Inspired by the elegant, beautifully realized work of Shigeru Ban (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shigeru_Ban), I put this table together out of cardboard tubes and corrugated plastic.  The frame is triangulated out of the tubes that come at the center of rolls of paper for architectural plotters.  Each tube is an inch and a half in diameter and three feet long.  They are incredibly strong, if loaded linearly, straight down their length -- each can support the weight of an adult with no problem.  However, if laid flat between two supports and loaded in the middle, the tubes will buckle and fail.  
     The trick, then, is to find a structure that takes advantage of that strength while retaining some visual delicacy.  Mr. Ban has experimented with several ways of joining his tubes, and, following his research,  I chose to bolt through with quarter-inch bolts, which is simple, straightforward, and strong.  The top is made from PolyGal, a corrugated industrial plastic used in architectural applications, such as greenhouses.  
     I salvaged all the tubes for free, as well as the plastic for the top; I spent maybe fifteen dollars on hardware, nuts, washers, etc.  The table was built with simple hand tools -- drill, hacksaw, wrench, and screwdriver.  It took about ten to fifteen hours to make.  It is strong enough to stand on, yet light enough to lift with one hand, and one hundred percent recyclable at the end of its life.

Step 1: The "X"

     Start with the two tubes that will make the "X" directly underneath the table top.  Mark a centerline on each, then push them together and scribe a circle from a third tube.  Using a hacksaw to start the cut, carve out two saddle notches with a sharp box cutter.  The advantage of using a hacksaw is the fine teeth on the blade don't catch and tear the cardboard like a handsaw made for wood.  Clamp together at the middle and drill a hole slightly bigger than the bolts you are using through the exact center of each notch.  1/4" bolts are sufficient, maybe even too big.
     I also reinforced the notches by gluing a scrap of tube on the inside of each notch.  This isn't strictly necessary, but be forewarned that once you take a big chunk out of the middle of the tube, they are likely to bend and crease when handled if you aren't careful.  Treat them gently until bolted together.
     Lay one of the "X" tubes with two full tubes as legs coming off from it as shown in the last picture.  Cut two short, 18" braces for the legs, each with a 3" slot in both ends.  Move the tubes around on the floor until the angles look ok; the goal is to have the end of the legs come slightly past the end of the "X" piece.  This provides a wide enough stance for stability while maximizing knee and leg space for the user.
awesome idea!!.. in indonesia, there is a lots cylinder cardboard on trash and it's never recycled.. i'll gonna make your design a lot <br> <br>thank you bro
wonderful design
&nbsp;wouldnt it be easier to ust use four legs..<br /> <br /> the cylinder form should be strong enogh<br /> <br />
amazing !!!<br />
Very interesting and creative. but I <span class="short_text" id="result_box"><span style="background-color: rgb(235,239,249);" title="Se ve que no tienes chicos peque&ntilde;os...">see that you don't have small children ...</span></span>
That's cool!!!!!!!&nbsp;&nbsp; :)

About This Instructable




Bio: Furniture hacker. Author of Guerilla Furniture Design, out now. Find me on Twitter and Instagram @objectguerilla.
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