Introduction: Paperduino Tiny

Build Arduino compatible board on piece of paper.

Paperduino Tiny is very cheap and easy to build Arduino compatible board with USB and software compatible with Digispark board.

Paperduino Tiny include an ATtiny85 microcontroller and come with USB interface. Coding is similar to Arduino, and it use the familiar Arduino IDE for development.

Can be build in 1 hour for aprox. 4 USD.

Support for the Arduino IDE 1.0+ (OSX/Win/Linux)
Power via USB or External Source - 5V
Built-in USB (and serial debugging)
6 I/O Pins (2 are used for USB only if your program actively communicates over USB, otherwise you can use all 6 even if you are programming via USB)
8k Flash Memory (about 6k after bootloader)
I2C and SPI (vis USI)
PWM on 3 pins (more possible with Software PWM)
ADC on 4 pins
Power LED and Test/Status LED (on Pin1)

NEW - Paperduino Tiny build in case from Tic Tac mints - look to the pictures...

Getting started

Tools needed

Parts needed

Burning bootloader

Building Paperduino Tiny step by step

Installing Arduino IDE

My first sketch

Complete tutorial can be found in Paperduino WIKI.

Please vote for me in Arduino Contest. Thanks...


deguich made it!(author)2017-05-12

Paperduino WIKI offline ?

jjsims made it!(author)2015-04-24

am looking forward to making this. am new to the arduino world, but want to give it a shot.

bill2009 made it!(author)2015-01-18

Wow - excellent!

bigwcharly made it!(author)2014-04-28

Hi. Thanks for this nice project.

I was wondering why you chose to use 3v6 zener diodes and actually if they are necessary at all? Is this to clean the USB signal or is there another reason? Many thanks!

ok1cdj made it!(author)2014-04-28

The USB datalines are in 3.3 V logic level. Zener diodes can limit the output voltage on D+ and D-. We recommend 3.6 V low power types, those that look like 1N4148 (usually 500 mW or less). Low power types are required because they have less capacitance and thus cause less distortion on the data lines. And 3.6 V is better than 3.3 V because 3.3 V diodes yield only ca. 2.7 V in conjunction with an 1.5 kΩ (or more exactly 10 kΩ) pull-up resistor. With 3.3 V diodes, the device may not be detected reliably.

bigwcharly made it!(author)2014-04-29

Thanks for your explanation. I've also found more information here about the need to pull the signal voltage to 3.3V:

Just for my understanding: Am I right that the capacitors serve to filter the supply voltage? I was also wondering why two capacitors are needed. I guess this has something to do with filtering different frequencies (e.g., the large cap filters out low frequencies, and the small one the high frequencies)?

ok1cdj made it!(author)2014-04-29

yes, you are right... You can remove the larger cap...

ok1cdj made it!(author)2014-04-10

Resistor R1, R5 connected to LEDs can be from 330 ohm to 1500 ohms.. I'm using 1500 ohms for simplicity. In circuit are used only 2 values of resistors. When you have 330 ohm the current throught LED will be higher than with 1500 ohms..

MakersBox made it!(author)2014-04-10

Are the values for the LED resistors (R1, R2) correct? I would expect 330 ohm.

ok1cdj made it!(author)2014-04-05

You can put your mods to wiki

The Wiki is open for collaborative editing!

dsur made it!(author)2014-04-05

Good idea, but why you not present all steps here in instructable?

Where can suggest some modification?

For example install piece of copper tubule in holes, and solder component ends to it. Also using electrically conductive ink.