Step 9: Custom Box Design

A nice custom box is a great way to finish any project! Unfortunately, fabricating custom boxes is no cake walk. Plans for the box are attached, however should only be used as a general basis for your work. Verify the measurements (and puzzled edges) before starting the laser.

Note: The images attached are not to scale. They give dimensions for a box made from 0.25" acrylic. After a trip to Lowe's, I decided to use 0.08" acrylic instead, so the dimensions were adjusted accordingly when sent to the laser-cutter. Unfortunately, these plans are lost in the ether. You will have to use your judgement with the box design. Access to a drill (or drill press) and a tap set help tremendously. I do not recommend you attempt to cut the smaller holes (3/32") with the laser-cutter - they should be drilled instead.

In the six images provided, seven box pieces are given. One piece is for a horizontal divider inside the box, which is used to stack the Raspberry Pi above the breadboard. Once all seven pieces were cut, the holes should be drilled to the appropriate pilot size and then tapped as noted on the diagrams. Note that the LCD's holes are missing from the face plate, and will need to be added.

Before assembling the sides and bottom, connect the pushbuttons and LCD to the front plate. After this, the four sides and bottom can be assembled using 1-Minute epoxy. I did not use epoxy on the top piece, since I like being able to open the box (hinges or clear tape are both would be a nice choice to connect the top).

Once the sides are assembled, the breadboard should be attached to the bottom using velcro. 1.25" standoffs should be added, then the center piece screwed into these. After connecting the ribbon cable, the Pi should be mounted to the smaller 0.325" standoffs and screwed in place. Secure the top, and the system is complete! Photos of the final product are given in the last step.
<p>This doesn't seem to have been updated in a long time... As it will hopefully help anyone else attempting this build, here is a link to the Adafruit Tutorial for their Raspberry Pi Pandora Radio build. The old Pianobar install instructions here, and elsewhere, don't work! Follow the Adafruit Tutorial's section on installing Pianobar and you'll be all set! Here is the link: https://learn.adafruit.com/pi-wifi-radio/raspberry-pi-setup-1-of-3</p>
<p>Thanks for the updated link - I have not touched this instructable in nearly 2 years, so it's bound to be pretty outdated. Unfortunately I have not spent much time with the RPI lately.</p><p>I've stickied your comment for visibility. Hope the project went well for you!</p>
<p>Thanks! It did go very well. I made a PCB version of your breadboard setup and had all the parts on order but they took so long to get here that I went with the Adafruit kit as a part of my project.(Hint: It's not JUST a radio.) I'll still have to make another using your setup since I basically have all the wiring done... My project will be up on Instructables in a week or two. It's a bit of a different approach but I think you'll enjoy it! I've linked back here in it and gave you a bunch of credit for the inspiration!</p>
Can someone explain to me the point of using 5v and a regulator to get to 3.3v when there is a 3.3v supply from the pi. I am fairly new to this stuff and am just trying to learn. Thanks.
That's a really good question. The answer has to do with the current limit on the Raspberry Pi's 3.3V line. According to the link below, the 3.3V line can output up to 50 milliamps current. Meanwhile, the 3.3V LCD module I used can draw up to 60 mA.<br> <br> While LCD may never draw that full 60 mA, it has the potential to cause issues. Since the 5V supply can supply over 300 mA (when using a 1A power supply), I chose to add the 3.3V regulator. &nbsp;<br> <br> RPi electrical specs:&nbsp;<a href="http://elinux.org/RPi_Low-level_peripherals" rel="nofollow">http://elinux.org/RPi_Low-level_peripherals</a><br>
Could i get an estimate of the cost? i really would like to do this project, and i am a beginner..
This depends on what equipment you already have. For example, I already had soldering equipment, drill and tap set, standoffs, SD card, and resistors. I'll give some prices for the bigger items: <br> <br>Raspberry Pi: $35 + shipping <br>Power Supply: $8 + shipping <br>T-Cobbler: $8 + shipping <br>Serial LCD Monitor: $25 + shipping <br>Buttons: $7 <br>Acrylic Sheets: $8 <br>Epoxy: $5 <br>Capacitors: $2 <br>Velcro: $5 <br> <br>The small things tended to add up quickly - like the bits I had to get from Radioshack and Lowes (buttons, capacitors, velcro, etc). I probably could have gotten some things much cheaper online, but I didn't have the patience to wait for the velcro to ship. All the parts were around $110 with shipping - but since I plan on reusing most of the stuff for future projects, the cost felt reasonable. <br> <br>Hope that helps.
thats very helpful thanks <br>
Note: On the box plans, the center piece has an issue with the spacing of the raspberry pi's holes. If you are making the same box, double check the holes (I don't have the original files to correct the images...)
<p>Very nice and interesting work</p>
<p>Its useful :)<br></p>
<p>Would anybody be interested in my version? I made it using Python only (no Bash) it works using only 3 buttons and 2 LEDs and a motion sensor (no screen). Total cost is around $45 US including the Raspberry, a pack of LEDs, a pack of resistors, female to female jumper wires and an empty Tea Box. </p>
<p>Hey Jay - I'd be really interested to see your software! Do you have it on a repo?</p>
<p>very helpful thanks</p>
<p>Thats outstanding</p>
<p>Good one</p>
<p>Great one</p>
<p>If anyone is interested I did a PCB layout for the buttons and attachment to the LCD screen. A lot more work than using a breadboard but it saves space and doesn't tie up your breadboard in the process. Send me a message if you want the file! </p><p>R1-R7 are 10K</p><p>R8-R13 are 1K</p><p>I'm going to try etching it with the toner transfer method. We'll see if it takes...</p>
<p>very good</p>
<p>Thats awesome</p>
<p>This looks really cool, but I don't have access to a place to get the housing. Could it be, say, 3D printed? Then a company like Shapeways (or a friend with a 3D printer) could make the model. What would be involved in making that into a model?</p>
<p>Its useful :)</p>
<p>The apt-get version of pianobar is out of date I believe, which is the reason it doesn't work. You'll have to install from github</p>
<p>Pretty neat project. I added an Adafruit 20W stereo amp and a couple scavenged speakers from an old iHome iPod dock that died. Now I just need a case.</p><p>Thanks!</p>
<p>Question for a beginner :</p><p>Can someone tell me if this lcd module could work instead of the Sparkfun :</p><p><a href="http://www.amazon.fr/MODULE-AFFICHEUR-16X2-ECRAN-RETRO-ECLAIRE/dp/B00AT8KGF2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408520724&sr=8-1&keywords=module+lcd#productDetails" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.fr/MODULE-AFFICHEUR-16X2-ECRAN-R...</a></p>
<p>Its magnificent</p>
<p>Its sweet</p>
<p>Its cooler</p>
<p>Extremely good</p>
<p>Its splendid :)</p>
<p>Thats impressive</p>
<p><br>Very good<br></p>
<p>Its awe-inspiring :)</p>
<p><br>Its stunning :)<br></p>
<p>Could i get an estimate of the cost?</p>
<p><br>Thats trendy...<br></p>

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