving the Boltgun Metal showing the gaps in the armour on the shoulders, and in the recesses on the helmet and so on. A final highlight of Mithril Silver was used on the very highest points of the armour. To finish it off, wash it with the same mix used on the mail - 1 part Black Ink to 8 parts water
Step 6: Boots, Belts and Gloves.
A few small bits left to go.
The first of these are the gloves, belts and boots on your model. Both were given a basecoat of Scorched Brown (I did this particular model?s hair at the same time). The boots and gloves are then highlighted with a coat of Bestial Brown (as was this model?s hair) whilst the belt was highlighted with Dark Fles
Step 7: Finsishing Touches
only a few simple things needing finished, the last few painting tips are going to be grouped together.
The gold detailing on the Scabbard and the hilt and pommel on the sword were both painted at the same time. Simply basecoat the areas with Brazen Brass, and highlight it with Burnished Gold.
This truly is simplicity reincarnated. Paint the white tree motif Skull White. I?ve found that this works best if you use a small amount of paint and use the side of the brush to apply it. However, this is completely up to you.
Ok, I lied before. this is simplicity reincarnated. Using a fine detail brush, take a small dab of Mithril Silver, and then, well, dab it onto the rivets.
Some of your models may have a small piece of the underskirt showing between the mail, so that must also be covered here I guess. It?s really easy to do, a simple 2 stage highlighting procedure. Basecoat it with Codex Grey, and highlight that with Fortress Grey
Step 8: Base
All that is left for you to do is to base your model in your own chosen way. I choose to paint the top of the base Bestial Brown (nothing out of the ordinary there) and the rim Scorched Brown. I them glue on sand again nothing new and leave that to dry.
Once the base is dry, wash Brown Ink over the top of the sand. Once this too has dried, overbrush the base with Bestial Brown. To finish it off, I glue on patches of the ?spring mix? from Antenociti?s Workshop, sticking some static grass on top before the glue dries.
Step 9: Conclusion
Congrats! Youve now finished your first reborn Warrior of Minas Tirith. Sit back, relax for a while. Before long, you will have a good looking, well painted force of men with which to slaughter the armies of Mordor.