Step 8: Make the lamp holder

You must be aware this step is a bit dangerous. Life threatening voltages and fire danger will be present if not done correctly.

Strip the wire. After that, attach the wire with the wire nuts using a screwdriver. Use this prosess in both sides of the wire.
<p>Awesome project. I have two ideas to improve it. Try it with a low wattage normal (wolfram fibre) bulb, 15 or 25 watts, and wire a serial diode on it. The light will be orange and dimmer, because the semiconductor will halve the period of the household power, and it will even blink a bit because of the halved frequency. My other idea is a neon lamp starter serially, which will work as a random trigger, to blink ghostly the bulb. The two plus parts can be builded as a complex system, you can use both of them in one lamp.</p>
That sounds like a neat idea! What bugs me a little is the use of the neon lamp starter, since it's made to create impedance on a neon bulb, an average bulb shouldn't take too long to power up and the blink would probably be too quick to notice or to feel right. Let alone the randomness. Have you ever tried this before?
<p>Well, the starter is a very interesting part. As I know, its purpose is not exactly to create impedance, but to make some short impulse into the serial coil, because this &quot;kick&quot; will cause a very high voltage induction via the coil, which is important to start the ignition of the main fluorescent neon tube (that's why its name is &quot;starter&quot;). But without a coil its impedance (or exactly: resistance) is very high, even when it emits a dim halo-like light effect around its electrodes inside - if the voltage reached about 60-70 volts or more. The starter is in this situation just a bimetal switch that trigs on when became warm by the electroluminescent phenomenon inside, but with this moment it makes a short circuit inside for the el.lum. current, thus the electrodes go cold, the bimetall releases, the el.lum. effect raises again... and so on. </p><p>In fact the starter is a simple oscillator, but, since its working is founded on e.l. effects and the heat expansion, its periodicity is not so exact; thus it is a good tool to be used for a very simple randomized triggering effect - like in a ghost lamp. And - of course - I have tried it, you can find an instructable based on this effect by me [http://www.instructables.com/id/Necronomicon-Lamp/], but when I was a kid, we always made small lamps like this to have own disco lights. No risk (or no more than the usual ones when you work with household power), easy and nice. Try it bravely, but don't forget to insulate!</p><p>Since I'm not a native speaker, I named this part (the starter) 'neon glow ignition' in that neclamp instru, because I was not sure its correct name in english, but the effect and purpose is the same. And... sorry, if I was not fluent enough in English, it's not so easy to write about special things like this...:-)</p>
<p>Wow, thanks for the nice exposition! I thought the starter was the <br>whole thing, coil included, which is where the impedance builds up, I <br>think. Also, that's a cool 'ible you made there, I might try this soon <br>enough, just for the fun of it. </p><p>Don't mind the language. I'm a <br>non-native speaker myself, so I get your feelings, but you are more than <br> good enough to get the message across ;).</p>
<p>Yes, that's why I was confused with the correct expression of the starter. In Hungary we call it &quot;neon light tube ignition fuse&quot;, which sounds better and shorter in Hungarian; but some people call it (translated, of course) simply as &quot;neon-ignition&quot;. What you need for this lamps is only the small capsule inside the glass bulb (and the attached capacitor, which is for the filtering of the sparkle noises in the radio frequencies when the starter is working.)</p><p>Nowadays the electronic starters are to outplace this traditional parts from the technology, but these are very sophisticated and interesting old elements of the analog world...</p>
<p>And an appendix... I forgot to write, when I tried it, it was good until 60 watts - if the household power is 230 volts. At lower hh. voltage for this power the system must drive higher current, but - as I mentioned before - a 25 watts bulb is ok. The starters can survive cca. 05 ampers, sometimes more. The (average) triggering period depends on the wattage of the bulbs.</p>

About This Instructable




Bio: I'm a physics student. I like to build stuff and learn about electronics.
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