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Picture of Pallet Adirondack Chair
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Here's a fun way to reuse wood.  Make this Adirondack chair from shipping pallets or other reclaimed lumber. 



 
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Step 1: The low-down on pallets

Picture of The low-down on pallets

Pallets come in many shapes and styles.  They're made from lots of different types of wood.  They are readily available for free.

In fact, most companies pay people to take them away.

But there's a catch: pallets aren't easy to take apart.  They're also usually not made of very good lumber. If you use them for projects, you're going to spend A LOT of time dismantling them and you're not going to get much from a single pallet.

If you're expecting perfection, than pallet lumber may not be right for you.  You can try salvaging used material from places like craigslist.  I collected an impressive amount of wood for my other pallet instructable, the Pallet Playhouse.

If you're not interested in turning a pallet into something else or trucking around the nation looking for free stuff, substitute the pallet wood for some nice cedar or pressure treated wood.  I made a PT set in a similar pattern that's held up for 11+ years of direct exposure to the elements.  They're still perfectly sound.  You won't get that kind of performance from pallet wood. 

Step 2: What to look for

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I get my pallets from my employer.  They throw them away, into a dumpster if I don't get to them first.  They pay to have the dumpster emptied, of course, so they're more than happy to give me as many as I want.

Only about one in ten of the pallets I came across were the kind I wanted.   I tried to find ones that were brand-new, roughly 48" x 35", and were constructed of  (3) notched 2'x4's connected by 3/4" inch nominal boards (commonly called "one by" lumber.)  Usually, one side is rough sawn and the other is finished.  All of them were heat treated (marked "HT") and held together by nearly indestructible spiral nails.

After I posted my first pallet project to Instructables, a lot of people commented about the dangers of pesticide-treated pallets.  For the record:  I only use ISPM 15 certified pallets.  That means that the pallets are inspected, and certified to be either heat-treated (marked HT) or fumigated with Methyl Bromide (marked BM).  It also states that the pallet must be marked with either the HT or MB stamps.

I only use new, HT-marked pallets that were used solely to ship paper.  I would not recommend using any pallet that is not plainly marked, but then again, it's a free country.

Step 3: Where to look for them

Picture of Where to look for them

Pallets are everywhere.  As I mentioned, I get mine from my workplace, but thousands of other businesses are constantly looking for someone to take them away.  I've gotten them from supermarkets,  restaurants, and office buildings.  I've had a number of people recommend carpet companies, furniture stores or outlets, and atv/snowmobile dealers. 

I also see them up on craigslist all the time.

Step 4: Be careful!

Picture of Be careful!

Working with power tools is dangerous, doubly so when working with pallets.  There are hidden nails, knots, warped boards, etc.  Use proper safety equipment, especially eye protection.  Don't use a power tool unless you're familiar with it. 

You could very easily get hurt, so proceed at your own risk.

Step 5: Tools you'll need

Picture of Tools you'll need
Tools/material you need, at minimum:

1) Hammer
2) Crowbar/prybar
3) Drill (cordless is best, but even a hand drill will work)
4) Small bit for pilot holds (size depends on the screws you use)
5) 3/8" Spade or forstner bit for counter sinks
6) A saw of some sort-- I wouldn't try this without a circular saw, but hand saws would work..  A jig saw, band saw, and table saw would all help, too.
7) Some sort of screw driver for your screws.  Power drills work best
8) Wood glue
9) Screws
10) Wood putty
11) 3-4 good pallets

Step 6: How to break them down

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I experimented with different methods, but I finally settled on this particular method of disassembling the pallets.

This is how I do it:

I start by cutting off the outside stringers (the 2x4's) with a skill saw. Watch out for nails!

Draw a straight line on each side as a guide to cut off the outside stringers.  A chalk line works well.

You'll want to set your depth at a fraction more than the 3/4 inch board.

After you cut along each outside stringer (not the middle!), flip the pallet over and do the same on the other side.

WARNING:  Pallets are usually made of the lumber that got rejected for other uses.  It's hard, often warped, has old broken nails embedded in it, and generally is just a pain to work with.  Be careful. Wear goggles. Repetitive work breeds carelessness.  Trust me, I know.

Some other methods:

--Cut the nails with a sawzall.

--Use a pneumatic chisel

--Use a catspaw to dig the nails out (for certain pallets, this is easy.  For some, it's darn near impossible.)

Step 7: How to break them down, continued.

Picture of How to break them down, continued.

Use a hammer to knock the stinger off if it's stubborn.

Step 8: Detach the board from the middle stringer.

Picture of Detach the board from the middle stringer.

You'll be left with a bunch of 1X4's and 1X6's attached to the 2x4 in the center.

By rocking the 1x4's and the 1x6's back and forth, you can get the board off without totally destroying it.

There will still be quite a few ruined boards.  Good for the woodstove.

Pull or remove any nails left in the board and stack it to the side.  You may also want to grade your boards, based on knots, warping, bark, etc.  This will help later when you try to decide what to use for what job.

Step 9: The payoff

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I usually get about (6) good 1x4's and (3) good 1x6's per pallet.  I also get a (3) 4' lengths of 2x4.

.

Step 10: Measure and mark the rear legs/seat stringers

Picture of Measure and mark the rear legs/seat stringers

Using a 35" 1x6, draw a grid of one inch blocks like the picture below.  Keep in mind that the lumber is only 5.5" wide.  you''ll end up with a course of 1/2" blocks at the top.

Using the blocks, one at a time, draw the pattern. 

You'll need two and you can use the first to trace out the second. 

REMEMBER!  If one side of the board is better than the other, to cut accordingly.  In other words, the stringers should be mirror (opposite) copies.  Pallet wood usually has both a smooth and a rough side.



Step 11: Measure and mark the arm rests

Picture of Measure and mark the arm rests

Using a 32" 1x6, draw a grid of one inch blocks like the picture below.  Keep in mind that the lumber is only 5.5" wide.  you''ll end up with a course of 1/2" blocks at the top.

Using the blocks, one at a time, draw the pattern. 

You'll need two and you can use the first to trace out the second. 

REMEMBER!  If one side of the board is better than the other, to cut accordingly.  In other words, the armrests should be mirror (opposite) copies.  Pallet wood usually has both a smooth and a rough side.

Step 12: Measure and mark bottom backrest rail

Picture of Measure and mark bottom backrest rail

Using a 21.5" 1x4, draw a grid of one inch blocks like the picture below.  Keep in mind that the lumber is only 3.5" wide.  you''ll end up with a course of 1/2" blocks at the top.

Using the blocks, one at a time, draw the pattern. 

Step 13: Measure and mark top backrest rail

Picture of Measure and mark top backrest rail

Using a 22" 1x4, draw a grid of one inch blocks like the picture below.  Keep in mind that the lumber is only 3.5" wide.  you''ll end up with a course of 1/2" blocks at the top.

Using the blocks, one at a time, draw the pattern. 

Step 14: Measure and mark armrest brackets.

Picture of Measure and mark armrest brackets.
Cut out (2) armrest brackets.  Use the measurements below.

Step 15: Cut out the top and bottom brackets, rear legs/seat stringers, armrest brackets, and the armrests

Picture of Cut out the top and bottom brackets, rear legs/seat stringers, armrest brackets, and the armrests

Using your jigsaw (or a bandsaw if you have one), cut out each of the pieces.

You'll want to make sure you clamp them down securely. 

For the rear leg/seat stringers and the armrests, you'll need two each.  You can trace the first one after you cut it out to avoid having to draw the one inch grids again.

Step 16: Measure and cut the front legs/front crosspiece/front seat slat

Picture of Measure and cut the front legs/front crosspiece/front seat slat

You'll need (4) 20" x 3.5" boards for (2) front legs, (1) front crosspiece, and (1) front seat slat.  You can cut these with a handsaw, a table saw, a circular saw-- whatever you have.

You'll save yourself a lot of heartache if you remember to label these pieces.  Use a pencil to write "front leg" on two of them and "front cross" on the third, etc.  Make it small-- you'll be finishing the chair later and the pencil marks will probably show through.

Step 17: Cut rear crosspiece

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Cut (1) 18.5" x 3.5"  rear crosspiece.

Step 18: Measure and cut the rear back support

Picture of Measure and cut the rear back support

You'll need (2) rear back supports.

Get a 1x4 and measure 26" on one side, 23" on the other.  Draw a line between the two and cut.

Step 19: Cut (9) 1.75" seat slats

Picture of Cut (9) 1.75
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Rip a 3.5" inch board down the middle to get (2) 1.75" seat slats.  Cut the length to 20".

Drill pilot holes and countersink on each end of the slat.  The pilot hole should be with 3/4" of the slat's end. In practice, you can simply "eye it" so that you get as close to the edge as possible without allowing the countersink hole to ruin the board.

You'll need (9) slats.

Step 20: Measure and cut the chair back slats

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You'll need (7) chair back slats.  These are tapered cuts.  I made a simple (yet dangerous) taper jig out a sheet of masonite and a few smaller pieces of wood.

You can simply mark the board from the measurements below and use a circular saw to rip the taper.

I marked the length approximately; this is a good place to use some of your less than perfect boards.  Anywhere from 34"-36" should do fine.  As you'll see later, we're going to trim the tops to make the fan shape at the top of the chair.

Step 21: Cut the fan tail

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To cut the fan tail, lay the back slats together like in the picture shown.  Use a board to line up the bottom edge.

Step 22: Cut the fantail, continued.

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Tie a pencil to a couple of feet of string (or use a ring at the end of the string like I did.)

Use your thumb to hold one end of the string in the middle of the center board at the bottom.  Use the pencil to etch an arc into the top edge of the boards.  Obviously, if your boards are different lengths, use the shorter ones at the edge and the bigger ones in the center.

After you draw the arc, number the boards with a pencil so you know what order they go into later.

Step 23: Cut the fantail, continued.

Picture of Cut the fantail, continued.
Use your jigsaw to trim off the end of the boards.

Step 24: The end result

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You should end up with something like this. 

Step 25: Let's assemble this thing already!

The moment you've been waiting for.  Let's put it together.



Step 26: Connect front leg, rear back support, and seat stringer

Picture of Connect front leg, rear back support, and seat stringer
On a flat surface, arrange the front leg, rear back support, and seat stringer as shown.

Remember,  if your boards are smooth on one side and rough on the other, male sure the "good" side is facing out.  In this picture, you're looking at the rough side, ie, the "inside".

PLEASE NOTE: The front leg is UNDER the seat stringer.  The back support is OVER the seat stringer.

Use a board or the table edge to line up the pieces on the bottom.  Measure the distance between the front leg and the rear back support on top and the bottom to make sure it's reasonably straight.  Mark the leg and support locations with a pencil.

Part of the fun of using pallet wood is all the little adjustments you have to make to account for warped wood, etc.  Enjoy!  :-)

Step 27: Drill pilot holes, countersink, then attach the front leg.

Picture of Drill pilot holes, countersink, then attach the front leg.
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Drill two staggered pilot holes through the top piece and halfway through the lower board.  Use the 3/8" bit to countersink the holes.  Spread a generous amount of glue between the two pieces and attach with 1" wood screws.

Tip:  Sometimes pallet wood is especially soft.  Set the drill's torque as low as possible to avoid stripping out the pilot hole.

Step 28: Drill pilot holes, countersink, then attach the rear back support.

Picture of Drill pilot holes, countersink, then attach the rear back support.
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Don't forget the glue.  Make sure that the back support is evenly spaced (about 21") from both the top of the front leg and the bottom.

I've seen similar designs that incorporate a carriage bolt, washer, and a nut here, instead of two screws.  Definitely a stronger way to go!

Step 29: Assemble the opposite seat stringer/frontleg/backrest support

Picture of Assemble the opposite seat stringer/frontleg/backrest support
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Place your finished seat stringer/frontleg/backrest support flat on your workspace.  Use it to line up the opposite assembly.  Remember, these should be a mirror image (opposite).

Mark board locations, drill, countersink, glue and screw.

Step 30: Connect rear crosspiece.

Picture of Connect rear crosspiece.
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Take your (1) 18.5" x 3.5" rear crosspiece and attach it to the seat stringer/rear back support as shown in the photo.

Measure one inch from the top of the seat stringer so you'll know where to attach it on the other side.  Don't forget to drill, countersink, and glue.  You may want to mark and trace where you want your screw holes (see picture 2 & 3)

Step 31: Connect rear crosspiece, continued.

Picture of Connect rear crosspiece, continued.
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Mark and measure your other front leg, seat stringer, and back support to attach the rear crosspiece.

Try to connect it in precisely the same spot as you did on the other side. 

Did I mention not to forget the glue?

Step 32: Connect front crosspiece

Picture of Connect front crosspiece
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Connecting the front crosspiece is easier thean the rear one.  Mark and measure the center of each front leg beneath the seat stringer.  Hold the crosspiece up so it touches the seat stringer and attach to the front leg with glue and screws.

Step 33: Connect the bottom backrest rail

Picture of Connect the bottom backrest rail
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You cut two backrest rails earlier.  One is square the other is rounded. The bottom backrest rail is squarish.

Take the bottom backrest rail and lay it into the two grooves cut into the seat stringers.  Drill pilot holes, countersink, then glue into position.  Use (4) 1-inch wood screws.



Step 34: Connect the top backrest rail

Picture of Connect the top backrest rail
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Take the rounded, top back rest rail and mark it 2.5" from either side. The distance from each of your sides should be 18.5".  Drill and countersink two holes on each side at you marks.

Position the backrest rail over the rear back supports and attach with glue and screws. 

You may have to squeeze the rear back supports gently together to get them plumb.

Step 35: Attach armrest brackets

Picture of Attach armrest brackets
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Measure and mark the center line of the top of the front leg.  Drill pilot holes, countersink, and attack the armrest brackets.   Make sure the top edge of the bracket is level with the top edge of the front leg. Repeat on the other side.

Step 36: Attach the 20" front seat slat

Picture of Attach the 20
Glue and screw on the front seat slat.  Drill pilot holes and countersink.

Step 37: Attach center backrest slat

Picture of Attach center backrest slat
Find and mark the center of the top and bottom back rail.

Drill and countersink a hole on the bottom of the slat, then attach to the bottom back rail.  Line up the top slat/rail, drill, countersink, and attach.

I would not use glue on the backslats-- you may want to move/adjust them later.

Step 38: Attach the edge back slats

Picture of Attach the edge back slats
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Attach the first and seventh back slats to the bottom back rail.  You'll want to dry-fit the two armrests before you attach the back slats so you know you're leaving enough room to attach them.

After you connect the bottom of each slat, attach the top.

Step 39: Attach the remaining back slats

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Attach the remaining slats in the same manner, spacing as evenly as possible.

Step 40: Attach the (9) seat slats.

Picture of Attach the (9) seat slats.
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You'll want to dry fit all the slats first so you have an idea of how to space them.

This is a time consuming part.  You'll want to be really careful drilling the pilot holes into the seat stringer.  Be patient!  You don't want to blow it now.

Step 41: Route the edges of the armrests

Picture of Route the edges of the armrests
The end is in sight!

If you've got the means, I definitely recommend routing the edges of the armrests.

If not, you can skip to the next step.


Step 42: Attach the armrests

Picture of Attach the armrests
Measure and mark 20" from the bottom of the rear back support.

Step 43: Attach the armrests, continued

Picture of Attach the armrests, continued
Move the armrest into position.  The 20" mark should line up with the bottom edge of the armrest.

Use a screw to tack the armrest in place, or prop it up, or clamp it, whatever.  Just keep it in place.

Step 44: Attach the armrests, continued

Picture of Attach the armrests, continued
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Drill three pilot holes through the armrest and into the front leg and armrest bracket.  See the second picture for the pattern.  Countersink the pilot holes and fasten with screws.

Step 45: Attach the armrest, continued

Picture of Attach the armrest, continued
To attach the rear part of the armrest, drill two pilot holes and countersink.   Attach with two 1.25" screws.

I've seen similar designs that incorporate a carriage bolt, washer, and nut here, instead of two screws.  Definitely a stronger way to go!

Step 46: Time to finish

Picture of Time to finish
Grab your wood putty and get to work.  Fill all the holes you can.

I like to wipe off the residual putty with a wet cloth while it's fresh.  Sanding it off can be a real pain and also ruin the way your stain or paint looks.

Then get to work sanding it down.  At the minimum, you'll need to lightly sand off the shiny glaze to allow stain penetration or paint adhesion.

I like to use a dark, semi-transparent exterior stain on this sort of thing.  It hides a lot of imperfections in the wood.  Of course, if you buy a nice cedar, you could get much better results.



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kingamongmen made it!2 months ago

The first one (varnished in the pic, and nighttime pic) was like a beta test, then the 2nd one was better and hopefully all future ones will be even better. I'm hoping to have 4 to go around a backyard brick fire pit.

Thanks for posting this, its a great project to spruce up the back deck/yard!

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Alex andra2 months ago
Thank you ! Great & clearly explaination. I like it. I'll try. ;)
Emadshaaban3 months ago
It wasn't perfect but I liked it ..it was not so hard to be built.Emad Libya
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bulldawg135 months ago
How much wood would I need if I would buy the wood
Squash bulldawg133 months ago
Probably the same amount the woodchuck needs. ;)
theway20041 year ago
Is all of this clicking through needed? Could warnings not come all on one page, and the "where you get them thin, did that need to be spread out over a couple? I just Want to get to the directions! Start with the warnings on one page, then the where to get the next then start into the task

Please stop whining.Just be happy he made the instructable!

Directly under the title you will find 4 buttons. Download, View All Steps, Go To Step and Next. The view all steps will show you the full instruction all on one page. The download is also great if you would like to save the instructions for offline viewing. (These options may only be available if you are logged in.)

kcook19571 year ago
I take the pallets apart by cutting between the 2X4 and the board with a sawzall and a blade that will cut through nails. Then I use a punch from the back side to push the nails out. This saves splitting the wood and results in the most usable lumber in the fastest time.
mortagaz2 years ago
Thanks for sharing.
I will be shrinking it down and making one for my 2 year old this afternoon.

Thanks again!
great explanation great chair i found a saw that may help in taking pallets apart quicker and with less waste
its called a demolition saw you can cut though the gap between the planks and the blocks to cut the nails (i hammered the left overs later)
thanks for a great description
Seems the pics didn't load, I'll try again.
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jkratman (author)  skirmishmonkey2 years ago
Beautiful!
Thanks, and thanks to you for the great easy to follow 'ible.
Another angle.
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Great instructible. I needed a chair so I could relax with a nice cold beer up on the rooftop space after messing about in my 'workshop'. I had some pallet wood and this gave me an idea. Anyway, here is a pic of the completed project (with a few minor tweaks - rounded over the seat slats and back slats and gave the arms more of a curve). The only problem, is, the wife and my daughter saw it and now want me to build one for each of them.
I also made full sized cardboard templates first which helped, but will now make 1/4" plywood so I can make exact replicas.
Another tip for filling in the holes and cracks / finishing in reclaimed wood - instead of wood putty, I mix sawdust (collected from the dust bag of the sander) with wood glue. It dries to the exact colour of the piece.
woodwarrior2 years ago
Great work, very well explained!! I´m going to try it!! With your explanation I see it easy, I think that the most difficult is to pass inch to centimetres :D.
Regards from spain.
allteal3 years ago
What size screws?
Depends on how thick your boards are.
For 1" boards use 1/4" by 1 5/8"
For 3/4" boards use 1/4" by 1 1/4"
paganwonder2 years ago
I have used this pattern for many Adirondack chairs and it is exceptionally comfortable...highly recommended. When I breakdown pallets if the ends are cracked I tend to just cut them off prior to prying the center loose. I also tend to wait until the wood is dry and cold...
mscharf4 years ago
A great place that I have found to salvage wood is in trashed box springs. I have found the the best place to find them is around apartment buildings and even more so around college dorms. due the high turnover rate of occupants. The wood is generally strong and in pretty good condition.
I agree with Achilles...based on what I know because I am a nurse I would have to find a way to treat box spring wood before I could use it...but as a nurse I am squeamish about things normal people aren't bothered by...all of that being said- the wood found in side upholstered furniture is generally very good quality, despite being rough on the surface.
Watch out for bed bugs however! those little buggers can hide anywhere, and once you've got them they aren't leaving.

A lot of mattresses/box springs may have been left out for a reason.

Great idea... just be careful
On this step I found it easier to copy the image into Excel. I cropped the image to include just the board than re-sized it using the ruler. You can also re-size the image by double clicking the picture and a format tab will appear at the top of the page. In the upper right corner you can type in the dimensions you want for the height and width. After this I copied it into paint and whited out most of the board color (to save ink when I print). I saved it as a JPEG formatted picture to my desktop. Then in Excel I inserted the picture. Resize again.

Even with margins at 0" you can only print 7.5" x 10" on 8.5" x 11". So set the margins at 0" all around. Orient the page to 'landscape'. Then I copy and pasted 3 of the same pictures stacked on top of each other, not overlapping. Then in page layout view cropped the first picture to just be on the first page horizontally. The second image down on the second page horizontally. The third image on the third page horizontally. And the fourth image on the fourth page horizontally.

Then I stacked the images all on one page to save paper. Print it and cut it out. Attach to board and voila!
I use a 24" pry-bar with a wedge on one end and a claw on the other.

**IMPORTANT**

Start with the middle 2" x 4" support when prying and then do the outer ones.

With the wedge I pry the board up a little (about a half inch) than stomp the board back down. This will force the nail head (not always on softer wood) to pop up above the board. Then it can be removed. If it doesn't pop up, I pry the board so that the nails come up with the board, making sure to do the middle support beam of the board first.

An advantage to cutting the boards off is that you may save time and get rid of the parts of the board that are holy.
wulfhardt3 years ago
This is a great instructable, thanks for uploading all this good info and clear pictures.

The only changes I made are in how I took apart the pallets and the width of the chair. I used a reciprocating saw with a bimetal/demolition blade to simply cut through the pallet nails, then used a nail & hammer to tap the nail stubs out of each board. I did this because I used heavy-duty pallets with five stringers through them, making it nearly impossible to rock the boards back and forth like you would with a three-stringer pallet.

The chair itself is very comfortable. I sit in it and just don't want to get up. But I'm a big fat dude, so I wanted a little more room to spread out. So I went back and added 8 inches to the width, and the final product is ideal for my size.
rx7ja19893 years ago
Thank you very much for your instructable. It was clear and detailed, making it easy to follow, especially the templates for each piece of this great puzzle.
I have little woodworking experience and the pictures help tremendously.
I just finished assembling my chair, no I just need to sand and apply some polyurethane.

Thanks again.
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jkratman (author)  rx7ja19893 years ago
Hey, nice work! Glad you liked the instructable.
We got two pallets free from out neighbor the other day and the next day I work up and thought you know what Im going to use those to make my dad an Adirondack chair for fathers day. After a quick google from plans I found yours and I was luckily enough to have a few days back to back to work on it and I now have a rock solid chair thanks to your great instructable! Im 99% sure I had seen this before and thats why I was inspired to build it. Anyways thanks for the great post my dad is going to love it!
Twotim2215 years ago
Nice chair. I like to make things out of pallets too-recently I made hanging chair out of a pallet and made an instructable about it. Some people commented to me that pallet wood is treated and can be bad for your health to work with. Have you heard anything like this? Someone even said that you shouldn't  touch it.
The pressure treatment that is given to wood that you can buy at your big box stores these days are not as unhealthy as it has been in the past. The arsnic based treatment has been changed to a copper based one that does not contain carcinogens although you still don't want to burn it.
jkratman (author)  Twotim2215 years ago
I saw your chair, it's pretty awesome.

Take a look at step 2 of this instructable-- I talk a bit about pallet treatment, etc.

I'd say if you use common sense, you'll be fine.  I wouldn't want to handle MetylBromide treated pallets, but they should be clearly marked as such.

Use a speed square for your saw guide. 
The cut will be Square to the wood plank every time.
Excellent suggestion!

I was just mulling over how best to get square cuts without too much messing about when I just want the pallet to come apart. I doubt I'd have thought of using a speed square, but if I'm not mistaken I've got one buried in the garage somewhere. You just saved me a huge amount of time.

Thanks.

:)
gonzaloleal4 years ago
very good

Roughly how many pallets do you use per chair?

Thanks for the great project!

jkratman (author)  no1sangel19785 years ago
It really depends on what condition the pallets are in.  If every board were perfect, it would only be one or two.

Usually, though, 50% of the boards are unusable.

Figure 4-5 pallets.

Good luck!
Want longer planks?

Sometimes there is enough room  to use a reciprocating (sawzall) saw and cut the nails between the two pieces of wood.

 If not I use a breaker block, which is a scrap 2x4 with a 45 angle on it.

  Place the block on the backside of the plank, angle the point toward the nail Head; hit it  a few times to free up a gap.

The blade is thin so you can work it in with minimal damage. 

 You can cut all the nails this way even the center support. 
This will give longer planks to work with. 

If you don’t want the nail heads, just use a punch (old nail) tap the heads up and pull them out.


Note, I use junk old blades. 

digimancer5 years ago
 This is a pretty cool idea. I work in shipping and have access to tons of free pallets. I think i'm gonna grab a few every week and bring them home to stockpile up some scrap wood for this. I'm also gonna try to under engineer this a bit to see if I can reduce the need for jig saw cuts and use my chop saw and sander more. 
jkratman (author)  digimancer5 years ago
Thanks!

You could certainly use the chop saw for the armrest supports.

The major pieces for the jigsaw are the armrests, the top and bottom seat rest brackets, and the seat stringer.  You might be able to do something with the seat stringer, but I'm stumped on the rest of it.

The jigsaw isn't my favorite tool.  Wish I had a bandsaw.

Good luck.  I'd love to see how it works out.
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