Introduction: Pallet Adirondack Chair
This chair came out supper comfy, not too difficult to put together. The chair is very sturdy, I weigh around 230lbs and the chair will hold me and my fiancee together.
Tools we used were:
Saws-all Table Saw Miter Saw Jig Saw and of course a drill
We used 1 5/8" inch deck screws for this project.
The entire chair is made from pallets.
2 Front Legs- 2x4, 26 1/2" long even cuts
2 Back Legs- 2x4, 35" long cut 30 degree cut on top
2 arms- 1x4, 36" long rounded cuts on end
2 side rails- 1x6, 37 1/4" long cut to pattern
1 top rail- 1x6, 23 1/4" long cut to pattern
1 bottom rail- 1x4, 23 1/4" long cut to pattern
8-9 seat slats- 1x2, 23 1/4" long even cuts
7 back slats- 1x4, 35 1/2" long cut to pattern
2 supports- 1x4, 6 1/2" long cut to pattern
Step 1: Find Some Pallets
Not hard to do, tire shops, and mechanic shops usually have some good solid pallets.There are many different ways to break down the pallets. The easiest way I have found is with a saws-all, and cut the nails between the 2x4s and the boards.
Step 2: Cut Your Legs.
So next is to select the best boards. Most of the boards you use will be 1x but for the front and back legs you'll want to use the closest you can find to 2x4. Using pallets you probably won't find exact sizes.
The front legs are a simple cut 26 1/2" long. straightest boards you can find obviously.
The back legs will be cut 35" long with a 30 degree angle on the top end.
Step 3: Sides of the Chair.
This is where it gets a little bit more difficult. The side rail for the chair is a 1x6, 37 1/4" long. The dip in the front is 1" at the lowest point, and from front of the dip to the back is a total of 17 3/4". The lip between the dips is 3 1/2" long. The slope to the rear drops 1 1/2". I apologize for my home made blue print. but hope it helps.
Step 4: Cut Your Top and Bottom Rails.
These cuts are pretty simple.
Top rail is 22 1/4" long, 4 1/2" wide. The dip is from corner to corner, the thickness in the center will be about 2 3/4"
bottom rail is 22 1/4" long, 3 1/2" wide. the dip will be from 1 1/2" in from the corner to 1 1/2" in from the other corner.
thickness in center will be about 2 1/8. ( honestly for these dips i measured my center point, and the thickness and drew a curve pattern by hand)
Step 5: Cut Your Seat Slats.
Probably the easiest cut you'll make. simple 1x, cut 23 1/4" long and 2" wide. You'll need about 8 of these.
Step 6: Cut Your Back Slats
These are a little more difficult to cut. They are 35 1/2" at the longest center slat. They taper down form 3 1/4" wide at the top to 2 1/4" at the bottom. Once you have these cut line them up with the bottoms even, and you can cut a rounded pattern at the top. (Again we basically just free handed a curved pattern at the top.)
Step 7: Now Build the Frame
Simple work now. Attach one of the seat slats to the 2 side frames. And attach the bottom rail on the rise of the side rails.
Make sure the 30 degree slope of the back legs, are turned so the high side is to the front. The side rails will attach to the OUTSIDE of the back legs at 6" off the ground, the 10 degree angle at the back of the side rails should be level with the ground. (this will give the chair the comfortable slope)
The side rails should attach to the INSIDE of the front legs at about 12" off the ground.
Now attach the top rail, this will also help to square off the frame.
now attach the back slats. it's easier to start with the center slat, then one of the outer slats working your way in. try to make sure your gaps are about the same. because of how thin the boards are it helps to drill pilot holes before screwing the boards in.
Step 9: Mount the Seat Slats
Again it is important that you drill pilot holes on these boards so they don't crack. Try to keep your gap even, and screw the boards into place.
Step 10: Almost Done
The arm is a basic design, 36" overall, rounded at the end. I did build a small support to attach to the outside of the back legs to help support and level the arm rest.