Special thanks to LVL1 Hackerspace (www.lvl1.org) for use of their laser cutter!
Raspberry Pi is a trademark of the Raspberry Pi Foundation.
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Signing UpStep 1: Parts List
Next, you will need an SD card with a Raspbian Wheezy image. Instructions for this process found at: http://elinux.org/RPi_Easy_SD_Card_Setup
Electrical hardware needed:
1) Solderless breadboard (and wire)
2) Serial LCD module (3.3V module from Sparkfun was used: www.sparkfun.com/products/9067)
3) Ethernet Cable
4) USB Keyboard and mouse (necessary for setup, not the final product)
5) Pushbuttons (6) - "Normally Open" type with threaded mounts
6) 3.3V Regulator (LM1117T-3.3 from Texas Instruments in the TO-220 package type used here)
7) Resistors: (7) ~10kOhm, (6) 1 kOhm
8) Capacitors: (2) 10 uF tantalum (as recommended by TI for 3.3V regulator
9) Pi T-Cobbler from Adafruit (not necessary, but makes GPIO access much easier)
10) Auxiliary audio cable
Other equipment needed:
1) Soldering Iron and solder (for the T-Cobbler breakout board)
2) 1-Minute Epoxy (for the acrylic case)
3) Acrylic (and a means of cutting it)
4) Nylon Standoffs and Screws
5) Velcro strips (with sticky sides)
The acrylic used in this project was 0.08" thick and can be found at Lowe's in 8"x10" sheets. This was great for cutting with a laser-cutter. Other thicknesses can probably be used - this will be left up to your discretion (and experience).
The standoffs used were a combination of (3/8" - hex - 1.25" - 4-40 thread) and (3/8" - hex - 0.375" - 4-40 thread) nylon male/female standoffs. 4-40 fillister flat head nylon screws were used with these standoffs.
Although this Instructable includes directions for the custom case, this is probably the trickiest part of the design. Familiarity with a laser-cutter is necessary, since every laser cutter and design software package is different.










































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Raspberry Pi: $35 + shipping
Power Supply: $8 + shipping
T-Cobbler: $8 + shipping
Serial LCD Monitor: $25 + shipping
Buttons: $7
Acrylic Sheets: $8
Epoxy: $5
Capacitors: $2
Velcro: $5
The small things tended to add up quickly - like the bits I had to get from Radioshack and Lowes (buttons, capacitors, velcro, etc). I probably could have gotten some things much cheaper online, but I didn't have the patience to wait for the velcro to ship. All the parts were around $110 with shipping - but since I plan on reusing most of the stuff for future projects, the cost felt reasonable.
Hope that helps.
While LCD may never draw that full 60 mA, it has the potential to cause issues. Since the 5V supply can supply over 300 mA (when using a 1A power supply), I chose to add the 3.3V regulator.
RPi electrical specs: http://elinux.org/RPi_Low-level_peripherals
http://www.adafruit.com/products/1109
Wrt the first step, I initially had some problems freeing up my RPi's UART. This website helped explain the editing of the cmdline.txt file for me.
http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/raspberry-pi-serial-port
Also, if you are having the "TLS handshake error", you can verify that you have the proper fingerprint by running the following in your cmd prompt. (from Jacob Roeland's "pidora" tutorial, https://github.com/jacroe/pidora)
fingerprint=`openssl s_client -connect tuner.pandora.com:443 < /dev/null 2> /dev/null | openssl x509 -noout -fingerprint | tr -d ':' | cut -d'=' -f2` && echo tls_fingerprint = $fingerprint >> ~/.config/pianobar/config
I'm a little new to this, but why do you need a raspberry pi for this to work? If your gadget is connected to the computer which is running pianobar couldn't each button correspond to a command like button one corresponds to 'n' and then send that through serial to the computer and use fifo to then send that information to pianobar to be executed? Better stated, can you briefly explain how the internet connection is working with pianobar?
First, the autostart script isn't working for me. Seems pretty straightforward, not sure what the issue is. Any ideas?
Second, my GPIO pins aren't responding. Have others had trouble here? Any updates to the design? Please let me know, and thanks again!
Thanks for the response! I got them both figured out, thought I'd pass along the knowledge in case newbies like me can't figure it out:
GPIO pins not working: You're right, the RPi has pullup resistors, but you have to turn them on! Add this code to the ButtonPiper.h file:
gpio -g mode 2 up
gpio -g mode 3 up
gpio -g mode 4 up
gpio -g mode 17 up
gpio -g mode 27 up
gpio -g mode 22 up
Add them right after the code that says
gpio -g mode 2 in
gpio -g mode 3 in
gpio -g mode 4 in
gpio -g mode 17 in
gpio -g mode 27 in
gpio -g mode 22 in
That should fix it - or just add the pullup resistors you originally showed.
Second problem, autostart not working:
at least for me, you have to add @ to the front of the text in the tutorial!
@pianobar
@bash /home/pi/.config/pianobar/scripts/PandorasBox.sh
Also, for me I actually need to use ButtonPiper.sh, not PandorasBox.sh. Not sure why?
I'm now having trouble where it turns Pianobar on either twice or not at all... but I'm working on it!
Pianobar runs fine when I SSH into the RPi but asks for login information when I try to run it automatically at startup. Which would be fine if i weren't running it headless.
Also, I can not get Pianobar to output to the LCD screen, or the buttons to work. The test script outputs correctly, so I have *some* connectivity.
Help?
http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=33508&hilit=pianobar
It helped a whole bunch. I followed the directions precisely, and when I had an error, I tried running as the other user (between root and pi). Also, I set the permissions on the folders for read and write for all users. Not sure if that alone helped, but it made me feel better.
http://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-nfc-rfid-on-raspberry-pi/freeing-uart-on-the-pi
And change:
dwc_otg.lpm_enable=0 console=ttyAMA0,115200 kgdboc=ttyAMA0,115200 console=tty1 $
to:
dwc_otg.lpm_enable=0 console=tty1 $
Doing this causes my RPi not to boot. I can't ssh with a console cable, it's just dead. Get all kinds of error msgs from the monitor on the composite video output but I don't know how to let you see those. Running the latest whezzy.
This is the second time I hosed this up. The first time I thought I fat-fingered something. This time I triple checked the change and it still caused the RPi not to boot. Guess I'll flash another SD and leave the LCD off this project for now.
Solved: (kind of)
Used a HDMI to VGA adapter I bought from Adafruit that also has stereo output. As a newbie to RPI I thought I needed a VGA monitor. After getting VNC figured out via the Chrome add-on, running the RPI headless is much better.
But I couldn't get the adapter to work with my VGA monitor and wanted to return it (glad Adafruit RMA dept must be overworked) and glad I still had it. Yes it did add $21 but well worth getting rid of the click, pop, click!
Changing TLS_Fingerprint to: "tls_fingerprint = 2D0AFDAFA16F4B5C0A43F3CB1D4752F9535507C0"
but i'm getting an eventcmd error that (No such file or directory)
but what i have to do to fix it? haven't got any clue.
2.Don't we have to use a cooling fan and heat sinks to reduce heat?
3.Does heat reduce the functioning of this "Pandora's Box"?
I'm a begging to this subject!! please help!!
Nice project. I have a few questions however.
I am new to electronics but play a lot with my Pi therefore I thought I'd expand and give this a try. My question is regarding the voltage of the resistors and capacitors. I have 10k 1/4w resistors and 10uF 6.3V capacitors. Are these OK or do I require something else? Thanks in advance.